Ascend the black dike past bolts to shared anchors with Celebration Song.

Black Baby

Celebration Song

Crystal Seeker

Hooves and Claws

Friends

2 pitch route that starts on the left side of the Nose.

Pitch 1: 5.7 Challenging start to gain the dike. Ascend small dike past bolts to friction slab above. Threaded runner through pocket can be useful here.

Pitch 2: 5.9 Climb vertical dike above belay. Cruxy start off the belay so clip the bolt before making the moves. After the steep dike climb the lichen covered friction slab on the rounded arete to chain anchors overhanging the corridor to the left.

Climb the fist to hand crack to lichen covered slab above to shared anchors with Celebration Song and Black Baby. Can either belay from the anchor or TR redirect down the wall to climbers left of the route.

P1 (5.10d):  Climb past a single bolt to a flake system, pass another few bolts and the steep layback crux of the pitch.  Exit left in the hand crack.  Mantle onto a dike and climb the friction slab up and right to a two bolt belay.

P2 (5.7):  Climb corner crack up to a face.  End on a dirt ramp and belay off rock jutting out over east face.

P1 (5.8+):  Climb dike to left of Hooves and Claws.  Above the dike continue on the face and enter the fist to hand crack, end on the friction face and belay from two bolts at the horizontal dike.

P2 (5.8+):  Continue up slab to top belay of Hooves and Claws.  Rappel from tree at north end of summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gamma