This route is an exercise in small hold crimping.  Start down and right of the obvious knob low in the center of the face.  Acquire the knob via an entertaining sequence (sideways dyno off thin crimps.)  At the third bolt do some tricky crux crimping to obtain the lower right end of the flake/small roof.  Follow this feature up and left.  A couple more hard moves turn the small roof and lead to great patina edging.  Easier face leads up and right past a few more bolts to a bolted anchor.

While most of the rock on this route is quality the crux sections are on some slightly friable edges.  Consequently the character of this route has changed a few times and could possibly continue to do so.

Shape Shifter

Flappers

Solstice Celebration

Barn Dance

Crappers

From the ground do an approach pitch to get to the huge ledge where the business is.  One may either do the easy decomposing gully (original line) or far better, climb the face just left of the gully passing 4 bolts, 10a.

From the left end of the ledge do a couple of moves in a short crack to the first bolt.  Continuous crimping up the orange/gold rock takes one up to and over a small roof then through the slowly steepening bulge.  This pitch is quality edging and has several thought provoking sequences.

From the belay climb past a couple more bolts, then tend left and up on easy climbing.

The two pitches off the ledge may be combined into a single pitch.

On the right side of the buttress is a left-leaning black streak. Climb this past two bolts to a belay at a sloping area.

Move out left to a crack and follow it to the top.

Descend 4th class to the right.

P1) Starts at the toe of the buttress, and left of the route "Solstice Celebration". Climb up a right-leaning crack with some loose flakes to a stance. Place some final small pro at your feet and bust out left onto a large sloping knob and gritty face (10b R). Above, and easy handcrack leads to a sloping area and a gear belay. 5.10b R, 80'.

P2) From the belay, head up the obvious fingers/tips lieback crack (crux, 5.11a) to a series of small roofs. Step left underneath the second roof and pull over on gritty jugs. Two bolts protect the slab above (5.10a R). A final, runout crux above involves stemming up into a flared, gritty offwidth corner with marginal gear (5.9+?, #3-4 BD stoppers, #1 ballnut).

Climb one of the pitches to the huge ledge.  From there scramble to the top of the large chockstone in the gully on the right side of the wall.

Face climb past 3 bolts, then up and right past two more to obtain a crack system.  Follow the crack up and left to a bolt anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Solstice Celebration Wall