Excellent approach and descent info is here:

Mount Royal (near Frisco)

This is a 5.8 climb put up by a 5.13 climber for 5.8 leaders. This route is so much fun, I know I will be driving back all the way from Utah to do it again soon. Thanks to the hard work of Texas Tower Tim Toula, the climbers of Frisco have their own little "Big Wall" that is intelligently protected, with harder variation pitches available for those seeking more challenging climbing, with excellent pitch after pitch of outstanding climbing.

MANY OF THE 15-30m PITCHES MAY BE LINKED OR SIMUL-CLIMBED. The stated number of roped pitches is for clarity, ease of route finding, and ease of partner communication. With that said, when linking pitches, verbal and/or visual communication may be seriously impaired or impossible due to the wandering nature of the route as well as incessantly loud noise pollution from busy I-70. The route offers super fun cruising with memorable movement.

All belays are bolted. Please leave the rappel links and/or carabiners left at the stations for those who need to rappel the route. Many people new to multi-pitch climbs may choose to only climb the lower wall and these stations have been bootyed and re-equipped already numerous times since initially equipping the route. Although first thought to be intended for those new to this type of climbing, popularity has soared raising the number of ascents (as of Nov 2012) to more than 600!

At almost the lowest point or toe of the granite at the base of the climb (7-10 minutes approach time from the car), a nice rope up ledge will be found. Up and right is the start to Royal Rocklette Arete.

[Editor's Note: This was originally submitted as a 20 pitch route, but I doubt anyone has ever done it in that many.  With a 60m, it is easy to do in 6-8 roped pitches, plus some unroped walking.  Judging from comments and my own experience, that is the norm, so I have changed the official pitch count to 8.  See comments for common ways to link pitches.  My preference:

P1-3: combine #1-12 below with some walking easy.  There are so many anchors, just pick one when you think you're running out of rope.

P4: combine #13-14 below

P5: combine #15-16 below

P6: combine #17-20 below

-Nick Wilder]

Pitch #1: Climb up the middle of the slab past a couple of bolts passing few obstacles to a two-bolt belay platform. 5.4, 20m.

Pitch #2: Follow a black streak straight up to another two-bolt belay. 5.5, 15m.

Pitch #3: Pass an overlap protected by a bolt and some natural protection opportunities to a two-bolt belay. 5.6, ~15m.

Pitch #4: Lead up and right passing 4 -5 bolts. Four different  variations are available for this pitch alone, which may lead to some confusion, but trend right for the  ongoing pitches. 5.6, 15m.

Pitch #5: Choose 5.10 out slightly left or 5.6 angling right and up a groove to a White Crystal rock spur to one of 2 two bolt belays. 5.6, 20m.

Pitch #6: Traverse right (or down & right from the 5.10 var on P #5) on a narrow ledge to a tree and then to the base of a white crystal dike. 4th class, 30m.

Pitch #7: Climb the White Crystal Groove either going through Joe's 5.10 mantle variation straight up or start down & right and go to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch #8: Climb past 3 bolts (1st may be hard to spot) up a rib to a belay at two-bolts. At the belay is a plaque in memory of our mutual friend, Swiss Mountain Guide Res von Känel, who died in the Alps during the same time while Tim was doing the FA. Royal Flush is similar to many long "Plaisir" climbs in Switzerland. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch #9: Third class (exposed) up and then mostly 2nd class left traversing past 2 small, grungier buttresses. Follow cairns/faint trail, 60+ m.

Pitch #10: The White Rib Pitch. Joe's Cracks are nice offerings to the left (5.6) or pass 3 bolts on a slabby pillar (5.7) and belay near a snag. 30m.

Pitch #11: Go straight up (5.10) or out right up the Grey Beard Slab past a roof and more slab to a two-bolt belay. 5.6, 30m.

Pitch #12: Follow cairns up scree to the base of the apron of the Headwall. 3rd class, ~150m.  Look for the bolt line just to the right of a large pine at the base of the Apron.

Pitch #13: Climb a classic pitch up a white streak with memorable holds past 1 pin & 5 bolts. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch #14:  Continue past 3 more bolts & cross the gully at the top of the Apron moving left of the prominent cleft dihedral system of Mount Royal to the "Headwall" past 2 bolts to one of 2 two bolt belays. Use the left anchor for the 5.9 version of P15.  This anchor is hidden until you walk to the left on a 1 foot ledge system. 5.7, 20m.

Pitch #15: Continue straight up (5.10) from right anchor or from the left anchor to a tricky 5.9 system of steep grooves. These merge after 5 bolts.  Interesting moves to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, ~18m.

Pitch #16: Continue up some in-cut, black-colored plaques passing through a fun Gunks-like roof and belay at Yosemite Ledge with a two bolt belay. 5.8, ~18m.

Pitch #17: Climb up to the Grey Shelf past a few bolts. Some small Camalots may be useful here. 5.8, ~18m.

Pitch #18: Climb through some blocky roofs with funky rock past a ledge and a two-bolt belay near a tree. A wall register is found here...spray away. 5.8, ~18m.

Pitch #19: Follow up a coarse, dirt-filled gully slinging pine trees for protection. Beware of some loose rock. Two bolt belay. Exposed 3rd class, 30m.

Pitch #20: Surmount loose blocks to the summit and a sign that asks hikers not to throw rocks due to climbers below. 3rd class, 10m.

Though descent via rappel is always an option if inclement weather strikes, from the top, walking off to the south on a great trail which drops down to the town of Frisco is best.  Stay south, going down a bit, and then back up a hill for a total of 1/4 mile until turning left and walking downhill. If you're not on a major trail, you probably tried to head downhill too early.  30-45 minutes.

Royal Flush

Aces High

The Far West

Royal Rocklette Arête

Crown Royal

"Aces High" follows a steep buttress 20m left of the toe of the Chimney on the Royal Headwall. This line is 80m left of the standard

Royal Flush

line that climbs the apron to the chimney. The full 60m route begins in a flat landing between the largest trees at the base of the end of the headwall chimney at a large, detached flake. Stand atop the flake and clip the first bolt and let the game begin. The second bolt is high above behind a 8’ pine. Follow the bolts straight above, over a steep slab and 3 small roofs, to a pair of double ring anchors on Lovers' Ledge. From the anchors, rap with 2-60m ropes OR traverse 20m right on Lovers' Ledge to the first set of 2-bolt anchors on

Royal Flush

and continue on up from there OR move another 5m right to the 2nd set of Royal Flush anchors and climb up from there (best pitch on the Flush!). You could potentially rap with one 60m rope from the

Royal Flush

anchors to the chimney/slab anchors, and do one more partial rap down the slab, staying close to the slot, and downclimb the 5.4 slab for 30m to the talus field/base. This route has been bolted a bit differently from the

Royal Flush

, a bit more spicy/spacious. Enjoy, the bolts are there where you need them and it offers an exciting alternative/bypass to the excellent

Royal Flush

line.

Gain the upper Royal face by climbing the lower pitches of

Royal Flush

or

Royal Rocklette

. Bushwhack and scramble west towards the right hand skyline of the Royal face, look for a left-facing corner with a hand crack about 100 feet off the ground.

Pitch 1. Climb a clean, run-out slab through some suspicious flakes, pull a protected overlap to gain the left-facing, corner-hand crack 5.6 R, 100 feet. Build a belay (#2 BD) in the corner next to a small tree.

Pitch 2. Step over the tree to the right. shoot up through some steep terrain with good gear and good holds, 5.6, 120 feet. Belay at a nice ledge off of a big boulder.

Pitch 3. Traverse left out into some blocky cracks, then hop over to the right side of the buttress and climb up the groove, take care on what you pull on, 5.6, 120 feet.

Pitch 4. Climb up the arete, 5.5, and belay on the large terrace above the central chimney.

Pitch 5. Climb up super lose terrain or climb a nice 5.7 finger crack to the left of a pine tree, 50 feet.

Descend down the Mt. Royal trail.

This new addition climbs lower wall slab (The Raclette) pitches and joins the

Royal Flush

variation pitches at the middle sector and then horizontally crosses the boulderfield and continues up the Northeast Ridge (arete) to the summit of Mount Royal. For clarity, the 2nd and 3rd class sections are counted as pitches. The first 7 (most frequently climbed) pitches may be confused for being part of Royal Flush but can serve as an alternative start to avoid crowding on RF.

The route was equipped and climbed and cleaned ground up.  With that said, wear helmets and pull down with caution and mindful of other climbers.  Very fun! In general, the rock is excellent.

Though a "Plaisir" (casual, fun, well protected) climb like

Royal Flush

, one move of obligatory 5.10a climbing is required.  All belays are bolted.

Approach as for

Royal Flush

and find the start about 25m up and right. Once on route and following the cairns on the mid sector scree fields, it is pretty straightforward to stay the course.

Pitch #1: Easy slab up great rock to a two-bolt belay. 5 bolts, 5.5, 30m.

Pitch #2: Continue up a short section with fun features. 2 bolts, 5.5, 15m.

Pitch #3: Climb beautiful rock up and right passing a small overhang. 5 bolts, 1 piton, 5.7, 20m.

Pitch #4: Climb straight up to the big ledge at the base of the White Crystal Dike Pitch of

Royal Flush

to a two bolt belay. 1 bolt, 5.5, 15m.

Pitch #5:   Continue straight up from the anchors up great rock to a cruxy overhang. 6 bolts, 5.10b, 25m.

Pitch #6: As for

Royal Flush

, cross a broad ledge and climb a face to a faint spur to the Res von Känel memorial plaque belay. 5 bolts, 5.8,  25m.

Pitch #7: A short pitch to finish the lower wall. 2 bolts, 5.5, 15m.

Pitch #8: Move right around a tree and gain a big ledge. Follow cairns to the left as for

Royal Flush

and hike to the base of the "white rib" pitch. 3rd class, 100m.

Pitch #9: Climb the excellent white rib pitch to a two-bolt belay next to a dead snag. 6 bolts, 5.7, 20m.

Pitch #10: Climb straight up passing interesting, small roofs and facial features finishing the mid-wall sector. 7 bolts, 5.8, 25m.

Pitch #11: Now you are on the upper boulder field where cairns will lead you either straight up to the

Royal Flush

Apron or for RRA, follow cairns that lead left and to the base of the rock.  Continue on a trail to the base of the NE arete. A piece of red tat is tied around a tree marking the start of the following pitches. 2nd class, 150m.

Pitch #12: Climb up the slab to the first of several overhangs. The first roof past the 2nd bolt is the well-protected, tricky crux. Surmount it and continue up easier terrain past a white crystal rockband to the next interesting overhang and continue to the belay on a small ledge. 7 bolts, 5.11a, 25m.

Pitch #13:  Climb straight up to a roof and turn it to the right and continue up the beautiful, blunt arete to a nice belay ledge. 6 bolts, 5.10a, 30m.

Pitch #14: Move up and right past a steep step finishing the pitch climbing a pillar-like section avoiding some looseness to the belay. 3 bolts, 5.7, 30m.

Pitch #15: Wall Register here...spray away. Dirty and loose, but easy climbing up some cruxy steep step-like features to a two-bolt belay. 4 bolts, 5.8, 50m.

Pitch #16: Bearing right or as much on the ridge as possible, pass a bolt on a dirty slab to another steep step. Climb some face moves to an OW and the final two bolt belay. 2 bolts, 5.6, 50m.

Pitch #17: Climb through steep boulders, some sections of which are quite loose and belay where needed. 4th class, 60m.

Pitch #18: Continue on easy scrambling to El Cumbre. 4th class, 60m.

Descend via the Mount Royal Hiking trail to the south.

Started out and scoped out by locals T4 and Peter, I joined in the fun for helping to wrap it up. As with other Royal routes, the pitch count and length can be either viewed as somewhat exaggerated or limited. It depends on your viewpoint. As Tim and Peter like to frequent these routes with people with less experience and stay within vocal and visual contact as much as possible, a belay is often available at the ledges before continuing.  Other climbers will inevitably choose to link pitches and therefore report a much smaller number of climbing pitches.

Loose rock, lichen, and moss still exists, and though less consistent quality climbing may be available as for

Royal Flush

or

Royal Rocklette Arête

, some outstanding pitches are to be found on Crown Royal.

Just after the bike path sign, duck in to the woods on a well worn trail. Follow it for about 30m passing a piece of cord around a tree (if it is still there!), and then turn right and parallel the bike path onto no real obvious trail until reaching a prominent blobby formation of slab. A few more "markers" may be visible assisting in locating the beginning of the route. The first bolt may be visible about 10m up from the start.

Pitch #1: Climb up pleasant step-like slab up great rock to a ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.8, 25m.

Third Class up and left a via faint not too exposed trail and slab through the ledges to the next pitch. Find a cord around a tree possibly marking the belay. 40m, 1 bolt may be on the slab available for those who wish to belay this section.

Pitch #2: Climb to a roof, clip a bolt and trend up passing a few bolts and right to a slab and "wasserrinne" easily avoiding a loose looking, yet appealing flake on the right to a two-bolt belay. 5.7, 20m.

Pitch #3: "The coffee table pitch". Continue up and right up thin slab finally traversing past a dead snag and up to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 20m.

Pitch #4: Climb a short easy and fun, but still dirty slab passing a bolt and fixed piton to a ledge. Walk up further and belay off one of the massive trees. 5.5, 20m.

Pitch #5: Continue up excellent rock passing some fixed protection towards a prominent arête and belay in a gully and two-bolt belay. 5.9, 15m.

Pitch #6: Cross the gully and climb a short finger crack to face moves over a tricky bulge to the awaiting crowning / arête above and great views in most directions to a  two-bolt belay. 5.9+, 20m.

Pitch #7: Go straight back to the base of the the next section of rock.  Climb the line of least resistance up a broken section of cliff. Pass a piton toward its end. Belay in the trees. 5.6, 25m.

Now, the climbers will find themselves at the start of the mid-wall scree field with Royal Flush up and right and the cairns leading toward

Royal Rocklette Arête

to the left. Scramble towards the wall and head towards the Arête. The next pitch begins about 15m to the right of

Royal Rocklette Arête

and at the base of the same wall.

Pitch #8: Climb a finger layback crack or wider crack to the right to a slabby bulge. Pass three bolts trending left to a dirty gully and reach a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 31m.

Pitch #9: Ascend the gully past some pruning work to a bolt in a corner. Tip toe up and left traversing an exposed steep ledge system to the corner and gear belay. 5.7, 25m.

Pitch #10: Climb up the ridge line following disconnected cracks trending left to an upper bolt on Pitch #13 of

RRA

and continue following that line to the summit. 5.7, 30m.

Description

Protection

Routes in Mount Royal (near Frisco)