Pitch 1: Start in the 10 ft tall chimney, mantle and arrive at a bolt that protects some loose offwidth/sport until a solid hand crack. Climb an amazing hand crack that eventually turns into a chimney, arrive at a 3 bolt anchor (5.9+)(90 ft). Pitch 2: Make a few (5.7) moves in a hand crack and arrive into a large chimney, stay out of the chimney and face climb (sparsely protected) the remainder of the pitch at easy 5th class, arrive at a 2 bolt anchor(30 ft).

Wally's Route

Deception

Second-hander

Start on the left side with a huge broken chimney, arrive at a bolt and traverse right (5.10C) passing another bolt. Arrive at a 8 ft section of loose, flaring offwidth that is protected by a bolt. Reach high and jam solid, wonderful thin hands for the remaining 60 feet. The last ten feet narrows down to thin hands/wide fingers (5.10+) to a two bolt anchor.

Start in the right facing dihedral. The climb starts out wide hands, which turns to offwidth, then turning to fingers. This climb is also very fun to try out some body stemming. 2 bolt anchor.

There are climbs in both North and South exposure, but overall west aspect.  The rock quality is mostly good and resembles Zion rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cottonwood Mesa