This is probably the best 5.12 at Chatfield, one of the best 5.12's in CT, and maybe even in New England. The route has amazing holds that change in form as you progress up the route: small crimps, angular pinches, a pocket, huge pillow slopers, to huge roof jugs. Start on the Forearm Frenzy crack and cut immediately left to a good jug hold and then start up the crimps in the overhanging wall. Steady 5.10+ crimping leads to a technical foot intensive boulder problem with a big reach left to a angular pinch. This move is followed by another boulder problem with a big reach to a pin scar pocket and a big jug. Once you have gained the overhanging sloper pillows, and a good hold, climb out the amazing, severely overhanging roof.  

  A New England classic.

 Video: youtu.be/3r9xh8AfkTI

  Video: youtube.com/watch?v=A_Ge-98…

Shape Shifter

Its Own Spirit

Summer

Don't do it Hank's way

Clark Bar Crack

Captain Moonlite

Lisa's Layback

Dyno Problem

Marmalade

Jungle Face

Steep Steps

Tokyo Rose

Gneiss Face

The Cold Vein

Exposed

Spider

The Mudskipper

Food Pyramid

Twilight Singer

Kilometer Variation

We Don't Toprope

Edgy

Trickery

Fear The Wolf

Tickery

Super Slab

Sirius

Crooked Stilo

The Sleep Walker

Forearm Frenzy

Modern Collective

Ridiculoid

Pisces

Magic Central

The Bloody Beetroots

Super Vivid

Psycho Javelin

Silver Wings

Kyles Corner

The Anarchist

Zeitgeist

Kiddy Crack

Jolt or Not to Bolt (aka Noriega)

Wallow In The Hollow

Kiddy Slab

Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct

Blinded By The Puss

This route is basically an extension, alternative exit, variation to Shape Shifter.  Climb the first 5 bolts of Shape Shifter and cut left past two bolts going out a roof of massive holds then make a big move left to an anchor.

Start on the Hollow Head Crew and finish on Zeitgiest.  Very good climbing and a bit more pumpy than going up the crack.  Links really fun sections of climbing.

Starts on a smiley face rail to the right of super vivid. climb past a gaston, pinch, and huge jug reaching the tall topout(same as for super vivid).  

youtu.be/N2_zUaGuydQ

Nice crack with features, good pro, a little excitement pulling past the dihedrial roof, top 1/3 is usually dirty, finish left (easier) or continue up the right face.

Climb the right facing corner up the obvious crack system. Many variations are possible to spice up the action. The crux is near the top, typical of Chatfield.

Starting 10ft right of Kyle's Corner, climb sloping arete up past diagonal crack (gear) on good holds past a bolt to a mantle move to gain the main ledge 15ft up (cam for directional is helpful down low). Starting at a good pocket up and left continue up the slightly overhanging face using good holds and small crimpers to the gain the lip and anchor. Good dynamic climbing on great holds. Many thanks to Ryan and Shylo for making this route happen! 

  Named after: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capta…

Follows the left-facing dihedral on the far right side of the Super Slab face.  Jugs and easy layback moves on the steeper start; then cruise the upper slab to the chain anchor.

Climb the horizontals then dyno from the last one to the top. I haven't latched it, but I've done it with the intermediate. WAY FUN! 

  With the intermediate I'd give it a 5.11+, but skipping the small crimp intermediate makes it so much more fun!

Finger crack to the left of Wallow in the Hollow. Moves off the ground are the crux. Hard cranking on finger locks will lead you to jugs on slightly overhanging face. The gear is good.

Start up the small, right-facing flakes between Clark Bar and P&H. Crux move up to deep horizontal crack. Traverse slightly left to underneath trapezoidal cutout, and then angle up and right on horizontal ledges to the top. Dirty topout.

Short arrete to the right of Sirius aka Wall of Light.

Do the start to Bloody Beet Roots and climb up 4 bolts then cut left across Cold Vein.  From here keep cutting left past another two bolts into the last bolt of Psycho Jap.  Finish as per Psycho Jap.  A nice endurance climb on good holds compared to the other 5.12's which are mostly very crimp intensive.

Climb a line just right of the bolted anchor, using a long 45-degree angled ledge about halfway up.

This amazing climb starts just to the left of the Bloody Beet Roots arete.  The route climbs the sheer, blank looking wall on small crimps right up the center of the cleanest section of wall just left of the obvious arete.  The route basically boils down to a hard boulder problem after clipping the second bolt and then immediately goes into another harder crimpy boulder problem after clipping the third bolt.  After the small roof enjoy the relatively mellow romp to the anchor. 

  Crimpy with a few powerful moves, technical feet.  A Connecticut classic. 

  Video: 

youtu.be/WhxJ6UXuXM4

 

Delicate climbing on the inside face of a corner that starts low-angle and gets steeper.  Crux at the top.  Bring your balance! 

  According to the Falcon Guide if you use the arete on the left the route is 5.8+.

Nice climb alternating jugs and crimps, exciting topout with a tricky mantle. Climb the crack straight up for a 5.9 move or find the hidden crimpy pocket for a 5.7 crux.

Business right off the ground, a few hidden jugs, but don't get sucked right. Different variations but climb from the right facing corner on the face follow the features left to a good mantle past a small ledge go up and leftish from there to the big ledge. 4th class up past the tree to the trail.

The leaning arete and face right of Kiddy Corner.  Use the right arete and make technical moves over the Kiddy Corner slab to the top.  Technical feet.

Pull through small roof and continue up via a steep wall with good horizontal holds.   

  Exit with a mantle to left (easier) or top it out directly.   

  Short but sweet

Was a top rope climb named Petty Face that never got climbed much, just right of Marmalade.  It has now been rediscovered and not climbed on TR.  Climb up an arete and small corner to a face with two bolts.  After a tricky edge section place a small cam in a horizontal and go to an anchor.

The boulder problem variation to the "Dyno Problem".  Instead of starting up the obvious horizontals for the Dyno Problem, start down and right in a beautiful small right facing corner.  Squeeze the arete, kneebar our the steep wall, and then go into the massive horizontals and finish up on the edges.  If you do it right,  you won't have to Dyno at all. 

  Video: 

youtu.be/sO-nEJB9U7w

 

Well, okay, sometimes we do. But we didn't that day!

 Not a classic, but something else for others who, like us, have climbed everything at Chatfield more times than they can count.

 Route Description:

 Facing the cliff, around the right of the arete to the right of Forearm Frenzy is a short dihedral corner, overhanging to its left and kind of dirty. At the top and just to the left of the corner are a couple of ledges about 15 feet up. Start in the corner, climb up the dihedral until you can step over left and pull yourself onto the ledge about 15 feet up. Follow a very small "ramp" onto a first, proper ledge. (5.5)

 Above the set of ledges is a short vertical face about 7 feet tall. Once on the first ledge, tend left and get on top of a second ledge a few feet higher (there's a prominent horizontal crack just above this ledge). From here, traverse out left until near the edge of the arete and then go straight up the face on its left side, which means surmounting the short vertical section using crimpers and a high step, to find yourself below a very easy slab. (crux, 5.6/5.6+) (The crux feels surprisingly exposed and committing for so short and otherwise easy of a climb.)

 From there, stroll up very easy, Super Slab-like terrain to the top-out, where a number of gear anchor options await you. (5.2)

Stay left on the Super Slab face and traverse slightly left under the roof and past/above the tree growing out of the middle ledge.  Stem through the bulge (crux) with good horizontal cracks to pull on.  Cruise up (and right) to the chain anchor.

Start with a high reach to two good crimps. Crossover left hand to a slopey hold and adjust feet for a gaston reach out right to a good hold - first placement can be found just above this hold.

The obvious corner left of Trad Crack.  Bring a few cams to protect the start and climb past three bolts to a set of anchors.  Awkward moves in a corner.  FEAR THE WOLF!!!!  This route is named for a DJ from Clinton Connecticut. soundcloud.com/fearthewolf

Of the two parallel cracks, this climb ascends the one on the right.  You will also find some features to use on the face to the right of the crack.  To start, reach up high to place your first piece, and boulder out the hard start through the roof.  Continue up sustained jams to a few good face holds before the ledge.  Another move or two from the ledge will get you to the bolted anchor.

A great slab route! 

  Start off the ground at the obvious crack, place some pro and scramble up to the ledge then continue up the sloping holds and smears to the crux undercling move that is easier if taller, the pro after the half-way point is sparse, but you won't fall unless a bear tackles you.

Short, sustained, somewhat pumpy natural line with a good mix of techniques and a steep, slightly boulder-y finish.

Startup TRad Crack placing medium-sized cams then lip traverse left.  Climb out onto the end of Fear the Wolf.  Save some gas for the end.  A short mixed climb with fun movement.  Came out better than expected. 

Upgraded so it can be done on lead.  Climb the obvious sharp arete just to the right of Wallow in the Hallow.  Starts on jugs and goes up the steep arête to the last bolt, 4 bolts total.  Very cool holds and moves.  Then at last bolt at the top cut left utilizing some pockets and great edges and finish up at a set of anchors.  As always top out for the full effect!!

More overhanging then it looks! 

  Start on the biggest wall at the bottom of a right diagonal crack that has huge jugs and handjams, layback your way up the crack to gain the horizontal, once here traverse right 15 ft then find your way up the cruxy part to the top , a real full-value climb! Dont forget your small cams for the crux.  

A powerful and pumpy route.  This climb maybe much harder for shorter climbers.  This route requires a lot of core and shoulder strength and then the endurance to hold on.  Start up the crimpy Hollow Head Crew start past three bolts, traverse left across forearm to the first bolt of Zeitgeist, make the big move up to the pinch and match. Then make a technical and big move left into Shape Shifter connecting with that routes 5th bolt and finish on that route out the roof. 

  Video: 

youtu.be/AAxX_GgacY8

 

A ridiculous, but fun link up to add to the circuit. Start up Forearm Frenzy placing a few cams with long runners, cut left into the Modern Collective/Magic Central boulder problem, into the top part of Shape Shifter, into the Silver Wing roof variation exit.

Rarely climbed, but excellent!  This is basically a harder and more direct variation of Forearm Direct.Go up to the crimp rail and instead of cutting left to the huge hanging jug, cut right on sloping crimps and then finish on Forearm Finishes.

This is the chatfield mega link-up. Starts on a jug rail on the roof around the corner of the far right side of the cliff. climbs past bolts to the anchors of Silverwings. This route combines moves of Blinded by the puss, Pices, Zeitgeist, Shapeshifter, and Silverwings.  

  This is one of the best endurance routes in the state and requires power, endurance, and technique. who knows if the grade is correct.....

Right most arete on the Psycho Jap wall.  A steep bouldery, core intensive, start leads to jugs and largest hold on the cliff (the Root) that you can sit on, knee bar, leg jam..  Continue up the arete on large holds to a tricky reach and mantle to an anchor with hidden pockets near it.  A good and probably easier variation is to cut left at the 4th bolt and finish up on the last bolt of "Cold Vein" immediately to the left.  This is the "Death Crew 77" variation that has a really neat pocket hold and nice holds to clip the anchor.  

youtu.be/vNO8ItNQBFQ

 

Overhanging face, 15' left of marmalade, just left of the obvious right facing corner system on the beautifully featured overhanging face over the trail.  

  Video: youtu.be/sO-nEJB9U7w

Start by soloing up the obvious easy corner in the middle of the "Psycho Jap" wall. Stick clip the first bolt and boulder on to the start under the low roof to reach a huge jug.  The initial start is much harder if you are short.  From the huge jug just over the low roof launch into a finger intensive boulder problem into big holds again.  From the big holds in the middle go to the last bolt.  From here either go right and top out on jugs and walk around to the anchor (easy) or launch left and commit to a difficult topout boulder problem right near the anchor.  Don't worry your protection is at or just below your feet and the fall is safe.   

  Video: 

youtube.com/watch?v=ncqFNgC…

 

Good stemming action to the crux where you haul over to the left facing corner jug-fest. Then back to the right face to top out, lots of fun- great beginner's route.

This route starts to the left of Psycho Jap in a obvious corner just right of the Captain Moonlight start.  It starts off in a nice and mellow corner and then eventually turns into a nasty trail of small nickel edge sized crimps up a slightly overhanging wall.  Bring one small cam for the bottom.  Crimpy and intense on the skin.  The route finishes on the technical, exciting, and slopey finish of Psycho Jap.  Ryan fell off the top out twice before sending.  

  This is probably the hardest climb at Chatfield Hollow.

Follow the first half of the Z crack placing gear along the way. Then follow the left part of the crack where it "y's" to the left. From here cut left into the obvious red streak making technical and big and tension moves on underclings and crimps clipping two bolts.  Bring a #3(orange) metolius for after the crux. All gear placements are solid. This is a really fun the route, albeit it is somewhat strange and technical.  It even has an easy dyno move when exiting the crux into the Forearm Frenzy horizontal crack to a massive bucket. 

  First cleaned and attempted by Shyloski and then climbed by both Labeniec and Shyloski on TR on 3/24/2010. The route could be easier or harder than the grade suggests. 

  Led by Nate Labeniec for the FFA in April 2011 on his last day, last attempt before moving to AZ.

 Video:  

youtu.be/Kgz7BXqiyvM

  Video 2: 

youtu.be/WkiEXSI4IFQ

Crux may be getting off the ground... hidden crimpers are delightful as you inch up to the crux, you will know it when you get there. Top 1/3 is slope city... good ledge above.

The obvious steep classic crack on the climbers right hand side of the cliff on the first real piece of climbable real-estate that you come upon during the approach.  The crack takes excellent gear and the rock quality is excellent. The route consists of two small boulder problems separated by a huge horizontal crack rest. The first boulder problem has a left hand crimp and small feet. The upper and harder crux has two opposing gastons.   

  The route does suffer from seepage at the top.The rock ramp on the left is "off" for the feet. 

  There is also an excellent variation which starts on top of the ramp and follows the obvious crack into the top boulder problem of Wallow in the Hallow. It starts on a cool pinch and left gaston to gain the horizontal then do the crux of Wallow. This is probably 5.12a and its a good way to dial in the top crux.

The face between Kiddy Crack and Kiddy Corner

Forearm Direct aka The Hollow Head Crew. This line starts 15' to climbers right of the Forearm Frenzy flake on some cool slopers and crimps and blasts up to a huge hanging jug in the middle of the wall. Finish straight up on Forearm Frenzy or the various Forearm finishes. This climb is very popular and the stronger locals will often "warm-up" on it in their Guide Tennies.

A fine mixed route that makes the classic "forearm frenzy" more sustained. Climb past three bolts on the right side of the face, plug a piece of gear in a nice horizontal pocket and continue up to the large, juggy ledge. Finish as for Forearm.  

Chatfield Hollow's Main Wall is the crown jewel of all the rope climbing in and around Chatfield State Park. People have been climbing here at the Main Wall since the early 1970's and new routes are still going up here today. The Main Wall at Chatfield has a good diversity routes in a beautiful hardwood forest setting. Chatfield's metamorphic gneiss rock is distinctively different from Central CT's trap rock. It has exquisitely featured grey and gritty overhanging walls, roofs, aretes, cracks, and slabs with a good mixture of grades for all climbers from a beginner climbing 5.3 to an expert climbing 5.13s. You'll be amazed by the holds you have to use on the routes here: finger cracks, jugs, huge slopers, underclings, edges, pockets, and razor blade crimps.What is unique here, unlike many other Connecticut climbing areas, is that all styles of climbing live in harmony here. You can climb traditional gear protected routes, mixed routes, or pure sport climbs. Chatfield is a great place to climb a lot of routes in a day. It is compact and there are a lot of good routes within a close space. Some great moderates include the Trad Crack, Clark Bar Crack, Kyles Corner, and Super Slab. If you are looking to test yourself check out the Anarchist, Zeitgeist, Shape Shifter, Cold Vein, Its Own Spirit or the massive link-up of the Modern Collective. All these routes are different and they all pack a unique style of punch from bouldery to technical. Last but definitely not least, the traditionally protected crack routes here are some of the best in the state. Routes like Forearm Frenzy and Wallow In the Hollow will test your knowledge of gear placement and your climbing talents. These routes are classics and should not be missed if you are able to climb them.If new to the area and you are coming here for the first time bring a rope, some quick draws, and a standard rack with lots of small and medium cams. Be very careful when you are walking on the delicate thin soils of the cliff top to set up your top ropes. Try as much as possible to tread lightly in this fragile environment. Walk on rock as much as possible. You'll see some dead trees and battered vegetation and muddy trails from years of top-roping use/abuse. Walk on established trails or bare rock when you are setting up your anchors. Also please pick up any trash you might see on the way in or at the cliff. Let's keep Chatfield great for the next generation of climbers to come.

Description

Protection

Routes in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall