P1 is phenomenal. The climbing here is of the highest quality. Both of the cruxes are short and well-protected (as long as you don't run out of #6s). Do this pitch! A three bolt anchor makes it easy to set this up as a toprope.

If you choose to sally onward, P2 follows an aid seam up a thin dihedral to the base of the roof. Bring small stoppers and tiny cams for the crux. A two bolt anchor lies below the roof. C1+

P3 traverses under the roof on a sandy crack with mega exposure! Although the rock quality deteriorates slightly, the roof is easily aided at C1. Do not turn the corner after the roof as there is a death block above. Instead, keep following the horizontal crack as it widens to 5.10 hands and ends at a stance where a gear anchor can be erected. It is conceivable that a stronger fellow than I could free this entire pitch at 5.11 or 5.12.

P4 is a scramble to the summit.

To descend, make a short rap off a slung tree to another, larger ledge. On the South side of this ledge you can find the anchors and rappel line for Dairygold.

Lithium (Evan's Offwidth)

Coyote Ugly, et al.

Angel of Harlem

Untitled

This Ain't Living

Major Tom Milne

Unknown 7

Dairygold

Roof Crack

Stepping Stone

Me and My Monkey

The Green Party

Quarter of a Century

My Pet Goat

This is a great route on solid rock with an excellent roof!

This is a striking splitter that starts off wide hands and goes to fists through a small roof. Keep plugging to the anchors.

This goes up a short, steep section of funky climbing in a right-facing corner/flake to a long, left-leaning flake system. The gear is a bit funky as much of it is flaring and hollow sounding. It is pretty messy with loose rock and lichen.

The crux is in the thin seem about halfway up the rock. Make some 5.8 moves to the crux and finish with more 5.8 moves to the anchors.  It is a really, really fun climb.

This is a great climb! Climb fingers to a good rest, then splitter hands that widen as you go until the anchors. It has fun moves the whole way through.  This is #21 in the guidebook.

Start in a left-facing corner that changes to a right-facing corner, and go through the sizes from fingers to some cupped hands!

This is number 17 in the book. It is a fun and clean handcrack in a right-facing corner that goes from wide hands to thin hands as you climb. This is surprisingly steep through the first 20 feet.

Dairygold is excellent in general with a fantastic 3rd pitch. It is mostly hand-size crack climbing with a little groveling here and there.

P1. Begin on a shelf at the base of the obvious dihedral. Climb fingers/hands/fist/OW through mediocre rock to a 2 bolt anchor on the left. When we first climbed this, we found a large hex fixed about 2/3 of the way up the pitch; however, there were no anchors at the obvious finish. I'd love to credit whoever first climbed the initial 50 feet of the route - if anyone has info, please let me know. The first pitch is worthwhile if just cragging, 75 feet, 5.10.

P2. Traverse left and up across the slab to a sloping ledge. This requires about 35 feet of easy but unprotected climbing. From the sloping ledge, climb a loose offwidth/chimney 20 feet to a 2 bolt anchor on a nice pedestal, 60 feet, 5.8.

P3. Climb 10 feet up the finger crack in the dihedral, then work left into the splitter hand crack on the face. Continue up 80 feet of heavenly crack climbing. At the top of the pitch, work right to find 3 bolts in good rock at a large ledge, 90 feet, 5.10.

P4 (optional). Climb 5.5 to the next ledge, then scramble to a massive block on the rim - there are amazing views from the top. There's a sling on a tree to help with the descent.

The best way to descend is to make a single rope rappel from the top of P3 to the top of P2, then do a double rope rappel to the ground.

This is route #18 in the book. It is an obvious, vertical, wide crack on low angle rock. There is a bit of lichen and some OW sections.

Great route with an awesome move through the roof. Changing corners into a dark, looming, offwidth roof into a fist crack. We thought the crux was after the roof climbing and laybacking through #3.5 to #4 size.

This is a great climb on some good rock with a little bit of lichen. There is a little bit of everything, the crux being the #0.75 section.

Per

Paul Byrne

: This is number 8 in the guidebook. It is a lichen covered, right-facing corner. There are lots of good jams and pods. It is a good warmup.

Climb up the THIN finger crack in a left-facing flare. A few blocks are stacked at the bottom of this one so shorter folk can reach the first lock. Use stem tech wizardry to make it through this one!

Start up laybacking up with face holds on both sides of the corner until it pinches shut and a long reach gets you to the anchors.

Per

Paul Byrne

: This is a short, fun, finger crack in a right-facing corner. It has great finger locks and face footholds for liebacking. This is easier than it looks, and the gear placements are as straightforward as it gets.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sewemup Mesa