Short approach for a fun alpine route on solid rock with varied climbing. Short 5.4 crux.

Note that the chimney may be wet in early season or if there is significant rainfall during otherwise drier months. The route is water polished, so be prepared.

Preventing Epics

Although in the alpine climbing sense this is an easy route, for newer alpine or trad climbers this route should not be underestimated.

There have been a growing number of rescues and unplanned bivies due to parties failing to prepare for the route finding, conditions, exposure, altitude, and arduous scree descent.  Plan accordingly and start early.

Before attempting this route:

For newer trad climbers, have your multi-pitch trad skills down, including anchor building/equalization, efficient gear placement and removal, and downclimbing.  There are no fixed anchors on this route.  Strongly consider taking a climbing self-rescue class (or refresher).

All members of your party should practice alpine route finding (ascents and descents) and scree descents, and mentally prepare for exposure on easier routes before attempting this route.  Physically prepare for the altitude. The Sierra has many fun opportunities for practice.

The SE Face of Emerson is not a route you can reasonably pitch out to the top.

Study the route description and bring along beta, including any critical photos.

Check the weather and route conditions. Have a plan in case you hit unexpected adverse conditions or other reason for retreat.

Prepare for an unplanned bivy by carrying an emergency blanket, warm clothes, extra food, and a headlamp.  Even if you call for a rescue, you may need to wait until the following day if there are no life-threatening injuries.

In general, an unplanned summer bivouac is not an emergency and doesn't merit a rescue.

Route

Climb the 5.4 crack. If the chimney is too wet there you can climb the face to the right of a second chimney, which is just to the right of the normal route. The chimney is blocked with a large chockstone at which point you can easily cross and move left onto an easy, but exposed ramp system that connects with the original route. Continue up class 3-4 slabs eventually leading back into the original crack for a pitch of class 4. Head up a broad chute for 500 ft, then cross left across a rib into another chute (

potential for route-finding mishaps here, see 5th photo below

). Aim for a notch in the ridge then proceed along the amazing ridgeline to the summit, passing several gendarmes to keep the grade at class 4.

Amy on the crux pitch (P1)

Matt on the wet season waterfall bypass after crossing over the chockstone

Amy on one of the early class 4 sections

easy scrambling before the gully

Just below the point at which you'll cross left over the rib into another chute.

ridge traverse section

final push to the summit

Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route)

North Couloir

Cross the bergschrund at 11,700' and follow the couloir for ~1200' to the col. The couloir averages 40 degrees and steepens a little just before the top. Some easy mixed climbing will get you to the col proper, where a couple hundred feet of scrambling lead to the summit. This route is recommended as an early season climb most years due to the high potential for rockfall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mt. Emerson