The big chimney in the middle of the wall. Described as a "Traditional, bolt-protected chimney experience". Crux is the final move getting into the chimney proper.

Sport Chimney

Turtle Wax

Mr Choad's Wild Ride

Peak Performance

Tour de Pump

Black Happy

Claimjumpers Special

Edward Silverhands

Turbo Dog

Steep Thrills

Cirque de Soleil

Blackened

Golden Nugget

Solar Flare

Slot Machine

Scorpions

Working for Peanuts

Sunny and Steep

Gimme Back My Bullets

Overhanging face which climbs out a series of roofs before the crux and up the head wall. The climbing is not straight forward as you use slopers, pockets, edges, and heel hooks.

Between Scorpions and Sunny and Steep is a steep overhanging crack to face. Climb the crack, then break right to the face as the route gets steeper. Pull a roof up higher and move to the Sunny and Steep anchor.

A long, sustained, technical climb unlike the other climbs at Sunny And Steep.

Right behind the large boulder on the right side of the wall. Climbing through a big hueco to a thin bulgy crux. Hard.

Nice line, but not as popular as many of the routes at this wall.   Unlike many of the routes here, this route is not juggy - it is sort of slightly overhanging with some crimps and big moves.    

  So on the whole, it appears most folks prefer "Sunny and Steep" and some of the other routes to the right - but this is a worthwhile line and worth a spin.  Good movement with high points for continuity.

Full force for the rating, this is a great route to do while at the crag. Varied in style, this line offers a lot more than steep jug pulling. Demanding precision and a good amount of thought Claimjumpers Special will keep you thinking.  

  A dead vertical beginning leads to some difficult and hard to read terrain. A tight break, hidden edges, and few nice side-pulls keep the climbing entertaining. Pull through its low-lying committing crux to a quick rest and enjoy a more technical, more mellow dash to the chains.

A decent route to warm up on when at the Sunny and Steep wall.  Good holds heading almost straight up the face.

Begin below a low roof.  Pull the roof and continue to the steep, stiff, fingery crux.  Then face-climb to the top.  Holds have broken on this route making it a bit harder since the FA.

Climb out the overhang and up the face on the second bolted line right of the chimney.

Another long, technical climb that is unlike the routes around the corner.  This one is slightly easier than Mr Choad's because there are a couple of good rests before and after the crux.

Another of the less popular, more crimpy, routes on the left side of the wall.   

  A reasonable start leads to a huge move to an even more huge hold.  Then you set up for a very difficult crux with another big move.    

  Rating is sort of a wild guess - I messed up the crux and never did really get it right:  so if you have done this before and have an opinion on the difficulty, please toss it in here.

Juggy goodness up to the second bolt then some tricky beta to pull through to the top. Fine example of a sunny and steep route for this area. 

From Handren, 2016 guidebook... Start 8' left of Mr. Choads and follow a left-learning seam to an anchor. No star rating in the guidebook for this route, so giving it 1 star as a starting point since the book is typically stingy with stars.

A new route with a bit of everything: pockets, open hand jugs, and lost of edging.  Begin as for Gimme Back My Bullets and climb up the steep face clipping the first bolt to the left.  Move left on to edges and a pocket or two, then up the wall to the anchors of the 5.8.    A bit harder than Bullets, a bit easier than Tour De Pump.

A fun route up the dihedral left of Sunny and Steep. Power up the overhanging dihedral and the work the delicate face above to a two bolt anchor with tow hooks for lowering.

On the far right side of the Sunny and Steep wall sits a low angle, thin slab. While nowhere near as steep as its neighbors, Working for Peanuts is a good way to get things going or warm things down before/after the long hike. 

  Begin just left of the first bolt. Climb up a very serious and tricky start to gain some easier climbing above. Hold on tight up through the second bolt and stay on those feet, work right a bit and follow the most prominent features passing three more generously spaced bolts to a chain anchor.

This route climbs the bulge left of Tour de Pump.  protected by 6 bolts.

This route climbs a steep overhanging face as it follows a seam up jugs, and slopers to a pumpy crux at the top.

A popular and inviting sport crag home to about twenty routes ranging in grade from 5.10 to 5.12 and length from ~ 40' to 100'.  As the name implies the crag receives sun from about mid morning till dusk and many of the routes are steep and thuggy.  With an ample flat area below the cliff and bombproof glue-in bolts thanks to some of the same people who developed much of Rumney, many find Sunny and Steep an enjoyable destination away from the loop.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sunny and Steep