Well brushed steep slab at the lower corner of the west face. Horizontal edge to diagonal seam protected with a bolt. Climb to the steep hueco covered wall above. 5 bolts and large cams. Chain anchor.

F-104

Dirty Boulevard

Unknown

Neanderthal

Homo Erectus

Echo Slab

Dime Store Mystery

Annie's Lament

Free Bird

Lost Echos

Mom's Meatloaf

Face climb to the right of Mom's Meatfloaf. Step across gully next to the lowest large boulder. Move can be protected with stick clipping the first bolt. Bolted anchor at top.

Descent: rappel from anchor

Climb the slab with some marginal gear to the 'crevasse' or traverse left on the crevasse. Step across to gain the offwidth crack then get your knee stuck to a two bolt anchor at the top.

Two bolt dirty slab.

Descent: walk off the gully to the right of the route and back down to the base.

Good slabby route, clean and well protected.

Dirty slab to the right of the cleaner Neanderthal and Homo Erectus routes on the east slab. In need of some cleaning. Three bolts to a two bolt anchor with rap rings.

Good hard slab. Bad feet, nearly no hand holds. Slightly harder than Neanderthal to the right. Four bolts. Bolted anchors.

Could toprope if ascended the standard walk off but would involve some jankiness.

Friction slab up past a bolt. Gear through a bulge to another bolt, then easy runout climbing to bolted anchors at the top.

Start's left of Mom's Meatloaf. Climb bolted face (5.8) then cross wide crack and head up left on dike. 5.8 variation stays in the wide crack after the face section.

Begin on the distinct layback crack splitting the low angle eastern face of the cliff. Traverse left to avoid the roof and belay at a low angle ledge.

Pitch 2: Continue left climbing over some blobby face. Step across the rock moat. Run it out up the easy slab and belay anywhere convenient.

Variation: Deviating to the right at the small roof puts you in a finger to hand crack which is a blast, but probably goes slightly harder than 5.6. This route can easily be done in one pitch with a 70m rope and possibly a 60m rope. Just mind rope drag low down.

Begins to the left of a large crack. Head up to the tree. Pull easy roof, follow runout dike into a moat. Belay from the moat. Walk off through moat or climb pitch two of Annie's Lament. Old book has it at 10.b but I thought it felt easier. 5.9?

Climb the diagonal crack out left under a roof. Follow final easy slab to bolted anchors on face above climb.

Very dirty slab. Three bolts. Two bolt anchor.

Hand crack to the left of Dirty Boulevard and to the right of Dime Store Mystery. Starts with a committing step across from a large boulder to a good flake. Then the crux is gaining the crack from here. These cruxy early moves can be protected by stick clipping a #3 BD cam into the crack above. Climb up the slightly right leaning well protected hand crack to a bolt at the top of the crack. Finish on dirty slab to a set of bolted anchors about ten feet above the bolt or continue to the top for the full experience.

Descent: Can rappel or lower from bolted anchors with rap rings or can walk off the northwest gully.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Elk Rock