This is a fantastic climb on a large formation with an awesome summit.  Pitch one;  Climb up a large dihadral/corner system, past two bolts, past 5.9 Owth section to a belay from 2 FP on the left.  There are a few loose blocks on this pitch as well, so be careful.  Pitch 2;  climb up the dihedral more (past 2 bolts) into a chimney  (squeeze) and a belay ledge just past the notch on the left. (Triple bolt belay/rap station).  Pitch three;  Climb up past one bolt, to a thin aid crack which widens to hands, then leads to a belay with 3 bolts.  The 4th pitch ascends a bolt ladder with 17 bolts in a row.  The bolts traverse up and right around the backside of the formation.

The Throne (King on a Throne)

Shangri-La

Totem Pole

Totem Pole "Never Never Land" route

pitch 1, starting in saddle between Rabbit/Bear climb 110' pitch of 5.10a with a move of A.0, or a couple moves of aid to make the climbing about 5.8 C.1. pitch 2, 100', 5.7+ climbing ends at good ledge with two bolts   pitch 3, 5.9+ LB, 70' ends at ledge just left of the 3rd pitch.    pitch 4, The hardest climbing I've ever done, it felt like 5.12+X- but essentially is a scree slope in a chimney with stacked rocks that only connect to one side of wall! (Bjornstad said of this pitch, "a long gully/chimney (very rotten) was climbed")- I think the correct term was swam. Watch for rope drag.   pitch 5 40', is gravy and leads to middle of summit.

The Totem Pole is the tallest , skinniest spire on the planet.  Pitch one;  goes up a left slanting aid crack.  This is followed by the wide section.  There was a fixed block of wood part way up, and then you need either VERY large cams or those super large big Bros....or I used large cams and small sections of 2" by 4" blocks of wood side by side to aid off of  (2 in a row)....the first one was one cam and one block of wood..the 2nd being one cam and 2 blocks of wood....(It works;..it was dicey..)...   Pitch 2 is the cool 100' splitter....hand size...we aided it, but I bet it would go free at 5.11.  ...it's awesome.  The last pitch is a bit of aid , and then a long bolt ladder;....The bolt ladder has been dicked with...when we did it, it was missing the last 2 bolts, which we banged in pins, and made it to the top.  At one time, most of the bolts were missing , and you had to hook in the holes;..very scary.  The summit is the best on the planet.  There are lots of bolts on top, from various commercial ventures.

The back side route (original was chopped in 1975 by Bjornstad and Wyrick for "Eiger Sanction" filming.   p1, 5.11+ lb to 5.10 OW or C1 120' to big ledge   p2, 5.10- or 5.9 C1, 90'   p3, C1+ and poor bolt ladder, 90'

Monument Valley is on the Navajo Indian Reservation in the 4 corners area of the Colorado Plateau.  It is in NE Arizona, and SE Utah.  It is 29,817 acres, and at an elevation of 5564 feet. The Tribal Park was established in 1958 by the Navajo Tribe.  There is a visitor's center, a small campground, and a 1-way dirt road loop you can drive for a small fee.  Climbing is illegal in the Tribal Park, as well as hiking off the loop road.  There are a few residential homes here and there in the Tribal Park, and locals try to sell various crafts to the tourists around the Tribal Park.  This area is one of the planet's most scenic wonders, and the rock formations in the Tribal Park are some of the world's most amazing rock formations, pinnacles, mesas, spires, and cliffs. It is an area of unbelievable beauty.  This area has been photographed to the point where the whole world has seen the vistas, views, scenes, and formations of this amazing area.  Hollywood has also taken advantage of this area, and Monument Valley has been the backdrop for many movies and TV commercials. One of the Tribal Parks more amazing spires is The Totem Pole, perhaps the world's tallest and skinniest spire.  The Navajo Tribe has strictly stuck to their rule of no rock climbing in the Tribal Park, but with Hollywood money, we have seen Clint Eastwood and George Kennedy "climb" the Totem Pole, McGyver land a handglider on the Totem Pole's summit, and Xerox put a desk with a secretary on top of the Pole's summit as well.  There have been clandestine ascents of most of the area's formations, and I believe a few climbers have been caught climbing in the Park and had their gear taken away from them.  It is probably best NOT to climb in the Tribal Park, especially the formations on and near the one-way dirt loop road.  Some of the other formations away from the Tribal Loop Road are less scrutinized by the Tribal Authorities, and are less of a risk for would-be poachers.  Still, it is against The Navajo Tribes wishes and laws to climb within the Tribal Park, and anywhere on the Navajo Indian Reservation, for that matter, and most people adhere to their wishes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Monument Valley