One of the longest routes on the face. The route is also pretty sustained at the grade from top to bottom. From the ground, start up a short section with sloping holds and move onto a clean face with small holds littered throughout. No one move is more cruxy than the rest, but the section above the big white dot (you'll see it) is likely the hardest area to get through. Stay on the right side of the arete between the west and north face until you get to the small bush. At that point, step left and run it out to the two bolt anchor on the top of the north face.

The Phobia

Scorpion's Cave

Right Around

Black Streak

Green Mile

Vultures Feather

The route starts on the left side of the south face. From the ground step up into a nice stance then work into the the small holds and sloping feet, aiming for the short roof nestled on the arete between the south and west face. Unlock the sequence to pull over the small roof (crux) and rejoice when you find yourself above it. Once over the roof, work up the lower angled west face and easily reach the two bolt anchor shared with The Phobia.

This route wanders up the right side of the south face. Mostly in the shade of some large oaks, start up onto some sloping holds, then move upwards from incut hold to incut hold. Pass the large rock scar where the first ascentionists found the famous scorpion, now a great jug. Near the top, you come to the crux just after you clip the fourth and last bolt. Surmount the 5.9 crux bulge and clip the two bolt anchor.

The route climbs through the right side of the prominent bulge. Start off the ground with sloping holds working your way onto largish ledge below obvious bulge. Reach up and use good side pulls and edges to surmount the bulge head on (crux). Easier but steep climbing using small holds will take you to the top where you will find a 2 bolt anchor.

Route starts in the middle of the South Face. This line works off the ground to an initial ledge and attacks the steep wall below the large bulge on good holds. Be stoked to surmount the bulge (crux) on good incuts, some sidepull, and a few hidden finger pockets. Once above bulge, take a deep breath, have a good look around, then take on the headwall above the bulge on solid holds to the top. This route is the first ascensionists favorite line at Chezem.

This route climbs up and through the shallow left-facing dihedral between the bulge and the cliff face. Start up to a sloping ledge on sloping holds. Work the smooth face towards the dihedral. Small edges and holds on both the bulge and face help surmount the crux dihedral. The difficulties ease a bit as you get towards the top of the dihedral. Work up and slightly right towards the top, overcoming a final bulge just below the top. Find a 2-bolt anchor on top. This route has been one of the most difficult to initially clean of lichen and loose flakes as it appears to be a drain for water on the summit. But some regular activity on the route should clean it up nicely.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Face