The crux is getting past the second bolt and into the shallow corner. Good route.

Strange Times

Isn't Life Strange

Split Personality

Talking Out Of Turn

Hope and Pray

The Balance

Ride My See-saw

Wine and Roses

Great technical climbing on small edges and sharp in-cuts. The obvious green and gold face above Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello and just left of a right facing corner (5.7). Take fourteen draws if you are going to do the route in one pitch.

This a very classic route and the upper section is just wild climbing up and over a series of overhangs to a traverse that gets you on the upper headwall.

Climb up the steep thin face making cool, thoughtful moves (5.10c/d) to the first anchor. Belay or continue up and right through the tier overhangs the upper headwall. Climb the headwall past three bolts to the anchor.

Be careful lowering and put a knot in the other end of the rope.

Great route that will get better with more ascents.

Start as for

Isn't Life Strange

at central Animal World. Clip the first bolt on that route, then lean left and clip a bolt at the base of the clean face. Trend up and right following a thin seam past two more bolts to a small overlap. Clip a bolt above this feature and step left (crux for all but the very tall), then go up the beautiful orange face to a double buttonhead station. Clip these with two long slings and head straight up through a large roof, left to a stance, then up through two smaller overhangs to the anchors on

Talking Out of Turn

.

This is a great two-pitch or one long pitch route that offers great and varied climbing.

If done in two pitches bring 8 to 9 draws. If doing one pitch bring 14 draws.

Pitch 1: Start left of Isn't Life Strange on a good ledge. Climb up past two bolts in the gold face tending left to a corner. Climb the corner and arete up to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Climb straight up from the anchor into another shallow corner. Cool moves lead to a good ledge and small overhang. Climb the overhang on the left and then fire up the nice face to the anchor.

Can be done in one pitch.

A 60-meter rope makes it back to the starting ledge but not the ground...be careful lowering.

Climb the cracks and face on the center of the pillar. Hope & Pray the holds stay on. We pulled a big one off, and the rest seem to be good. Could use some cleaning.

The crux is getting past the second bolt. Nice face climbing leads to a crack (medium gear) and to the last bolt and the anchors.

Follow 2 bolts to blocky flakes. Climb gently placing 2 gold Camalots on easy terrain until the first bolt on the arete is reached. At the 3rd bolt on the arete, move slightly right past 2 more bolts to anchor.

Start as for Ride My Seesaw and after the second bolt follow the short corner to the off-size finger crack through a small roof and up thin fingers to the anchor.

This is a really good route with good but somewhat strenuous gear placements. Dan rated the route hard 5.10 back in 1979 on the FA but after doing it for a second time thinks it is 5.11...I agree!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Middle Animal World