This chimney behind the penthouse leads to a notch from where you can hit the summit of the penthouse or the rooftop. Classic chimney with a crux at a bulge to the notch. An anchor can be made here then either step out across the wall and up onto a short slab, gear then run it out to the summit of the rooftop.....or step across and up onto the summit of the penthouse where you will find a two bolt belay.

Rats in the belfry

Tick Magnet

Aftershocks and Afterthoughts

Tower block neurosis

Make it two Utah

High rise heist

Gas leak

Slap Happy

Bodie was a bad man

Penthouse sweet

Road kill

Fun steep climbing on good holds. Start off ledge onto some horizontals to first bolt. Crux is a reach to a good finger crack between first and second bolt. Then up and left across nice flake, two more bolts here then pull around onto slabby ramp of high rise heist. Another bolt, and a long sling for tree. Use same anchor as high rise heist.

Follow the slanting groove up and over towards the right arête before moving back left to the shallow crack leading to a series of small undercling roofs. After arriving at the last and largest roof there are two variations.

Move left for easier glory climbing on the 'Aftershocks' variation (gear, ~11c).

For a little more challenge and exposure, climb the 'Afterthoughts' variation by moving right towards a pair of chicken heads and clipping a single bolt. Enjoy a no hands rest standing on the chicken heads and resist the urge to clip the bolt of Tower Block Neurosis around the corner. Stay on the face and use a crimp in the seam to the left to enter a final sequence finishing with a slap to good edge followed by jugs to the top. Might bump the grade closer to 11d.

Rap the route.

I wasn't sure I wanted to bolt this climb, being so close to gas leak so for now it can be toprope do after leading gas leak. Either climb gas leak then move left onto the thin, slabby arête, or start independently down and left of previous climb.

This fine little arête is on the point break pillar. From the trail at the penthouse head through the saddle and to the right. You will see the top of the formation, scramble carefully over to the top, making an exposed move to the anchors which face out over the highway. You can easily short rope to this anchor. Rap down the route and climb it back to anchor. Alternatively you can scramble up a steep loose gully from below to base of route, not recommended.

This route climbs flakes and cracks diagonally right up the right side of the penthouse. Either start ground level via some flared cracks to an obvious ledge(not well protected) or scramble directly on to the ledge from the gully on right. A good belay can be set here. Climb the steep left arching flake(crux) into the crack system above. Awkward climbing follows up the cracks, good gear available but sometimes not obvious. Be aware of the loose flake about half way up. After the tree step right onto easy terrain to the two bolt belay.

This route is on the blocky slab at the bottom right of the area, known as the road kill tower. See accompanying map. This wall faces down stream and offers great afternoon shade on a hot summers day. Start at center of wall below obvious right trending twin cracks. Awkward face climbing past three bolts leads you to the crack system. Climb flared jams up and right to a two bolt anchor below the small tree.

Sharp arete with 3 bolts leads to a corner with small to medium cams. Bolt anchor on top. It is possible to hike up and around to anchors if you don’t want to lead. Slightly contrived at bottom where it is possible to avoid the starting moves by stemming into scrubby corner....don’t! Technical and thin arete with 3 bolts to a big ledge. A horizontal takes a good number 1 cam and the corner has finger and smaller sizes. Double bolt anchor on top.

This is the companion route to make it two Utah....follow the same approach, rap the pillar but climb the left/ upstream side. Slightly harder than the other route.

This fine outing climbs the main face ( facing highway)of the penthouse pillar. Start just right of center below some cracks. Clip a bolt and move up a short face, clip another bolt then into the crack, good #2/3 camalot here. A long sling is advisable then move left out through the bulge, bolt , and onto the face above. Move left and up, bolt, pass a flake on right then up,to under cling flake and another bolt. Move left slightly to base of crack, then up it with a couple good small to medium pieces. The crack fads out onto the blunt, slabby arête above. Make sustained, thin ,smeary moves up this past two bolts then the anchor....yahoo!

This is the right side of gas leak. Start up gas leak, clip first two bolts, put a long sling on the second bolt. Move right along a finger traverse to a good two finger pocket and a bolt. Climb sustained thin slab past three more bolts to a two bolt anchor. Great climb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The towers at 202