Startup the dirty slab gully and head straight up the headwall through the dihedral leading to the roof.  Technical face climbing leads to the chains.  An 80m will almost get you to the ground.  tie a knot.

White Spider

Dancing With the Wind

Gold Fever

Eastside Elixir

Hole in the Wall

Just Chillin'

Warm Up

Goldielocks

Proud Arete

P1) Awesome slabby face climb following a seamlike feature. End at a 3 bolt anchor. Retrobolted in summer of 09, now a sport route. 12a, 60'.

P2) Very good, bouldery steep face climbing on great holds leads to a finger crack up high. 12a, 60'

This route could probably be done as one long pitch, but we broke it down into two.

P1 - Begin by the obvious short finger crack with a bolt beneath it.  Do a couple of interesting moves to clip the first bolt, motor up the finger crack (optional finger-sized cam), and then follow bolts to anchors.

P2 - Go up and slightly left, following a crack system and bolts to an anchor.  LO or rap to P1 and then rap to ground.

The obvious arete on the left side of the Gold Wall. Very fun slabby face and arete climbing with a couple of small roof pulls. Good technical warmup.

Awesome mixed face and crack climbing. Only gets 2 stars in he book but so far it's my favorite route in the area. Take an easy approach on the left or a bolted 10a pitch on the right. You can lead it in a long single pitch if you start on the left and are mindfull of roap drag but I recommend doing it in 2 pitches. Also be mindfull of some loose rock. From the P1 ledge you can lower the 2nd to the ground with a 70 then rap.

Sequential start on small side pulls and crimps to a big move to a horizontal and physical traverse on a rail. One more big move towards the top. Nice movement on this dead vertical face prancer.

Crack and face moves up the middle of the slab. Difficulties are usually around bolts and are well protected. An obvious flake marks the start of this climb that is longer than it looks.

Apparently there are two pitches following the first, but I only did the first. They are described as Pitch 2: 5.8 and Pitch 3: 5.9, both protected similarly to the first pitch.

According to some big shot master of old five ten moderates, the rest of the beta is as follows:

70m rope IS mandatory.

the first pitch is by far the best/most fun, the second pitch is fair, the third pitch has 15' of really fun climbing the rest is fair.

left anchor bolt (1/2') on p2 has a loose nut. no, finger tightening doesn't do much.

p3 anchor is strangely high off a perfect ledge

it's a full 35m rap from the top of p3 to the top of p1. knot ends on rope!

there is a bunch of loose stuff (lying around, not necessarily the stuff you're climbing) on the 2nd and 3rd pitch (watch rope) 1

This is the nicely bolted and extremely fun route with varied movement immediately right of 'Warm Up' on the far left slab of Gold Wall (see pic).  Follow lieback crack and flakes to nice face moves and a mussy anchor.

The grade really depends on how one climbs the bottom part of the route: go out left toward 'Warm Up' and it is easier, stay true to the crack/flake right of bolts and it'll be a little harder.

This route may actually be a retrobolt of 'Goldie Locks,' although it seems that line is slightly more to the right according to Marty's guide.

Awesome fun mixed crack/face/arete route, great warmup for the steeper stuff on the Tioga Cliff. This route was retrobolted summer of 09 and quite safe. Starts with a single bolt below a finger crack, climbs the short finger crack, then busts out awesome moves onto the nice arete above.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Gold Wall