This route is on the sharp arete to the north side of the Alcove. The positioning is awesome. Since this route has not seen much traffic, there are still some small suspect flakes. There are good edges with which to work.

After Shocks

Half a Man

Fault Line

Rouge Element

Seismic Wave

Red Alert

Direct Hit

Close Call

Disruption

The Golden Staircase; pitches 3 & 4

Early Warning

Near Miss

The Dark Half

Enter the Fault Line just left of a thin, right-facing crack, and climb up using the crack and face holds on the left. Climb up onto a small ledge, and continue up the inset face right of a flake to a good jug. Make tricky moves upward and left to reach the chains on top of a bulge.

From the recessed middle wall, diagonal up and left to a right-facing dihedral, then up a wavy face.

'Crags' slab climbing at its best. Sack-up for this one. "It ain't no sport climb - it's a bolted protected rock climb!" (per Mr. Kimball himself) Stellar slab climbing, edges and pasting.

Start on a network of web-like seams in the middle of the wall, followed by a crux roof sequence.

2-bolt anchor over the roof has been added.  or Scramble over the top and down onto a platform on the SW corner of the Shark Fin.

Extra credit: while there climb the short, 5-bolt, but sweet Yellow Butterfly (5.9+) on Shark Fin.

Walk off, down around to the left (north) to return to the base in a counterclockwise hike. Totally worth the walk.

Climb through the first two bolts on

Early Warning

, and then veer left and climb up into the base of a sheer prow. Climb up the center of the overhanging prow, and work your way through the technical face climbing just left of the bolt line to reach the chains at its top. Try to avoid going seismic on the finishing moves.

Climb

Early Warning

to its anchors, and then continue up and left onto a tan face. Climb the face just left of the bolt line, and continue through the bulging red prow at its top to reach the chains.

Begin up the west side of the north face of Half & Half crag using varied grips to climb upward on increasingly harder terrain (note: after climbing past bolt 7 you will pass the 2-bolt anchor for

Close Call

). As you pass the left side of the highest roof, you encounter the crux, which is a steep section that requires technical face climbing. This transitions to easier climbing that leads to the anchors. From the anchors on Direct Hit, with a 60m rope, you can lower or rap and just reach the base of the climb.

The climbing on Close Call starts with easy scrambling to the first bolt followed by easy slab climbing until reaching the crux, which involves passing the large roof on its left side (do not wander left toward

Direct Hit

). The face climbing above trends to the right and joins the left-facing crack which leads to the anchors.

Disruption climbs

Direct Hit

to its anchors and then continues up and left to join the end of

Rouge Element

below the final roof on that climb. Climbing to the anchors on

Rouge Element

yields a 140 foot long climb to reach the top of Half & Half Crag. With a 60m rope ,there are at least two options to climbing Disruption: 1) the leader can belay at the top of Half & Half, and after the 2nd reaches the top, they can both walk off to the south and west or 2) the leader can thread the rings and the belayer can lower him/her to the anchors on

Direct Hit

, the leader can clip in direct there, pull the rope, retie in, and then lower from the anchors on

Direct Hit

to the base of the climb.

These are pitches 3 & 4 of a much longer link-up named The Golden Staircase. It can be done as its own climb, as can different sections of the Staircase. Check out the climbs under the Woodstone and The Druid formations for other sections of the route.

Begin up the right side of a bulge, and climb up and leftward onto a face. Continue into and through a featured section with cracks, pockets, and crimps. Climb the face above following the bolt line to reach the chains (do not venture out left into a small gully feature).

Near Miss climbs the first 60 feet of

Direct Hit

for 8 bolts, and then the climber can climb to the right and lower off the anchors on the top of

Close Call

. It is a fun moderate climb with consistent movement on featured rock.

Start with the first 2 bolts of the route "

Half a Man

" to the ledge. Move to the right side of the ledge, and follow 8 bolts on nice multi-colored stone. Trend left toward the top to join the last bolt of "

Half a Man

", then go up to the anchor shared with "

Half a Man

".

A 60 meter rope is required.

Description

Protection

Routes in Half & Half Crag