Start on the obvious crack that splits the boulder, eventually leaving the crack for crimps, and and ending jug at the top leftmost part of the boulder.

O.D.B

The Brain

Monkeys Paw

Kung Foo Hand

S.O.B

Brain Drain

Matter Over Mind

Lizard King

Stand start on small crimps. Follow bad slopers up the arete to a good hold on the left face. Continue up arete to jug a top.

This is a very infamous Bozoo heady test piece.  A bit headier if you are on the short side. Climb the low angle slab to reach "The Brain" make a long move above the braing from a painful finger-lock to the jug at the apex of the boulder.  Tall technical and commiting (18').  Crux at end.

British Mike nearly left his index finger in the finger lock after his foot slipped.  The blood that oozed out of that hold and down the face intimidated interested climbers for years afterward.  The bone deep cut healed, and I believe he came back and sent a while later.

Stand start on left crimp and right hand good sloping edge (looks recently broken). Fire up and right to a good horizontal, then straight up to the right corner of a protruding triangular hold, top out.  SDS goes at V5/6.

A real high-ball! Stand start in the angleing crack then move left to good edges at about 7ft up. Dynamic, or long moves leads to very cruxy slopers right at the top. The second crux right at the end makes it very very real problem.

SDS on good crimpers move up and a little left and up on terrible slopers.

SDS on good crimps move straight left to a good crimp in a small shallow pod. Fall into a right hand side pull, work the feet up and do a right hand cross through throw to a great sloper. Top out easily.

Stand start using a series on three slopey wide dishes that traverse up and right. Continue up and right into easier top out terrain.  Ticky SDS ups the grade to ???

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Brain Boulder