A runout bolted face climb on quality stone to the right of At Your Pleasure (5.8). Most of the hardest moves on the route are decently protected, but falling from anywhere except right at a bolt could be disastrous, especially considering the long hike out. 30' + groundfall potential getting to the second bolt. A fun line though, and easy enough to TR if you're not feeling up to the lead. The crux may be a height-dependent/reachy move past the third bolt.

Where Were You?

Crack Queen

At Your Pleasure

1995 Budget Closure

Upper Mojave

White Rain

Mojave Queen

Drag Queen

Route Beer

This route starts up hill and left of white rain, a hand crack goes out the left side of a huge chimney with chockstones. Follow this straight up through a nice jamming section to a slot with a nolina. Continue past the bush to the top.

This is the obvious crack just right of Drag Queen. Powerful moves off the deck in a steep fingers / hand crack gain a pod. Awkward moves out of the pod lead to some nice fist jams to the top. Some loose rock but overall an excellent climb.

1995 Budget Closure follows a left-slanting dike with good protection. The route starts with a jump/mantle onto a large chickenhead knob. Take care pulling the crux after the 2nd? bolt - the crucial crimp hold is cracked all the way through and may not last forever.

Clip a bolt and then launch into excellent 5.10 crack climbing that is right slanting offering up challenging locks and thin face for your feet.  The crux is definitely the face climbing after the crack, but is well protected.

White Rain is a fantastic mixed pro climb; one of the few to get 5 stars in Randy's guide book.

The route begins on a large boulder uphill from

Mojave Queen

(5.11a). It is prudent to stick clip the first bolt before stepping onto the steep face. Sustained face climbing past six bolts on fine patina brings the climber to cruxy moves that gain the short finger/hand crack. A few challenging moves in the crack lead to the top.

This premier Walt's Rock classic begins left of

White Rain

(5.11a) at the base of the formation. Begin in a low-angle chimney and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right (bolt protected) to gain a nice hand crack (5.10). Follow the hand crack to its end where spectacular steep face climbing (crux) is protected by three bolts. The movement and position are exceptional on this route!

This stunning climb begins left of Crack Queen on the Upper Walt's formation (it is mistakenly labeled as #2383 in Randy's guide). The crux moves, on slightly overhanging rock, occur between the first and second bolt. After the crux, beautiful 5.10 face climbing (natural pro and 2 bolts) on dark reddish brown patina exists to the top.

This route begins off of a large boulder on the northwest face of Upper Walt's Rock. Difficult moves (crux) past two bolts (stick clip first bolt or small TCU) through discontinuous seams gain a thin crack that veers left. Continue up the crack (easier climbing) to the top. A worthwhile climb -  2.5 out of 5 stars.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Walt's Rocks