A Long Island Classic! FA’d by “Nevada” Mike Pollina and crew after five straight weeks of work, you can’t help but love this line. THE Wildwood testpiece.

 Start sitting using two angled crimps (the lower one is a start hold for 'Naked Man Ass'). Work your way right and up the angled feature via gnarly laybacks and some crazy foot beta.

 The rock is a little grainy in spots, but the movement more than makes up for it.

Drunken Sailor

Naked Man Ass

heel hook and hope

Hillside Strangler

Man In The Boat

Beach Life

Left Butt Cheek

Bite Size

Drunken Sailor Stand

Postal

Delivery

Parachute Landing Fall

Start standing with both hands matched on a juggy sidepull/hueco feature at 6 feet. Power up right on a knobby gaston and finish up just right of the scoop on grainy holds.A bit chossy on the upper part, but overall a decent line with interesting movement and some unique holds.

Originally called V5, I don’t think anybody sitting at the base of this and trying to slap that hueco would disagree with the upgrade. Start sitting with the left hand in a small pocket and right hand on a good edge at 3 feet (same edge as utilized on 'Drunken Sailor'). Find the key feet and slap to the large hueco. For the full value, do a committing top out straight up, avoiding the large crystal on 'Man In The Boat'.It's also possible to climb this into 'Left Butt Cheek' for a slightly different variation.A fun problem with a hard lock off. This has also been done from a slightly lower start, by starting matched on the two angled crimps/edges at 3 feet, which adds a some difficulty, but is a bit scrunched at the start!

Sit start from an obvious hold to a bad crimp.

Start sitting, as for 'Postal', with both hands matched on an obvious jug shelf at 3.5 feet. Make a powerful move left to an incredible pinch and use it to gain a good incut. Finish out directly above or move right to finish as for 'Postal'.

 A brilliant power testpiece with some of the coolest holds around. Another Long Island classic and possibly the best problem at Wildwood.

Start standing, as for 'The Crescent', with the left hand on a crimp sidepull at 5 feet and the right hand on a low incut sidepull at 3.5 feet. But, rather than heading right, climb straight up the bulge on sidepulls. A large move gains a slopey, but easy top out. 

 A bit contrived, but good climbing.

Start standing, as for 'Man In The Boat', with both hands matched on a juggy sidepull/hueco feature at 6 feet. Move left via a long lockoff to a slopey top out.

 Perhaps a bit contrived, but an interesting variation.

Start squatting with both hands matched on an edge at 4.5-5 feet. Bump the right hand up to an incut a foot above and fire for the lip. Top out left or right. Same grade either way.Short, but somewhat fun.

Start standing with both hands matched on juggy sidepull at 6 feet. Use the large hole/hueco to top out directly above or a bit to the right.

 In my opinion, the rock quality isn't quite as good on this one as on some of the other lines on the boulder.

Start sitting with both hands matched on a jug shelf at 3.5 feet. Move right to a large sloper and use it to gain a good incut above. Head towards a large slot jug at the lip and finish out easily. 

 Very powerful movement on a cool assortment of holds. A Long Island classic and one of the best problems at Wildwood.

Start standing on the left arete with the left hand on a crimp sidepull at 5 feet and the right hand on an incut sidepull at 3.5 feet. Move right on an interesting assortment of holds to reach a large crescent shaped hold. Fire up to a jug and finish out easily. You can also continue this further right topping out just left of 'Bite Size' to add a bit more pump and increase the difficulty slightly. A classic problem for the area and a great warm up.You can also start standing with both hands matched on the crescent shaped hold and head straight up from there. This is around v0+ and is also worthwhile.

Start standing with both hands on opposing sidepulls at 5.5-6 feet. Climb the tall slab.A techy little line and a fun change from the rest of the climbing here.This line can also be done from a sit at around v5/6. The sit actually add a few tricky moves and is worth doing if you've climbed most of the other lines here.

This area contains one of the best single blocks on Long Island and a couple of smaller blocks that hold a couple of additional problems. These boulders are set in a beautiful beech forest, perched high on a bluff overlooking the Long Island Sound. A few large pads should be suitable for most of the problems in this area.  

  Be on the lookout for ticks in this area, as its prime habitat for them.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Bluff Boulders