This fun climb was once a gimme for the grade, now that a large jug at the lip has broken off it may feel difficult for V5. 

  Start in the same pockets as "Moonshine Roof" climb out to the surfboard and continue straight.  Make a tricky move to get into the undercling and bump out to the lip.  Figure out how to keep the feet on to match the lip, and pull the tricky rock over onto the face.

Moonshine Right

Moonshine Roof (center)

Power of Landjager

Moonshine Left

Mooned

Sound of Power

Starting pockets rumored to have been chipped out, there is an alternate start that is no harder that does a couple of moves straight in line with the diving board if you need to have an unaltered ascent. 

  Start on a sloping boulder with hands in the two pockets, pull on and make a big move out the roof to a jug, make sure to keep the landing gear up or you will surely be dragging body parts across the boulder that you started on. Mount the diving board and work out left on the dual rails. At the end of the rails make big crux moves on slopers with heal and toe hooks on the diving board up into a higher section of roof. Eventually gain a jug under the lip, facing right reach over the lip to a hold and work up on holds that could be better.

Start low in the dihedral. Move out on jugs to a left hand crimp. Heel hook or dyno to the sloping jug and start hold of Sound of Power. Finish on that climb.

This less popular Moonshine route is just as classic as the others imo.  Be prepared for a stout grade and quite a pump for a boulder problem.  Start in the shared pockets with the V4 "Moonshine Roof", and climb onto the diving board.  Where "Moonshine Roof" breaks right continue straight and around the corner thru challenging beta intensive moves.  Get established under the final roof with a good left hand and enter the crux pulling over the final lip to good holds above.  Some toe hook trickey can help to get matched on the final holds before the move to the jugs leading to the topout.

Start with a right hand side pull and either compress with the left on the arete or rodeo start up with the left to a good hold. Once the good hold is reached you have 2 choices, both are about the same grade. One option is to move to the left onto the slab and once up on it move back right around the arete to top out. Otherwise pull straight up the arete and finish slightly right.

The standing / jump start to the classic "Power of Landjager".  Start standing on a boulder and reach across to the flake jug halfway to the top.  Alternatively if you aren't super tall stack pads might take a few to get to the starting holds.  Once on make a big reach to a good hold, match and make another big reach to the top.  The holds at the top are good, but there isn't much to pull over on, and you are plenty high at this point.

Juggy horizontal roof climbing is the center piece of the area, though there are several other walls and boulders in the immediate area. Problems vary in difficulty from easy to V11. The classics are Moonshine Roof (center) V4 and Power of Landjager V11. There are some good warm ups around as well. Just playing on all three versions of Moonshine is fun. Guided tour access only so crowds are limited, this area is pretty easy to disperse in on a tour.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Moonshine Roof