The Chief is more fun, steeper, better protected, and more straight-forward than its neighbor War Party (5.11b).  Unfortunately, it isn't any longer.

Hop up on a block, then pull through 3 bolts on an impressively overhanging face using many pockets.  This is a gym-climber's .10c, as it is pretty pumpy for how short it is.

The Chief

Tradfest

18NY

Livin' on a Prayer

Jardinero

Rite of Passage

Feelin' Your Oats

War Party

Far Side Chimney

Near Side Chimney

Initiation Rite

Saviour Heart

Something Good

The Pile

Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless)

Atlas Shrugged

Step To The Left

Forrester's Crack

Shute-Mills Route

At Last

New Tradition

Death to the Right

Cereal Killer

Bushy Crack

Far Out

Atlas

Mystery Hole

Better Eat Your Wheaties

Let's Climb Naked

War Party ascends the north western arete of a small spire that also features the route 'The Chief' (5.10c).  The climbing is slightly overhung with pockets and sidepulls and is difficult to read from the deck.  Good moves, but too short.

Actually, this isn't even a route; instead, it's a highly contrived "multipitch" adventure linking together seven short and moderate trad routes (5.6-5.8) on six pinnacles as you work your way uphill, with very short walks (15-100') between all but the first two routes (only the first two pitches are truly multipitch). The bolts on a few routes can be safely bypassed using gear instead to convert each route into a pure trad route.

Pitch 1 options: Forrester's Crack 5.7 (recommended), Far Side Chimney 5.6, The Pile 5.8, or Near Side Chimney 5.6 [NOTE: These climbs are on the first rock formation when you arrive at the Far Side.]

Pitch 2 options (can be linked with pitch 1): Rite of Passage 5.6 or Initiation Rite 5.6 (recommended). Descend via rappel down the north face. [NOTE: From the top of pitch 1 these climbs continue up the short cracks to a low-angle slab above.]

Pitch 3 options: Old Tradition 5.7 or Old Spice 5.9. Descend via class 4 off west end (rappel down north face not recommended as the rope easily gets stuck). [NOTE: From the top of pitch 2 these climbs are visible on the large rock about 20' directly across the short gap to the north.]

Pitch 4: North Face of Hummingbird Spire 5.7. Rappel off a single but solid bolt. [NOTE: From the top of pitch 3 this climb is on the opposite side of the short tower about 30' directly across the short gap to the north.]

Pitch 5: Planet of the Grapes 5.6. No rappel anchor (unless you leave a sling); descend by lowering your partner down the route and rappelling down the other side of the rock while your partner anchors you. [NOTE: After climbing pitch 4, walk west about 25 feet over a small gap and 25 feet uphill to a small pillar on the right side of a larger pillar and climb the face of the small pillar to the right of the chimney between the pillars.]

Pitch 6: Koka 5.8. Descend via class 3 walkoff. [NOTE: From the top of pitch 5 this route is on the tall tower about 20' directly across the short gap to the north. Start at the dirty offwidth crack on the left side of the face.]

Pitch 7: Left Behind 5.7. Finish by climbing the upper blocks to the summit of the crag, then descend a trail down gullies to the east of most crags back to the base of The Far Side (you won't get lost!). [NOTE: From the top of pitch 6, look for a crack splitting a rock on a tall but fractured formation about 150' uphill to the northwest. Walk along the ridge 100' uphill to a gap, turn left and follow a trail downhill 75' to the base of the formation.]

Climb the left side of the face to a double bolt anchor.

This route is to the right of the popular Shute-Mills, which is the first face you encounter when you arrive at the Far Side. "Livin'on a Prayer" climbs the detached tower to the right of shute Mills, gains the ledge and continues up the pocketed face on excellent rock. You can stem and and lie-back up the lower pillar while pasting feet out left. This is an old top rope line that was recently bolted. The rock was slimy from winter storms during the February "first" ascent and the name came from a hit song on Bon Jovi's 1986 album Slippery When Wet that we could NOT get out of our heads. Go ahead, que the music and sing along as you send.

This is a face climb on the west end of the lower rock formation, just left of Something Good. It is rated 5.9 in Chris Summit's "Wine Country Rocks," but the best holds are tricky to find on your first attempt, so 5.10a may be more appropriate.

This short and easy climb extends Shute-Mills, New Tradition and other climbs that share the same anchors via a second pitch to the anchor above The Chief and War Party. Above the anchor atop Shute-Mills there are two vertical cracks. Climb the left crack about 20' (5.6) and finish on a 35' low-angle slab (class 4). Rappell from the anchor down the route or a free rappel down the back side into the notch (note: you can easily set up a top-rope for The Chief and War Party from the anchor).

Fun climb with plenty of opportunities to make it harder than it needs to be, primarily by going further right whenever you see fit.

Climb the squeeze chimney just right of Saviour Heart and left of New Tradition, and finish on the upper face of New Tradition. It's easier than it looks, with great holds and good gear placements for protection.

Climb the squeeze chimney just left of Shute-Mills and finish on the upper face of New Tradition.

A fun, pocketed route that starts slightly left of the fall line from the anchors and moves up towards a mangy flaring crack. The start exposes you to the potential of swinging; once you're through the area with the crack it's a quick jog to the top. See route #12 on page 23 in "Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area" (Tresa Black, 2002).

This short and easy climb extends Shute-Mills, New Tradition and other climbs that share the same anchors via a second pitch to the anchor above The Chief and War Party. Above the anchor atop Shute-Mills there are two vertical cracks. Climb the right crack about 15' (5.5) and finish on a 35' low-angle slab (class 4). Rappell from the anchor down the route or a free rappel down the back side into the notch (note: you can easily set up a top-rope for The Chief and War Party from the anchor).

The bolted route on the same rock as Shute-Mills, go around the pillar and you'll see it.  You'll also notice that there's more climbing right of the bolts route that is top-roped as a 5.10a.Saviour Heart is another strightforwar steep face where the numerous little pockets provide plenty of hands.  The crux is getting over the same bulge as on Shute-Mills, but well further to the left.

This is a face climb on the broad arete left of Step to the Left. The first point of protection, a fixed pin, is a bit off the deck but is easy to reach.

Just left of Shute-Mills there is a chimney separating a pillar from the main wall. Climb the blocky face of the pillar just left of the chimney (and right of New Tradition), then step right to the main wall and finish on New Tradition.

Climb the right side of the face to a double bolt anchor. The climb is steep and clean, but easier than it appears. A photographer can get a great photo from the ledge on the right.

Climb vertical small pockets and edges, following a seam, clipping two bolts. Go over a break and clip the old belay station, continuing up the slab to a newer anchor with rap rings (replaced w/ASCA hardware on 4/7/10).

An extremely easy face climb leads to a *slightly* overhanging crux.

Climb a steep wide crack via huge face holds over a slightly overhanging bulge (5.6) and continue up a widening chimney to a thin finger crack (5.7) on the right wall just below the bolted anchor of Saviour Heart, Far Side Chimney and New Tradition.

Although it shares a few holds with Saviour Heart, it is a separate line that predates all sport climbs at Mt. St. Helena. According to Jerry Dodrill, during the first ascent Forrest Shute "took a 50' fall and the rope caught as he hit the ground, landing on his feet. He went right back up and finished the route."

The first climb you see as you arrive at the Far Side, and a great warm-up.  Lots of good pockes on a vertical boulder reaching about 50' feet up. Getting over the bulge near the top is the crux.

Start as per Atlas, climbing to the roof, but step left, clip the first bolt and climb a steep pumpy face over bulge and continue up the arete to rap rings atop of the cliff. This is a long over-looked line that was originally TR'd by the FA'ists in the mid '90's. A #1 camalot with sling under the roof makes the start more secure.

From the base of Shute-Mills, continue down around the corner to the obvious arete with six bolts. This well protected climb is probably 5.7 if you happen to find the best holds at the crux, just after the first bolt (stay left), but be prepared for it to feel more like 5.8, which I think is a more accurate rating. Stepping off the pillar to clip the fifth bolt is a bit spooky; a fall would really hurt, but it's an easy move. The upper headwall has perfect cracks for gear, I'm not sure why two bolts were placed--must have been to guide sport climbers to the top.

A one move wonder.  Instead of going over the roof immediatly, follow beneath it on the overly facile climbing until you can clip the second bolt.  Clip it, then up and over the roof.  Fun move, boring climb.

This route is on the protruding arete in the gully between "Death to the Right" and "Feelin' Your Oats." 4th class up the initial short face to a big ledge. Climb blocks for a couple moves to the first bolt. Commit to the pocketed arete and take it to the top of the cliff (bottom edge of The Chief formation). Much of the route can be chimneyed to the right at an easier grade, ~5.9.

Climb the obvious crack just right of Something Good and just left of Step to the Left.

Steep pocketed bulge to arete just right of "Farther."

Climb the lower face to a roof, grab pockets and reach long for the high first bolt. A #1 camalot with sling under the roof makes the start more secure. Climb steep huecos and run it out on good but pumpy holds to the second bolt. Continue up slab, clipping one of the old anchor bolts en-route to a newer anchor atop the cliff. Excellent rock, bold lead.

An interesting yet not sustained 5.10a to the left of the odvious chimney left of Saviour Heart.  Lots of lateral movement makes this climb through provoking and exciting on lead.

The climbing begins near the arete on the second spire after you reach the Far Side.  There's an overhung section about 12 feet of the ground that has 1 bolt before you pull the overhang.  The blocky rock below the bolt can be loose in places.

After the first overhang, solo up and left on 5.5 to another overhung section.  This one has a bolt for the lower part of the section, and another before the route's crux.  After pulling the crux, another 15' of runout moderate climbing leads to the anchors.

The crux boulder problem is fun, but the climb is not spectacular by any means.

Two closely spaced bolts protect a short face, followed by easy although a bit dirty and runout climbing to the chains or more challenging but runout (unless cams are used) face climbing to the right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shute-Mills Area