This route is below the Cave wall.  It is on the left of trail going up.  There are two boulders that almost touch. It is an arete with a ledge to the right of it.

The problem starts sitting in the overhang.  There is a small crack.  It moves up to the prominent hold on the arete.  Move your hands up using the two crimps on your left and the arete for your right hands.  The topout is pretty easy.

Prowerful Arete

Surfer's Paradise

Dingus

Little Devil

Gold Digger

This problem is on the Falls Trail near the waterfall on the west side of the creek.  Approach from the car is 5 minutes or less.

This strenuous problem begins with a sit down start.  Sidepull your way up the pumpy and continuous arete on dicey feet until you can dyno for the lip.  Once at the lip, the secondary crux is topping out on the exposed boulder.

I thought about putting a bolt below the lip to protect the secondary crux, but decided against it...in its current state, Little Devil offers quite a mental and physical challenge.

This route is below the Cave Wall.  It is on the left of trail going up.  There are two boulders that almost touch. This is the long boulder on the left with all the moss on it.

The route starts on two pockets then moves up to two more pockets.  Stretch right to a small crimpy cobble, then move up to a large jug and topout.  The topout is hairy because of all the gravel on it.

Start in an small, undercling crack and move up to double crimps for each hand, then jump or reach for the hold above.  This is the "official" finish of the route  Continue up, or just come do

This problem is about 50 feet left of the Peaches and Cream Crack.  It starts on a cobble jug about 2 feet off the ground.  Move up to a pocket with a rock in the middle of it, then move left into a two finger pocket.  Reach for the big hold to your right and match to get to a broken cobble crimp.  Slap up to a sloping ramp to your left with your right hand.  Move under a small overhang and up to the right of a small crack with a jug.  Finish with a champagne....

Description

Protection

Routes in Miscellaneous Castlewood Boulder problems