North Crack is a fun and worthy outing for those wishing to lead at Moonstone beach. Look for the slightly overhanging dihedral with a hand to off hand crack near the right side of the cliff. Over the years, the rock has cleaned up to be very solid and even a little polished in places. This crack eats gear, but if you mess around too long, it can be a bit pumpy.

No Time aka North Crack

Tea Time

V1 Slab

The Triangles

Leviathan Traverse

Thank You Thighmaster

Launch Toast

Pyramid Rock South Face

Green Stone Traverse

Sticked Wiffy

Launch Toast is the prominent arete on the left of the same formation as North Crack. It starts slightly to the right, then moves left to the arete. Moving from the start to the arete is the first crux. Although the climb can be done by staying on the right side of the arete, most climbers stay on the left side until about ten feet below the anchors and then step back around right for the 2nd crux and sustained crimps to the anchor. Also, try toproping the direct start on the arete for a bonus.

Tea Time takes the diagonal thin crack up right around the arête and to the top,

Easy low-key slab directly opposite from Launch Toast/North Crack. Start on the east-facing slab and work on small feet until you can reach a solid undercling.

The Triangles are the two boulders at the base of Pyramid Rock. Many variations, mainly V0-V1 are found on both Triangles. Eliminates are the name of the game and problems have been done up to V6. These boulders can change height quite a bit depending on sand levels. Most of the problems begin from sit starts.

Traverse the entire base of the formation. Done both ways.

Arete to the Right of North Crack.  Route name by Paul Humphrey. Compression moves up overhanging prow. shares anchors with north crack.

Top rope route on the South face that follows the tallest line. Climbing  8-10 feet to the right is 5.9. Many variations exist to the left and right of the longest line. Good on a full moon!(rare on the coast)

The Green Stone Traverse is an easy warm up for other problems on the north end of the beach. It is generally VB until you drop into the low ball section on the left end. Try to keep your feet on the lowest holds for the biggest value. Fun and unusual holds!

Sticked Wiffy climbs the prominent, sharp arete just east of Pyramid Rock. Start left of the arete using face holds for the first 10 feet. Then the climb is tricky feet with blind arete holds for the right hand and thin crimps for the left. It tops out on the left side of the arete.   Best conditions for an ascent is when temps are in the low fifties with afternoon sun or a good breeze to keep the rock dry.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Rocks