A short, bouldery route on far left of Gateway Rock. Nice jugs on steep terrain down low lead to slabbish climbing on the upper section.  Well bolted.

Woof Toof Noof Roof

Portal

Garden Wall

A Little More Hoof

General Mayhem

Major Distraction

Forrest

Drive By Shooting

Road Rage

Green Thumb

Flake Out

Cruise up fourth class slab action past two bolts to a small ledge and the third bolt. While the third bolt may seem too low to do any good, it's a good idea to clip it to keep the rope out of your crotch if you come off above it. (Not speaking from experience, really!)   

  The climbing above is significantly steeper and trickier generally using the left edge of the headwall near the top. You can pop left to a great ledge just below the anchors for a snooze and then work through the final short crack to the anchor.

Starting in the corner between Drive By Shooting and Garden Wall, follow generous holds up a the shallow dihedral though some small plants to the anchor in a bulge.    Fun climbing and appropriate for the area. Like neighboring routes, the hardest move is getting off the ground due to the undercut start. Easier than Green Thumb though.

A fun and long (for Las Conchas) climb on the heavily featured and somewhat vegetated wall just left of Drive By Shooting.  The crux, like many of the climbs at Las Conchas, is getting off the ground. One can meander all around this wall with its many features.  

  For a long time this wall was top-roped off the tree at the top. Anchors and a route up this wall were bolted in late 2006.   

  Lines can be and have been led on this wall using gear but no one line was ever identified and the gear was funky in flaring pockets of fairly crumbly rock. For those reasons I picked one of the more natural lines on the wall and established this bolt-protected line.  Gear-protected climbing can still be done on either side of this bolted line and still make use of the bolted anchor.

A Little More Hoof is a four-bolt extension to the fun and bouldery Woof Toof Noof Roof.  Climb Woof Toof Noof Roof to its anchor and clip a draw either on one of the anchor bolts for that route or the oddly-place extra third bolt near the anchor and keep going. 

  The first bolt for A Little More Hoof is up and left towards the corner/dihedral above. It's a bit hidden but it's there. Once in the corner stem up and use the face on the right to a small ledge just before it gets steeper. If you're wearing pants, you can get about 5 feet of OW climbing in to the left or just use the block and corner to make your way straight up to the anchor.

A stout V3ish boulder problem through the first couple bolts gives way to slightly easier but sustained climbing.

A steep, featured, route with cool tufa-like rails on the far right side of Gateway Rock. Figure out how to pull up off the ground to a chalked-up tooth and then get to a crack where a .5 camalot previously protected steep moves. Now a couple of bolts protect it. Continue up on nicely featured face and crack climbing passing a number of bolts as the crack gets wider (fist size) and steeper. You don't need crack skills, however, as there are plenty of nice features to grasp along the way.  

  This route was initially climbed on gear and rated 5.11b by the FA party. Consensus suggests it's easier and in the spring of 2011 the route was bolted by an unknown party and a anchor added so gear is no longer necessary. The gear was pretty marginal and this is a very fun line so it sees quite a bit more traffic now with the bolts.  It's not clear whether or not the bolter tried contacting the FA party or even realized this was an established line (although given the length, fun moves and busy location, one should have suspected it had been climbed previously.)

Nice route with the crux going through the bottom few moves. Tricky section in the middle through the bulge.

Lower angled start though a bulge, then easer climbing to the crux bulge above. Hard to find holds at the crux.

Start as for Garden Wall but traverse left once above the undercut start (easier) or go straight up the undercut to the first bolt (harder and height dependent) and move up lichen-covered climbing to anchors.

Great route that would deserve more stars if it were not for the scary fall factor! Watch the wall as you make the crux move using the crimper into the dish! Also, watch where your feet are in relation to the rope, it could make for a bad fall. Route is mellow except for the crux move discussed above.

Beautiful meadow climbing just near the creek. Be prepared for gawking and lots of questions ("who put those bolts up there?; how did you get the rope up there?; did you go to the top?) from the several hikers that use the trail into the canyon.   Get morning sun and afternoon shade.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gateway Rock