Clip a bolt while standing on the ground (you'll be thankful in a minute), then make some bouldery moves and clip a second bolt before gaining a rest on a ledge.  As you ponder the thin climbing above for a minute or ten, you may grow less thankful for the comfy ledge you stand on, as it will be much less comfy to fall on.  Choose your sequence and commit to thin insecure climbing above.  Once you clip the fourth bolt, breathe a sigh of relief and enjoy some of that all too familiar LCC power-liebacking.  Finish on enjoyable 5.10 slab to the chains!

Men of Mayhem

Fish For Brains

The Wave of Mutilation

The Pabst Schmear

The crux for the route is either the unprotected mantle (cheeks) at the start or the middle of the route.  This bolted slab archs up and right past many bolts through a brilliant and clean granite slab.  The pitch is interrupted by a ledge with trees, then goes back to clean sweeping granite.  There is a second pitch above this with two variations with both ending at the same anchors.  You can rap both pitches of this route with a single (60M) rope.

Named after the Pixies song, this route provides great climbing, exposure, and altitude. The crux of this route is only 20 feet up the first pitch.  It involves steep friction while traversing right.  It is protected with bomber bolts and the fall is mellow.  After the crux, the pitch climbs nearly straight up past 5.9 jugs and crimps to a two bolt anchor in a shallow chimney.  The second pitch is a "4x4" pitch which involves climbing up and right  via the path of least resistance to the bottom of a 5.6 flake.  Clip a bolt and climb the flake and cracks to a two bolt anchor at a stance.  Pitch three:   Climb up and right to a chickenhead.  Sling it and commit to a mantle.  After the mantle climb past one bolt and chickenheads to the base of the slab that contains the routes Snow Queens and Ice Fairies and Thats Rebolting.  Sling a bunch of chickenheads and climb out (right) toward the edge of the formation.  Clip the bolt and climb up past bolts (5.9) through really clean granite arriving at a chain anchor at a stance.  Note:  This pitch intersects with Snow Queens and Ice Fairies.  To stay on route, climb up and right staying near the edge.  Pitch four:  Climb along the edge past bolts, a #2 cam placement behind a flake, into a sea of dark chickenheads.  Follow the bolts ending with an exciting finish at the anchor for The Gills.  Rap the route with one (60M) rope.  One rap from the Gills to a SUB ANCHOR hidden under a roof/dihedral west of the middle of pitch four, one rap to the chain anchor on top of pitch 3, one rap east to a big ledge, then walk east to a large chain anchor and rap one more time.

This is the first route protected entirely with  glue in's in Little Cottonwood Canyon.  This route is also at the top of the gulley to the west of Lizard Head Buttress and directly below "The Gills."  This route is left of "Fish For Brains" and about 30 feet above the trees.  You need to scramble fifth class cracks to get to the base of this route.  You will recognize this as a clean slab with glue in protection.  Don't mistake this its a glue-in sporty 5.12 neighbor to the east.  There is one fixed piton on this route.  The crux of this great pitch is avoiding hucking your carcass into the wide crack to the left instead of staying on the slab and charging for the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Fin Gully