From the ground, begin on Rocket Hero Brain Man and at the 5th bolt step left and continue traversing up steeper juggy terrain past seven more bolts, with crux moves at the top. Below the last three bolts there is a great no hands rest before the crux section (endurance finish on smaller holds).  Finishes on a spacious flat ledge.

Note:

hard/potentially dangerous to clean route if partner does not follow, serious pendulum potential.

Space Walk

Retrodeathblocking

See You Space Cowboy

Finger Zinger

Gumbies Will Find a Way

Cubicle Pukes and Cigars

Heart of Choss

Jet Fuel

Spring Fling

Solar Wind

Zero Gravity

Agonal Rhythm

Force Hucker

This is the approach to numerous upper pitches, it follows a left trending corner/ramp to a steep face which has several short glorious cracks to the left (no gear required).

Above the first bolt the climbing is easiest if you stay left of the bolt line. When you reach a bulge, clip a bolt and make a move to a big right hand pinch/sidepull which you can use to establish yourself in the short crack just above you. After surpassing the crack the difficulty eases up until you reach either anchor.

A wide crack that takes wide gear. This obvious line climbs surprisingly like a face route with some crack technique required towards the top. There are some questionable flakes in the middle which are cause for a heads up to your belayer. A single bolt protects a short rotten section as you move up and left to the final crack. Chain anchors atop a great stance.

One pitch off the ground and just right of Solar Wind, head up on easy terrain until you get to the crux of the route - a steep section with sloping pinches and side pulls and an overhanging budge of flakes which you crank on. Higher up there is a cool mantle using two horn-like projections. When you get to the last bolt it's easier to go left, or you can go straight up in an act of desperation.

A fun and interesting route.

A fun romp up sound rock with nice holds where you want them. A short but worthy route which can be lengthened by climbing past one more bolt to an anchor hidden on the upper left side of the tower (this extension is an easy way to set up a top rope the steep west face). Route gets morning to midday sun and goes into shade in the afternoon.

Historical note: the first ascensionist smashed his finger with the hammer on the FA, hence the name.

Don't let this overhanging route intimidate you, large friendly holds await and you can escape right to a rest when you really need it. For the finale, step left and bust one final move.

A great route for the grade!

Pitch 1, 5.9 *** Stem up a short detached pillar, protected by a bolt, then step across to the main wall. Climb up the face, staying left until you are eventually forced to make a short rightward traverse. From there it is easier climbing to the anchors. 25m

Pitch 2, 5.8**** Either pull an immediate mantle before clipping a bolt or traverse up and around to the right on easier but runout terrain. Climb up until you reach a short bulge which you surmount with a cool horn and brilliant incut jugs. Fun climbing! 20m

No choss on this route.

Currently a second pitch variation to Cubicle Pukes and Cigars. Traverse up and right from the anchors, keeping an eye out for a small pod that takes a finger sized cam. Head for the splitter crack on the left side of the roof. The jams are smooth and splitter, and there are good face holds as well.

Start on steep flakes and head up and left on an easier arete/ramp. When you reach a huge stance look for the bolt out right - clip it and follow the line of shiny things to the chains.

The feet are huge on this route, it also has some nice jug holds for the hands! A fun and scenic outing, gets late afternoon sun (photogenic from the approach trail on the ridge).

A second pitch to Jet Fuel, this well-bolted line climbs up the steepest and tallest section of the wall on good holds with short difficulties and frequent rests. Excellent movement and terrific rock quality, don't miss out on this one!

Climb up a deliciously knobby face until you break left onto a blunt arete. Once atop a ledge the line continues up and right - step over the void and head up fun terrain past two more bolts up progressively easier terrain to the anchors shared with Solar Wind.

At the start of the climb it is possible to stay right and avoid the arete, which makes the line a bit contrived but adds additional difficulty at 5.9+.

The start is easier than it looks. Trend up and left heading towards the skyline. Second pitch is fun and should be linked with the first pitch, but you need to be prepared to bring your second all the way up if you want to climb the pitch.

A belay bolt mediates the poor belay stance, but the belayer can also comfortably stand back towards the large rock away from the wall and have secure footing.

WARNING:

From the second anchors, rappel the route.

Do NOT

rappel straight down the fall line, a 70 meter rope will leave you 30 feet off the ground with exposed and dangerous down climbing on loose rock. A 60 meter rope would leave you dangling in space.

A low sustained crux starting right off the ground leads to enduro climbing to the top. Good crimps and cool movement.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Moon