The crux comes right off the ground and is basically a boulder problem getting past the first bolt, about V5.  Bring a stick clip for the first bolt or you can solo up the 5.easy southeast face and rap to the anchor bolts, then rap down the route again to get a draw clipped on the bolt.  A new bolt is going to be added soon so that a stick clip won't be necessary.  This is a great route with a stout boulder problem off the ground to exciting arete climbing higher up.  The upper section is a somewhat consistent 5.10.

Shell Shock

Egg Face

Egghead

Coffee and Cigarettes

This is your Brain on Drugs

Green Eggs and Ham

Sign Language

Egg Arete

Get Buck In The Yolk

Junglework

Sunnyside Up

Sunnyside Up lies on the west side of The Egg.  Approach is down south side of The Egg and around corner to south west most face of rock.  This climb is definitely tide dependent with the bottom 10' often wet.  It is also this 10' that is crumbly and the crux even when dry.  Hard, fingery, tiring moves get you finally to an in-balance stance at 3rd bolt.  From here to the top is very sustained hard 10 face moves up interesting featured rock.  A very fun route and worth doing even if you have to aid a little at the bottom!

Egg Face is the lower angle face on the East side of The Egg.  Egg Face goes up past two bolts to top anchor.  The moves are thin but holds are there.  Difficult to see as they blend with the color and character of the rock.  The runout after the second bolt eases to 5.4 or so.  Don't fall clipping the second bolt as this may result in hitting the ground...

This route is the leftmost route on the north face of the rock. It can be seen from the downhill approach.

This is a TOUGH "5.11b". Clip the 1st bolt before you get off the ground or you'll really be sorry. Finding the non-existant feet on the bottom part of the route is what makes this tough, though if you're flexable there's another (scary) option. This is a 5.11b after you get to the second bolt, where the climbing gets searchy, reachy, and interesting. The lieback at the top is great fun if you're not too pumped from the lower sections of the route.

This route climbs over the bulge on the left side of the east face.  Friction climbing with the occasional crimp leads to an interesting crux above the bulge.

A nice route for practicing rock-overs.

This is your Brain on Drugs starts just right of the Egghead start and may even use holds from Egghead (and visa versa) depending on how you do the moves.  From second bolt move right using tiny crimper to a small but good hold that you can match on.  Continue right on very small hand and foot holds and up to small bulge.  Go over bulge, moving up and left on small holds continuing up to anchors. This route requires strong fingers and good footwork and is very continuous with several cruxes.

I felt like this was a better route than Egg Face (5.9) to the right. There was an interesting move after the first bolt and then the crux is probably after the second bolt.

Find this route on the far right side of the north face of the rock. It can be tide dependant for the belay stance, though standing on the prominent rock behind the climb will help in all but the highest of tides. An interesting balancy route with great ocean views. Near the top avoid the temptation of heading way right, as the rock there is quite loose.

This easy face climb starts on the east side of The Egg sharing the first bolt with Egg Face.  After clipping the first bolt, traverse right and up a few moves to second bolt.  A long runout from here to the top over easy ground could be intimidating for a beginner leader.  A ground fall for sure if you fall just prior to clipping final anchor!

A tricky start before the first bolt, then some easier slab to this big flake feature. Lieback/undercling leftward, then step over and finish with one or two easy moves to get to the anchor.

When I climbed this it was still shedding little bits of rock, but it should clean up nice.

This route uses the same start as Egghead.  Just after 2nd bolt, move up and right about 5' and then straight up steep face to anchors.  I am not sure if the one good hold on the base of the ramp of Egghead is valid but to me this seems the appropriate way to do the route.  Very sustained fingery moves on small but good sharp holds.  At places, feet are very thin.  An alternative start which then makes a very straight up route is to use the start of This is your Brain on Drugs.  At first bolt, go up and slightly left to base of Egghead ramp.  Good rock and hard continuous moves makes this a satisfying route. Even the last move to the bucket right of the anchors is a challenge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Egg