This was the first route I did in CT and I returned to it several times.  The dihedral is steep and pumpy and the pro is decent but strenuous to place.  Stout for its grade.  Stem and jam up the steep dihedral which gets easier above as the angle eases.

White Fandango

Acid Reign

Saturday Night Special

Catapult

Imperial Wizard

Elegant Monkey

Jaguar

Claw Marks

Pegasus

Chimney-Top Corner

Realm of the Senses

Arrowhead

Feline

Triple Direct

Phantasmagoria

Fool's Mate

Cat-o-Nine-Tails

Danzig

Call it "41a"

Mind Bender Direct

Unkown

Golden Book

Pink Elephants

Catatonia

Friday the Thirteenth

Satanic Verses

Block of Ages

Millions of Dead Dogs

Sunny Side Up

hard start(crux) with solid cam to keep you off the ground. very pumpy start all the way to the ledge 25' up. second crux is up high, a little hard to protect especially if under 6'tall. good warmup for White Fandango.

A fun TR route of moderate difficulty.  Start in the crack directly below the arete. Climb onto the boulder then step left onto the arete (crux 1).  Follow the arete up and finish on face on the left side (crux 2). 

  You can also start on the face left of the arete which is a bit harder.

Good warm-up for neighboring Dead Dogs. Crux is 1/2 way up moving through a slight bulge using finger locks and sparse feet. Rabbely crack that is usally a bit dirty- some loose blocks here and there. Belay spot very comfy!

On the face to the right of the tall, freestanding flake.  Climb the thin face to a one foot wide overlap.  Pull over, move left, and follow the left-facing corner and crack above.

One of the best face climbs around, sustained powerfull climb with not so great rests. Crux is getting to the overlap and pulling through. Great movement, figuring out the sequence is the fun of it all.

Follow the obvious open-book corner and crack.  Make sure to get a bomber piece in before the first ledge.  The crux is at the top.  Place pro thoughtfully to avoid dislodging potentially loose rocks in a fall.  There are usually a lot of loose stones right on the edge as you top out.

Jaguar climbs the face and arete just left of the Pegasus dihedral.  The crux is the last few delicate moves on the arete and establishing yourself on the face above the small roof. Straight up the arete here is slightly harder than using the holds on the face.  Harder variations can be done further left on the face.  Certainly the best route at Cathole and one of the best in CT.

Pegasus is the obvious dihedral in the face of the crag.  A roof caps the dihedral near the summit.

Good beginer climb, little to no exposure, short easy and fun!

Good face climbing past the two short overhangs.

Jam up the crack,  past a shallow roof and out through the arrowhead. Follow the crack up to a ledge, and face climb the rest of the way.

A little-known gem. Great moves on good rock with decent protection. Scramble up on the right of a large tree then climb the center of the narrow, right-facing wall following the small crack that runs up the middle.

Climb the face through three overlaps between Friday the 13th and Fool's Mate.

Negotiate the large, nasty looking overhang via a crack and climb to the top... Not a destination climb, for sure.

An intimidating, old-school 5.9 that deserves more traffic.  The moves are interesting and varied.  Excellent rock quality (for Cathole). 

  Climb up to the overhang and try to figure out the crux (next to the first overlap) before you pump out.  Catch your breath and follow the crack past the other two overlaps, then step left and continue straight up the finger crack and varnish to the top.

Climb the face and outside corner right of Pegasus.  Stay right of Pegasus, on the face all the way to the top. 

Danzing follows the face almost straight up through the arking crack (seen with ice in it). Sustained climb with little to no rests, work up to the overlap and small roof, same finish as Imperial Wizard.

Between Saturday Night Special (climb # 41 in Blue Book) and Catnip (climb # 42)  

  Start on the block 20ft right of SNS. Climb up on good holds, then left of flake (5.7) or on flake (5.6) to the top  5.6-5.7  R/X or TR

Climb the slab to a right facing corner, over steep blocks to the large block about 3/4 up. Work your way through the block to the roof, reach up and over and claw your way up for an exciting finish.

Climb the arete that is facing the road. Start on slopey right hand and a jug for the left hand. Keep bumping your right hand up the arete while finding the best holds you can for your left hand. Feet get smaller as you reach the top. This problem is a little tall (making it heady for a V0) and has an awkward/sketchy down climb on the other side of the boulder where you cannot see your feet.

The big corner around the corner to the right from Pegasus - just after you duck under a block leaning against the face. 

  Can easily be led.

Climb the right facing corner just to the left of Claw Marks. 5.7- Nice route with interesting moves. There is some loose stuff at the top. PG.

Start just left of the three overlaps of Triple Direct, directly beneath a rectangular notch in the lower corner of the big roof.  Pull the roof at the notch and move left across the face to a crack for 8 feet.  Then diagonal right to a stance below the arête formed by the Phantasmagoria corner.  Finish up the right side of the arête.

Start on Block Of Ages to get past the overhang, then step sideways and climb the face between them to the top of the pillar.Described as "Satanic Verses" in the old Nichols guidebooks and "Satanic Versus" in the Fasulo guidebook.

OK route, didnt take too much gear but easy except for one spot.

Hard to ID the crux, the line doesn't flow real well, but worth a go.

Golden Book runs up the crack and to its left. Sunny Side Up is the right hand wall. The start is just before you go under the tunnel formed by the wall and the boulder. Using both small holds on the face and the boulder on your right ascend the steep, almost vertical wall off the desk. After the balancy opening moves, you will clear the boulder and have two options. If you ascend climber's right, the route moves from a 5.7 to a fun 5.5 stretch of climbing thanks to large rectangular blocks of rock. For more of a challenge (5.9 - 5.10) stay to the left and ascend the face to the wall.  

The Main Walls offer routes at all levels of difficulty. While there are some excellent leads, most routes are top roped.  There is no fixed hardware so bring a long dynamic rope/webbing to reach trees that are well back from the cliff edge.  Watch for sharp edges.  Cathole is notorious for loose rock so wear a helmet at all times.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Walls