Written in 2007: After careful inspection on rappel, this route is somewhat a mystery to me.  I solo-toproped the first pitch, which is a fun 10+, but could not find the rest of the route.  An impressive roof sits directly on top of the anchors for the 5.10, but no means of protecting it seem to exist.  No bolts, no space for natural gear.   I eased myself off of the anchors of the first pitch into space, and jugged up the rope for the last 1-2 pitch(es), which were covered in lichen.     After asking several people about it, the route is still a question mark.  If anyone can speak to the status of the route, please do.  

  Dec 2008 Update: I've heard back from a couple of people who tell me that the route went free on lead.  Very cool.  If so, from the look of it, I'd say it's one of the most attractive and intimidating free routes in MN.  I hope we get to hear from Dahlberg about the first ascent, or from someone else who's given it a go.   

  Also possible to aid at C3.

The Great Barrier Roof

Narcoleptic Epic

Ego-itis

Balance of Power

The Tree Route

Soldier of God

Did Plato Love Trees?

The Great Yawn

Sacred Biscuit

Rise Over Run

Straw House

Straight, No Chaser

Only The Lonely

A Dream of White Sheep

Wake Up and Smell the Coffee

A Study in Scarlet

Dance of the Sugar-Plum Faeries

Gold Plated

Out On A Limb

Cornered

Gravity Assist

Ross's Crack

This route has recently been cleaned top to bottom (see below). Start on a 5.9 pitch, and get set up at a belay below the roof. Second pitch is a really cool imposing overhang. Bolts for much of the route, but as below, it sounds like there are a couple of important #1 and a #0.75 cam placements to get through the upper section.  This route is well worth the effort of setting up to toprope, and it is out of character for most of Shovel Point. The moves to get through the roof are classic, and the exit from the roof is a tricky, balancey little sequence.

No single crux, just continuous highly-technical stemming in a smooth dihedral.  On the lead the pro is solid but sometimes requires patience to find and get in. (and you won't likely be feeling real patient!)  Nice spot for a belayer at the bottom of the route.  Otherwise, toprope it and just enjoy the moves.

Begin route moving up and right to the edge of the arete. Work past two small overhangs up to the top. Crux is balancing up on a small knob and using tiny edges.

A reasonably good, long route.  The line is probably not too important - just about anywhere you climb in  between here and "Straight, No Chaser" is about 5.10.

A good introductory route. Very short and fun. Lower to the ledge about 30 ft down.

Three pitches. Pitch 1: Start at the end of the talus and climb up to the base of the Ross's Crack dihedral and belay. Pitch 2: Traverse up and right, then down and right, and belay below the "Faeries" slab. Pitch 3: Finish up left of the slab.

A fun climb beginner climb, that is also very leadable.  When I lead it I rapped down to a small ledge (maybe 25 ft above the water) and built an anchor and climbed up from there.  If you are top roping you can lower all the way down to the water.  The route follows a dihedral with a large crack in it and allows for some good jamming. 

 RCM&W #23, p.235.

A fun climb with a very very technical crux on a slab/crack with little friction.  Go left of the first roof, and right of the second to find the aesthetic crux crack.  A proud route to on-sight, this thing is no gimme.

A fun moderate climb. From the ledge climb face holds up the corner. This climb is a little less traveled than the other moderates and has a bit of moss.

Excellent work, Mr. Harkness, for giving us this line.  It's the best at the cliff, and not deadly for the grade (probably a little soft).  It hits the best position at Shovel Point, the rock is good, and the moves are surprisingly easy for the feature that you climb.     It's a small miracle that the rock is just featured enough in this spot as to allow such a magnificent line.

Farris says: Just to the right of The Tree Route.  Pass to the right of the dying tree, and join the Tree Route near the top.  Instead of the same finish, finish in a short crack above the flake.   The exact line is not that important (to me, I guess - maybe to others it is). If you set up a rope for either of these routes, there are then several ways to enjoy the rock on the way up.  It all climbs well, it's all 5.10, and its all clean.

A little more technical than Rise over Run or Out on a Limb - be ready to jam your foot into a smooth flared crack and stand up.  Crux is about 2/3 up, where you need to make a big move up to an almost-deadpoint (depending on your height) jug.  

I don't remember there being a specific crux, but I think it was a little harder towards the bottom.  At the bottom, staying to the left earns you full 5.9 credit, and a slightly easier variation is found on the climber's right.  I remember doing a lot of stemming. 

 RCM&W #11, p.232.

Boy, this one's a stinker. I made the mistake once, after a long day of solo toproping, and with waning light, to set up a solo on Narcoleptic Epic.  The sole of my left foot was a little injured, so I was wearing supportive clunker shoes that didn't hurt so much.     I spent about two minutes in the Narcoleptic Epic corner, realized I wasn't going to make it there with the shoes and the pain, and tried to figure out how to escape.     This dirty death trap was what I figured out.  It ascends the big filthy fin to the right of the corner, with surprise(!) loose blocks, and enough lichen to feed a professional football team.   

Enjoy this one if you aren't up to the task of eating the Sacred Biscuit.  It hits similar terrain with a similar style of climbing, but without the awesome crux of the Biscuit.   You could probably eye the Biscuit if you set up a rope on this line.

As of now (05/18/2020) the route is closed to climbing due to peregrine falcon nesting.As of 09/06/2020 nothing is closed due to falcon nesting This is a large slab that contains four different variations listed from climbers left to right. Don't forget your camera, this route allows great views of the climber below set against the turquoise backdrop of Lake Superior. Because of its high quality, closer proximity to the parking lot, and variability in difficulty, this is one of the most popular climbs at Shovel Point. #1 (5.7) climb the inside corner. #2 (5.8) climb the left side of the face using the small crack and other hold. #3 (5.10b/c) climb the middle of the face using smaller holds. #4 (5.10d) climb the right side of the face if you are lucky enough to find any holds. I usually set up one rope to climb #1 and #2 and another rope to climb #3 and #4.

Lower down to a small ledge just before you are completely surrounded by the namesake bright yellow lichen.  Climb up somewhat broken and dirty overhung rock to the top, climbing two roofs in route.  A fun route well worth doing but the dirtiness and slightly chossy nature of the rock detracts from the climb a bit in my opinion.

A mild step up from the difficulty of The Great Yawn, Out On a Limb begins, appropriately, on a ledge with an elegantly curving branch.     It begins easy, tackles thin edges for the feet at the crux (which is marked by a half inch dinosaur), and finishes on easy terrain.     As with all the climbs on the far end, it is satisfying for being directly over water.  Beautiful and fun.

The best 5.9 at the crag, and one of the best 5.9's I've done in MN. Check out Ross's Crack for the next level, and a superior route to this one.     Probably leadable, but make sure to scout it out first.

A lot of stone on this line required a gravity assist to make the transition to talus.  It now climbs and protects decently, but there could still be some loose stuff. For TR ascents you have little choice but to anchor from trees. For the rare lead, a tree at the start makes a convenient anchor.  Climb mostly 5.7-5.8 crack and face, then as you reach the top, head left below a small overhang. Finish on a very thin crack and face (crux) on the overhang's left side. Just for the fun of it, we also did a finish via a loose, blocky, 5.10+ hand crack that cuts through the overhang...not recommended.

I have only ever top roped this route from above, but it is also possible to lead it in 2 pitches.  The first pitch is reported to be 5.8 and mediocre.  For top roping lower about 60 feet to a tree and climb the dihedral stemming your way to the top.  There are several old pins within the thin crack, that are about the only protection I remember towards the top if you were leading it.

The more moderate of Tettegouche's two sea cliff crags, Shovel is more popular with boy scout troops, church groups and top ropers.  This notwithstanding, more than a handfull of full value classics are to be found here.  Must-dos include Dance of the Sugarplum Fairies, Gold Plated, Rosses Crack and others. 

  This spot is popular with tourists as well and they will likely watch you climb and ask you questions. 

  You are encouraged to stay on the trails and use the new statepark placed anchors (the biggest bolt hangers ever!).  Be kind to the trees as well...

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shovel Point