After brushing the glossy iron sloping rail you'll wonder how this gets a V3 grade, trust me, this feels easier when you are hanging on the holds. Start low left on the rail trend up with heels and toes to a final jug.  Top out into a mouthful of dirt with a mantle over to the left for the full experience. 

George in the Gorge

Flatface

I'll be at the Bottom

Two Face

Shortsighted

Long Walk

Project (Open)

Diamond in the Rough

Rivers Run

Unnamed

To the Depths

Geometry

The Vision

Darrow the red

Peerless Scarred

Triple Right

Junebug

Save yourself

Typical bouldering beta

Triple left

Pop my pumps on

Day of the Dreidel

Throttlebottom

Sling Blade

Off the deck

Capitol Grovel

The wind beneath my feet.

Pedestrian life

Triple Middle

Pop my heels on

Trigonometry

Last king line on the left

This is an open project, starting on the same holds as "Capitol Grovel, but trending out right using slimpers and slopers. Trend right along horrible holds to a sloping bowl and get some struggle going for the finish. There is not a single easy move on this. The line will likely be the hardest line in Northeast Ohio. Without question harder than V10. 

Not yet climbed.  Pretty dry even with rain. 

  Latitude: 41° 7' 15.94" N   Longitude: 81° 29' 26.052" W

Quite a good route with a very committing top section, either deadpoint or use some slimps to gain the higher rail from the midpoint of the two good holds in the center. 

A little boulder problem. 

  Latitude: 41° 7' 12.71" N   Longitude: 81° 29' 29.73" W

You need the vision to be able to find and want to attempt such a donkey line. This definitely is not the best line, but it is worth doing if you are in the area. Start on a good right hand and blocky split crimp for the left, use some heel trickery slap your way up to a good hold and finish up. 

Boulder traverse 

  Latitude: 41° 7' 12.61" N   Longitude: 81° 29' 28.362" W

Not yet climbed. 

  Latitude: 41° 7' 12.6" N   Longitude: 81° 29' 29.268" W

Fun problem start on a ledge and make a large lock off move to a good crimp rail, match the rail and finish on the jugs up top. River Run is the left line. 

This two move nonsense line is probably one you want to avoid but if you insist on doing it, start on the sloping arete and a hand hold that will consistently confuse and frustrate. Hit the good crimp below the roof and give a little hop to the dirty juggy top, mantle up on the dirt and leaves. Have fun...

The crux is a small crimp rail at 3/4 height. If you fall here, you are falling to a ledge 10' down or the depths about a 25-30' fall. It would be wise to brush the route and suss it on TR first...

Rock is wet after rain. 

  Latitude: 41° 7' 13.96" N   Longitude: 81° 29' 27.012" W

The sit start of "Short sighted." You need the vision to be able to find and want to attempt such a donkey line. Start on the good rail below the start of "short sighted", the opposing block is on but only for the first moves. Avoid using this up high. 

 

The crux is lower, pulling longer moves on sharp crimps, the climb eases as you continue higher, don't blow the moves up top. The rock quality is terrific on this one. 

A pristine route through and through, the climbing is relentlessly delicate. The crux is low but the entire route will keep you guessing on the send. 

Rock is a little wet after rain. 

  Latitude: 41° 7' 14.96" N   Longitude: 81° 29' 25.638" W

A little scary towards the top, start the same as I'll be at the bottom but instead of making the high reach to the sloping hold up high bust out left to the savior jugs. Either piano your hands or make a very large reach out to the jugs, and save yourself from a scary committing top. 

Traverse along the base of the roof, is it a hand-foot match? Start in two forever crumbling holds near the right center of the roof. Stay low? Stay high? Enjoy figuring it out...

Good jamming, leads to a ledge, down-climb or drop from ledge. Surprisingly great rock quality. 

Great line a tad more thuggy than its twin "Pop my heels on." Wear those pumps proud! 

Start low on a good rail beneath the right side of the roof. Make a move to a good rail in the roof out to a slopey hold on the face and throw to the ledge. Most times dreidels are made of clay, some are made of sharp rock to repel the pretenders. 

The whole route is relatively difficult, the difficulty varies with weather as all things in Ohio. You will need to implore some masochistic tendencies to top this route out. This is more of a grovel than trying to storm the capitol, donate some skin to send the route. This route has many nuances, culminating in a tough struggle fest top out. 

 Avoid the good foot rail below following your feet along the rail as well as the face you climb up for capitol grovel. 

Rock quality is good, delicate moves about the arete. Fun climbing all and all. 

Right line. The route shares the same start with "Rivers Run" from here chug out right through a bad slope rail or a very large committing move to a crimp follow this to the top right corner.

Really great boulder problem, especially for Northeast Ohio, one of the only stand alone boulders with a problem in the Cuyahoga Gorge. Start beneath the kickback of the boulder on the right side in some very good pockets. Make a few moves on pockets to a big move to a rail, then grovel your way up the storm of the hill. 

Start on the same holds as Typical Boulder beta, trend right and out of the roof along the right side. After the start hope your foot sticks and you're accurate on your bumps, otherwise the ground for you. Once you get established on the right of the roof continue up the sandy dirty ledges to the top. 

Begin up Triple Right and finish on Triple Left, avoiding the top crux of Triple Right. 

Surprisingly good rock, the starting hands will need brushed but other than that this is a great little warm up. 

Rock is wet after rain. 

  Latitude: 41° 7' 14.43" N   Longitude: 81° 29' 25.23" W

Start on the right side of the short cave in a sharp left hand and a small crimp for your right hand. Make a big move out to a good hold, hold the barn door, match and move to the finish.

There isn't really a crux on this one, other than the top. 

Glens is located in Cuyahoga Falls, OH and has plenty of rock ledges. The rock is sandstone. Almost all of the ledges are south-east facing and thus in many areas are quite dry and without any mosses / plant growth.  However, in the winter the rock is typically dryer within Cuyahoga Falls Gorge area (see MP listing).   

  There are no official camping spots in the park and no fees to enter. Alcoholic beverages of any kind are forbidden in the park. Do not bring them for any reason.  There are zero routes officially marked.   

  Please do not touch rocks with moss or lichens on it. These are important for the wildlife and need to be protected. Stick to areas that are dry and without growth and directly adjacent to the path (walking off the path is not permitted).  This park is great for hiking to see the rocks and many rock overhangs. It has two pretty nice waterfalls. Also, the "Highbridge Glens" trail has some spectacular views of the river. The Cuyahoga River runs through it and if you are ambitious, you can take a kayak down there and ride the river.  

  The "Highbridge Glens" trail has a South-East facing rock wall over most of the path that gets a lot of sun (more in the summer than winter). The Glens trail runs about 0.5 miles and most of it has a 20 - 50 foot high rock face. There are plenty of traverse options. There are also numerous other places to see nice rock faces in the park (See Cuyahoga Falls Gorge). Choose your own adventure and tread lightly.  

  Glens has a main entrance area that can be found easily on Google (see Getting There for information). There is another entrance that is a bit hidden on the North-east end of the trail. 

  The Highbridge Glens trail has some interesting history that you can read about here: 

blogs.uakron.edu/cap/high-b…

  Nearby places to eat / drink:    Before or after you hike, make a visit to Blue Door Cafe and Bakery located at 1970 State Rd., Cuyahoga Falls, OH. This is one of the best cafes in a 100 mile radius of the area! Super fresh made bread and great food, but check hours to make sure they are open bluedoorcafebakery.com. You may also like to try another nearby cafe (walkable distance from Gorge, fluryscafe.com/). This has some nice breakfast and early afternoon lunch. Also, "The Office", "Craft Beer Bar" near downtown Cuyahoga Falls are nice for an after hike dinner / beer. Burntwood Tavern in Downtown Cuyahoga Falls has an awesome patio overlooking the Cuyahoga River and great craft beers to choose from.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cuyahoga Falls Glens