Square Top defines the eastern walls that tower over Sulphur Canyon. The hike is long, steep and obnoxious and the climbing is mediocre. However, the most redeeming quality of the climb is the outstanding, sobering views of the southern Swell.

Park in a wash along the Reds Canyon Road south-southeast of the summit of Square Top (38.7676, -110.8920). Hike east and then north up the wash as you circumnavigate the eastern flanks of the peak. When you're on the northeastern side of the peak, locate and scramble up a talus/slab gully to Square Top's north ridge. Fun, easy scrambling/hiking leads to the summit plateau before the final “square.” Near the top, please be mindful of cryptobiotic soil. Expect ~1-1.5 hour approach.

Walk around to the southwest side of the “square” and locate the only reasonable angling crack to the summit. Sandy, crumbly slab climbing (2 bolts), leads to a roof. Pull the roof, without pulling too many handholds off (crux) and continue up easier ground to the top (1 more bolt).

It should be noted that the bolt hardware is sketchy (despite FA in 2017?). The bolts are 2 inch long Hilti EZ screws and can easily be unscrewed by hand. Use caution!

Square Top – Southwest Face Crack

Point 6,615 – Southwest Ridge

Desert Guardian

Pitch 1- Start on the SW corner of the tower and climb the obvious chimney with chockstones in the back of it to a two bolt belay on a nice ledge.  5.8R  90 feet.

(You can also avoid the chimney by 4th class scrambling to the right of the chimney up a very loose gully system, but the chimney is good).

Pitch 2- Move the belay up to a nice, sandy, flat area in the middle of group of summits.  Face west and climb a 5.9+ crack to a ledge.  Look left and clip a bolt.  5.10 face climbing left and up leads to another bolt.  An aid move leads to one more bolt, then C2 climbing leads to 5.8 climbing to gain a ledge below the summit pinnacle.  5.8+ R climbing leads to a two bolt belay at the summit.  There is a summit register under some rocks on the top.

To Descend, rappel the route.

Hidden near the headwaters of Sulphur Canyon is Point 6,615 – a surprisingly tall butte/tower – with a fun, moderate desert mountaineering route. Begin from Reds Canyon Road (38.7640, -110.9152) and hike up Sulphur Canyon where 6,615 becomes more prominent and obvious. At a fork in the wash, take the right fork (38.7743, -110.9130) and hike up the eastern wash (The western wash also works but might be just a tad longer). Hike north along the east side of 6,615 where the southwest ridge route is obvious but is guarded by a short cliff band. To bypass this cliff, try to locate an old uranium mining road, not obvious, on the northeast side of the peak. Follow this road to an abandoned mine.

Once you've reached the abandoned mine, scramble up to an upper bench and hike back south to the base southwest ridge. I would assume this route has seen at least 3 other ascents based on the mix of hardware found on the route.

There are two options for the first pitch:

Pitch 1 (Option 1) 5.4?, 80-100 feet?:

This is likely what the FA ascent party did. I haven't personally climbed this pitch but it certainly has to be better than the start we did. Hike around to the north side of the southwest ridge and scramble up a slickrock bowl to the base of the ridge at a fixed pin belay. There is at least 1 fixed pin before reaching the belay. My guess is 5.4. Maybe harder. Maybe easier.

Pitch 1 (Option 2) 5.6, ~60-80 feet:

Climb the start of the ridge directly up a chossy crack to a 2 fixed pin belay. Expect loose exploding white sandstone. All feet and hands are suspect. Not recommended.

Pitch 2 – 5.6 PG-13, 80-100 feet:

From the belay, climb up a short step to a blank slab. Motor on slab past fixed pins (some, but not much additional/supplemental gear) to a fixed pin belay. Pitch 2 and 3 are easily combined.

Pitch 3 – 5.3 60-80 feet:

Continue up the arete on easy slab to another fixed pin belay.

Pitch 4 – 5.8, 100 feet:

From the belay, easy slab leads to a obvious large crack in the arete (no OW technique needed). The crack is a bit awkward with soft rock which leads to another fixed pin belay on a big ledge. Some fixed pins are found on this pitch. Good nuts/cams back up the pins.

Pitch 5 – 5.8, 100 feet:

This pitch has some interesting new hardware. From the previous belay walk up and locate the obvious, oddly placed, new looking bolts (wtf?). Traverse (left to right) passing the bolts (not necessary?) to a decent fixed pin. A one-move-wonder (5.8) mantle leads to a chossy bench. Easy scrambling with loose blocks lead to another fixed pin anchor.

Pitch 6 – 3rd class, 100 feet:

Another 100 feet of scrambling through loose blocks/rock leads to the summit. Fantastic views.

Decent:

We used a single 70M rope and were able to combine some pitches. A single 60M will work but each pitch will have to be rappelled individually.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sulphur Canyon Area