Interesting climbing at the start eases up quickly. The top half has cleaned up nicely with some work and regular traffic.

Cornick's Corner

Surfing with the Alien

Where the Wild Things Roam

[Redacted]

Tangerine Dream

Feat of Clay

Graduation

The Orange Menace

Orangotang

Agent Orange

Route Crafters

Comfortizer

Wild Blue Yonder

Popular for its bolts and grade. Start up an easy ramp to a stance below a bulge. Clip and step left on small holds and swing up to a ledge. Stem up on big edges to another clip and pull onto the next ledge. Wander up and right around the prow and onto another ledge (avoid the poison oak). The climbing gets better as you trend back left and up a minor slot and finish on thin crack holds and slabby feet to a precarious stance at the anchors.

Climb the face just left of the chimney, stemming back onto the block behind you and eventually mounting them at the 2nd bolt. Climb the arete and crack and fiddle in gear where you can before bashing through the large sloping edges of the middle face. Cut left along a sweet diagonal that eventually widens to hands. A couple of easy moves place you at a rail, a bolt out right, and Cornick's Corner easily reachable on your left. Most people will probably bail left here and romp up the last few moves of the crack. If you do go for the final crux, know that the difficulty is out-of-character with the rest of the route. Described as 10d in the PRC guidebook, it is certainly WAY harder. It's a brief, bolt-protected, and exciting series of moves though if you're capable.Historical Note: Originally the route started up the face instead of the chimney. The rebolters (not me) moved the bolts far to the right, which takes away this good bit of climbing, but kept the same bolt count and made for a less spicy start.

Likely the best sport route at the crag, and one of the best of the grade in the greater Portland area. Start on vertical rock with incuts up to a high first bolt and a sudden steepening. Big jugs through a massive overhang set you up for a sudden, dynamic, technical crux just below the lip. Keep it together as you pull through the overhang and onto the face, where it joins Tangerine Dream. Slight runout through easier climbing to the anchors.

 Full name is "Where the Wild Things Roam" but that's just too long for casual conversation.

A phenomenal line that was apparently put up as, essentially, a free-solo through the crux first half. Start up left of the arete until you quickly encounter the first bouldery crux. Step right on these cool, small features. Continue straight up on positive edges, through the blocky horizontals to a stance below the right-trending seam. Pull through this to the hold at the lip and proceed to figure out the mantel move. Continue from here up the dirty, chunky, but fun crack to the top of the pedestal.

This is a fun line, and worth doing. Start off the pointy boulder and pull onto the face (this is hardest move to commit to IMO). Work up to the crack above the roof and place gear there and pull over it to the stance where you can clip the bolt. Then follow the left leaning dihedral and face moves, placing gear where possible until you reach the anchors shared with Wild Things.

Starts near large tree at left side of Orange Wall.  Cut right below large roof.  Go around right side of roof. Then go move back left to anchor.

The obvious left-leaning dihedral line on the right side of the Orange Wall. Funky movement over tiny gear takes you around the thin cracks and eventually a very tenuous move back left at the bolt. From here, pull hard through overhanging jugs and run it out to the ledge (belayer ready for big fall). Feather in some gear behind the flake, then move up through some fun features on dirty, slabby rock. Slither up a slot and onto the anchor pedestal shared with Midget Madness.

Orange Menace is a steep sport  line just left of the classic Comfortizer.  To start, move through the first bolt of Comfortizer, then step left to follow four bolts, one grey and three brown hangers up the steep arete.  From the second bolt move through a balancy and hard to decipher overhang. Then move right and up to the giant fin passing a bolt along the way.  From here move up and left on good holds, clipping another bolt, until you reach the headwall. Thin, balancy, and tricky climbing lead past the final bolt to a jug.  Easy moves take you  to the anchor.

A squeeze job? Maybe, but it's better than its neighbors, so there!Start up the detached blocks just right of Graduation to a high first bolt. Enjoy the juggy overhang to a stance below a vertical face. Moving between the second and third bolts is the crux and can be done multiple ways, all of which are fun. Grab the lip, traverse left (ignore the piton), and pull onto the ledge. Follow the dirty chute up past several more bolts to a fun stemming finish.

 

Do the direct start to Tangerine Dream, a little grovelly, and then edge through a short but spectacular face section.  Shake out at a flake jug before committing to the crux bulge.   

  Here you can power up to the "knob-pocket" and head left, using a sloping series of rails and a heal hook to gain a big flake, or more straight up from the "knob-pocket" doing a mantle/press to a sloping ball-crimp.  Either way is hard!  Like really hard! 

  Rest a bit and end in the shallow dihedral via lock-offs, lie-backing, and keeping your freshly noodled arms in check.  Don't fall clipping the anchors - that would be heart breaking.

This entry is for 1st pitch. Some strenuous climbing (but with generally good holds) climbs up to a small roof and over.

This route starts by heading up the left curving crack about 5' left of the start for Wild Things. Work your way up slightly awkward, but cool moves through the crack until you can access a small stance just left of the roof. From there, pull steep moves on awesome jugs past two bolts and a few gear placements until you reach a roof below the anchors. Pull into the slot to get to the anchors.

Named for its distinctive color, this wall hosts some of the best routes at Madrone.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (2) Orange Wall