Start in the center of the cave.  Right hand on a large pinch and left hand undercling feet on the block right of the crack.  The crux is pulling out of the overhang.  Good holds, burly moves. 

  This area has a lot of spiders.  Knocking out the webs with a stick is worth 2 minutes of your time. 

  If anybody knows the name, grade, first ascenionist, let me know and I'll add them.

Unknown

The Exorcist

Foops Simulator

That Roof Crack

The Exorcist is THE classic boulder problem at Chickies. Actually, it's the only decent boulder problem at Chickies. It climbs a 60 degree roof on textured, high quality pinches and crimps. Drop off at the high jug.

Sit start.  Long steep boulder problem.  Mostly larger, smooth holds so you won't have to worry about tweeking fingers or running out of skin.  The crux for me came after the sit start getting to the long up and left traverse.  The second crux is moving past the finishing jug of the exorcist.  Once the second crux is done, you can climb higher and to the left as shown in the picture and walk off, down climb or jump down.   

  If anyone knows who the FA was, the grade, or if this is the correct name, let me know.  Thanks!

P1: Climb the obvious roof crack that traverses the wall just to the right of the cave.  Climb to the end of the roof and pull over the roof following the crack straight up to a small tree below a ledge, belay from the ledge. 60ft. 

  P2: Climb up and angle left across the grassy gully.  Past the gully reach an arete and follow that up right towards the large pine tree.  Cross under the left side of the pine tree and up another face to the summit, belay from the a rock pinnacle at the summit.  150ft.

This is the area back in the trees, closer to the North Buttress than the Main Wall. The Cave is a highly visible feature once you are near it. The best bouldering in the area is in and around the cave, and one to two pitch trad climbs tackle its roof (5.0 to 5.10+).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Cave