Video of the FA:

imdb.com/title/tt10097958/

This route is the real deal, grade V! Jackie Florine once called this route "Sporty." It's got some crack climb, a left-facing corner, a chimney, and some bolts.

P1: 135 ft. Layback/fists in a right facing corner. Crux of the first pitch: reach left, there's really good holds, bombers. Throw your foot up to the lip and then crank up.

P2: Short chimney. Make your body into a human wedgie. Piton available 20ft up. Possible to climb this with a backpack on.

P3: 75ft, Giant Corner 5.10. Layback on the underside of a large flake.

P4: Flake continues, and becomes thinner and more vertical. Belay station looks almost identical to the previous, so don't be confused if you feel like you're climbing in circles. Bolts.

P5: Pendulum pitch! Lower out and swing left to a flake.

P6: #8 metolius needed for this pitch. Don't drop it! Fingers to cupped hands. Great romantic lunch spot at the belay

P7: 75ft, bolts. Don't go right! Crux pitch, still has some loose rock. From here, there is no turning back:

the only way down is up. **Climb it, or you die.**

Belay ledge is a great spot for a bivy.

P8: 100 ft. Start up the crack to the right of the belay. Splitter hands.

P9: 160 ft. Shallow, right leaning, right facing corner. Mostly fingers, but bring gear to fists. Don't be lured into bad stopper placements. FA party blew gear here.

P10: Similar to previous, but bolted. Pull on the bolt.

P11: 5.10R. Killer fingers!

P12: Do a sick deadpoint to a jug, and finish on the unprotected 5.4 slab.

Finish the route on a 4th class scamble.

To descend: 2 raps, then walk off via Death Gully

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Killer Pillar