A surprisingly challenging start leads to rampy climbing and a thin crux in a shallow, right-facing dihedral. You can skip the first bolt if you wish, but you might regret it.

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Splitsville

Rockin' Science (submitted as Un-named)

The Chockstone Arete

Why Ask Y

Fragile Balance

Equilibrium

Blocky holds and a monster serrated flake define this climb. There are many ways to climb it, and no matter what you choose, the gear is excellent.

A #4 was nice to have, and you could easily use a #5 if you're feeling frisky.

There are NO ANCHORS: Top out, and build a belay on a nice ledge off a good pine.

The crux of this route is between the second and third bolt.

Per

Rick Karden

: the climbing is sustained.

A fall here could be painful due to a the jagged rock right behind the climber. It might make for a better toprope. This becomes a harder climb without stemming in the chimney.

To the right of the

Chockstone Arete

is a line that takes off in chocolate colored stone with a tricky sequence leaning out to the left. The good holds are largely hidden from view, so it is best to keep moving until a good hold comes up - which it usually does. Cut back right above the chocolate stone to a V-trough and a committing sequence that is probably the technical crux. The pump factor ratchets up as you near the anchor, and the climbing feels a bit more committing. The cold shut anchors are several feet right of the top of the arete at a good stance that is not visible from below.

This has interesting climbing throughout on excellent stone.

The right side of The Alpenglow Wall is composed of a narrowing slot with several routes taking off from it. The left of these lines chases an interesting arete that climbs with more finess than power. Begin with a fingery traverse to the left, the crux, that gains hidden jugs after one commits to the move. Interesting and thoughtful climbing utilizes a hand on the arete with the feet continuously to the right. A nice series of turns near the end of the route will toss you into the slightly spooky finish that ends left of the arete proper.

Possibly the most interesting climbing on this wall, The Chockstone Arete delivers good stone, interesting climbing with several committing moves, and excellent continuity. I never skip it.

This nice 5.11 sits left of the gully, left of the

Chockstone Arete

and ascends to cold shut anchors. Edgy off the deck, this interesting line relents after 30 feet, turning into a lower angle ramp for 20 feet. Like the 5.9 on the left, it picks up an interesting finishing sequence on thin edges.

We added a bolt to the mid-section in 1995 to eliminate the groundfall potential. This is an interesting face climb and worth a burn. A top rope can be set up by swinging over from the anchor on the 5.9, but use your own gear as the cold shuts are getting old. Popular.

About 30 feet left of

The Chockstone Arete

are a pair of lines that run up a clean wall to cold shut anchors. The left of these ticks in at 5.9+ and entails some interesting moves through largely very blocky terrain. The final headwall hides some good, crisp edges. It is worth a burn and is readily top-roped.

Per

Mike Bannister

this is very powerful right off the deck with a somewhat high first clip. People have decked here. Then it has more moderate climbing in the middle. A move to the left at the very top keeps the grade under 5.10 though straight up also goes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Alpenglow Wall