Should get done more. A bouldery route that has different character than most on the bomb shelter.Start up three bolts of low angle to a stance below the bulge. A cool dynamic crux move is definitely height dependent: foot options are bleak higher up.After that a couple of different sequence options clear the bulge, and the lack of a great rest makes the tricky final bulge a bit puntable.Requires cleaning at the start of the dry season. 

Wildly Idle

20 Years

Emergent Strategy

Fake It Till You Make It

Sector Strategies

The Blues are Still Blue

Unpaid Internship

Feasibility Study

House of Cards

Side Hustle

Group Therapy

Overhung line of weakness near the center of the wall. Begins in steeper terrain and continues up and over the lip into thought provoking slab moves to the chains. First explored in the early 2000s and finished off a couple decades later.

Begin up Sector Strategies and then cut left about two thirds of the way up climbing past two more bolts to a seperate anchor. There's a few different sequences leading to the chains, but they all include big moves on marginal holds.Hard to point to a specific crux move.  This one comes at you pretty much from the moment you step (throw?) left and doesn't let up until just before the anchor.  Some memorable movement and a great position in the middle of the wall.  

A few bolts of moderate terrain lead to a marginal rest. Then launch into sequential climbing on edges that drain power for an equally powerful and technical crux encounter near the top.Similar pacing to Sector Strategies, but far more technical as you get into the meat of the route.  If you like small edges, then you'll probably dig this one.  That being said, even the most technically proficient vert masters will still need a little "burl" when the angle kicks back.

Start up easy ground (easier than unpaid), to a nice stance below the steepening headwall. A few bolts of mid 5.12 with big moves and some shouldery work take you to the crux. My heckin donk fully broke the crux crimp on 6/19/20 and Micah re-FA'd the route a few weeks later. Now the prevailing beta is a huge move to a flat edge, a desperate piano match, and an outro that stays physical on thin holds for another 2-3 bolts. In isolation, the crux is harder. This is on a route that already posed significant endurance demands--subsequently upgraded a letter. The crux may be less fun now, esp. for non-pianists.

Positive holds make for a moderate  overhanging climb with a really great rest shelf in the middle. Reading the crux (second half) sequence correctly is essential. You'll probably still feel punped out as you turn on to the slab at the top. A great route for leaders trying to break in to the 11s.

Climb to the first anchors (two rap rings). Fairly consistent difficulty with cruxy moves around the third bolt and just before the anchor. 

Climb Unpaid Internship and find a decent rest at the first anchor, or the better rest at the bolt below it.  Then start up the more challenging climbing above. The bolts above require some poise and additional energy to clip. The difficulty eases slightly one move after the last bolt, but the remaining moves to the chains are increasingly reachy and are all easy to fall on as the pump builds.

A power-endurance sprint. One of the shorter routes on the bomb shelter, but may be the most sustained, with classic, steadily escalating moves. Trades the ubiquitous sloper lockoffs of eagles rest for the technician's crisp edges and precise foot smears.Start gently up 5.11 crimping. Each move slowly builds, and tiny errors compound and snowball, giving no shelter through intricate 5.12 terrain with balance, finesse, and cool sequencing rightward. Just above, the first crux begins with desperate reaches through thin edges below the last bolt.It all culminates in a dramatic compression boulder on sweet geometric holds with the hardest single move being a shoulder rending (morpho, span) slap to gain the final clipping rail out left of the anchor. Good conditions help quite a bit for these moves in particular. The grade comes from the building fatigue on-redpoint, which will probably hit just in time to make the boulder, or even clipping the chains, a heartbreaker. A fully different energy system than the other bomb shelter routes, this one has probably been sent in less than 2 minutes before, whereas people generally will take 5-15 minutes to pace their way through the endurance oriented ones.Tough to imagine anyone resting anywhere on this thing. You can sort of choose whether to chalk or clip at certain points, but doing both could push one forearm irreversibly into meltdown.Originally rated 13b. Some key holds broke during the Summer of 2021. The crux is now quite a bit harder.  Phil Morton made quick work of the new "vintage" and uprated to 13c. 

Climb Sector Strategies up to the stance in the alcove.  Clip the 4th bolt, catch your breath, and then pull out of the alcove.  Head RIGHT to the last bolt of Unpaid Internship and finish that route.  Perhaps a bit PG13, with a little runout during the traverse.  Just don't blow the clip after you've established on Unpaid Internship.  Arguably a better warm up than Unpaid Internship, as there's less fingery climbing down low.  At the very least, a nice alternative, and like Unpaid, it stays bone dry in wet weather.  

While the Bomb Shelter houses some of the finest and toughest lines at Eagles, Group Therapy is a low-angle route mainly used as an access route to get to the Sun Deck or Animal House. There is usually a fixed line hanging on it. When dry, it can make for a fun little 5.6 if one was so inclined as to lead it. When wet, it can feel like a chore even when ascending via the fixed line.

Overhung wall of dark rock about 75ft tall right at the top of the switchback trail with natural staircase at the top (main trail)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (F) Bomb Shelter