This is the first ascent on the Southeast Face and takes the obvious crack up the middle. We removed as much large/dangerous choss as we could, but caution is still warranted. This is a really fun route with 4 roofs, each of which you pass on the right. We did not place any bolts or pins on this climb. Route finding is fairly easy. It looks like you can skip the crux pitch with a Class 4 ridge; however, we have not verified this.

P0: 5.easy. If you approach from Abyss Trail, you will need to climb one of the bonus pitches to reach the starting ledge.

P1: 5.6, 40 meters. It is mostly 4th Class with a few distinct cruxes, the hardest being 5.6.

P2: 5.9-, 40 meters, PG-13. Climb two roofs with big airy moves on good holds. The crux moves are exposed and well-protected. The grade eases up on the second half, but pro becomes sparse.

P3: 5.10+, 40 meters. There is an option at the base of this pitch to follow a Class 4 ridge up to the right. Follow the wide dihedral on the left to the large roof, exiting on the right side. Above the roof the climbing is balancy and sustained. Protection can be a little run out but not as bad as pitch 2.

P4: 5.6, 40 meters. Some interesting moves are thrown into easier climbing. Follow up to the peak of the wall.

The walkoff: after reaching the top of the climb, you follow a Class 3/4 ridge for several hundred feet until reaching the Mt. Bierstadt - East Ridge Trail. From here, you can hike back down through the valley or go for the summit of Mt. Bierstadt. We highly recommend going for the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Southeast Face