A candidate for the best route on the Mustache. Three pitches of quality climbing.

P1: Start on Double Dog Dare.  At the 11th bolt continue straight up instead of moving left. Good climbing in the seams with a reachy crux near the top. High quality pitch.  12a, 18 bolts.

P2: An immediate crux leads to an excellent pitch of grooves and patina. Again, good rock and good climbing.  11c, 13 bolts.

P3: More cracks/grooves but with a little less patina.  A crux sequence from the hole at the end of the pitch takes one to a great belay station/ledge.  11c, 13 bolts.

Descent:

a) 3 rapps down the route.

or

b) With an 80m, go to the top of Supergrinder.  There is only a few feet of rope left, knots advisable.  The second rapp does not quite make the ground but deposits one on easily downclimbed terrain at the start of Supergrinder.

The Toiler

The Remington Electric

Double Dog Dare

Mustache Ride

Don't Call Me Fred(and remember to tie a knot in the end of your rope)

[Redacted]

Psycho Sexy

Stone Cold Fusion

Boldly Departed

Shattered Glass

Tiddlywinks

Close Shave

It's Not The Wheat

Flame Thrower

Flamed Variation

Blast Furnace

Secret Stash left

Secret Stash right

Sidecar

Fu Manchu

Fire Bomb

Gala Tumble

B-Gizzle

Megaton

High n Dry

Becky Route

Slippery Slope

Aromatic

Cuss Terr's Last Stand

Supergrinder

Phenomena

Three Amigos

Dakota Street Bypass

Gizzle Bomb

Window Shopper

Power Of Union

Air Toil

The Megaplex

Notorious B.E.G., The

Caught Stealing

Crazy Course

Coven (Seriously Though)

Grindulator

Double D ConFusion

Four steps ahead

Mr. Ridiculous

Supermega

Climb the right leaning flare using great sloper holds and stems to a cruxy section 2/3 of the way up the route. Afterwards, step left and climb the nice face with great patina to a two bolt anchor. Double Dog Dare is pretty sustained, but not at the 11+ level. Expect great 5.10 to easy 5.11 climbing most of the way. Very enjoyable.

This climb is rich with variety. The first 4 bolts climb up and left thru a beautiful black patina on crisp edges. From here cross a wide crack and head straight up on large holds thru a ramp system to a thin face crux under an overhang. Above the overhang easy but run-out climbing leads up and right to a bolt on the right edge of the large alcove.  From here climb up and slightly left past 2 more bolts to the anchor.

Climb up and then diagonal left until under a vertical crack weakness. Straight up weakness to a bulge. Surmount tricky bulge and then traverse up and left (crux) past three bolts to an anchor located above the Phenomena anchor.

Clip the bolt above the Becky anchor and make a move up and left(be cautious of some fragile rock in this section. Step back right to the second bolt and keep an eye out for a foothold out right. Continue up on positive holds for a couple of more bolts. Thoughtful side pull  moves lead a bit left and up(stay with the bolt line and out of the possible looseness to the far left). A delicate layback move off a small flake gains a good hand jamb. Above clip another bolt and finish right to the anchor.

We did this to add another warm-up to the Mustache Wall.  Follow the bolt line approx 15 feet left of B-Gizzle.  Stem up and jam your way up until bolts lead left. ( It's also possible to head right instead, gear recommended.  From there, find a bolt and anchor.  Second pitch gear routes start both left and right from that anchor.)

There are two roofs and a steep ending on this beast. Get to the first roof without falling on the tricky opening and crank your way through jugs to a huge broken sloper move. Pull over onto the face and face the music. Make an 'in your face' clip and recover, you have a long way to go.  Ditch one crack after another until you reach the second roof. This section is unreal fun. Get jiggy with the crack and make a blind move to another juggy sloper. Flag your way around "the point" and onto the amazingly exposed face. Classic edgy face climbing leads you to a tricky crack swapping section.  When things blank out near the top, get ready for the finale.  Perfect little edges through a gently overhanging face amazes you as you float over the last steep section and into one last surprise. Dont fall at the top!  One of the best on the wall.

A crux down low leads to fun face and seam climbing, switching cracks as you ascend.

This route S-curves up the wall passing thru three separate overhangs to a bold and committing move onto an exposed arete. Delicate climbing on the arete leads to larger holds and the anchor above.

The name is an homage to legendary cliimber John Bachar. On the same day this route was established, Bachar perished practicing his art just outside of the nearby town of Mammoth Lakes.

This is an added value link up of Window Shopper with the second pitch of Supergrinder.  Do Window Shopper.  At the anchor make a couple of moves (crux) to gain the patina up and right.  Climb past 3 bolts to join the second pitch of Supergrinder at it's second bolt.

With an 80m rope it is possible to lower to the Shopper anchor.  Not sure about a 70m.  A 70m works getting back to the Grinder anchor.  Or two rapps, or two ropes.  An 80m will also reach to within a few feet of the ground (easy downclimb) as a straight shot rapp.   Endless options for getting off.

Begin by stepping left onto a featured face that leads up and right to a blunt arete. Continue up steep 5.5 climbing on large, positive holds to a stepped ledge section. More steep climbing above this ledge, on sometimes slopey holds and perhaps the crux, leads to a crab crawl right to reach a bucket that will take you back left to the anchor.

Pass three bolts on nice black patina climbing (first crux).  Continue up past a few more bolts while angling slightly up and right, aiming for the obvious black patina that is just above a small overlap.  A delicate standup obtains the overlap (second crux).  Pass a few more bolts while moving up left to the final finishing moves into the slick scoop.

Good previously overlooked route.  Even though it's short it's almost all good climbing with engaging moves.

One of the best routes on the wall in terms of richness of movement. There is almost no patina on this side of the wall and the climbing is on flakes and in between cracks and seams on grey rock. Except for a short section in the middle the route is very sustained and reports indicate a definite crux in the vicinity of the 10th bolt. The bolts are all very close together, so it's very well protected.

Climb a technical and interesting slab up to the base of the large roof. Sack up, pull the roof, and keep it together going to the anchors.

An awesome pitch!

This route is basically just the first two thirds or so of "Flamethrower".  Follow the first eight bolts of Flamethrower to it's sub-anchor.  Fun, techy, balancy climbing throughout.

Nice warm up. 8 bolts. Shares start with Flame Thrower then follows obvious weakness to the right.

P1: Climb the initial bolts of "Gimpenator" until about even with the anchors of B-Gizzle.  Traverse right (gear) and then up corner to a bolted anchor. Secret Stash starts from this bolted anchor.

P2: Up and left through lay back and stemming moves. Clip a bolt and continue up right facing lay back corner to anchor.

P1:  Climb the initial bolts of "Gimpenator" until about even with the anchors of B-Gizzle.  Traverse right (gear) and then up corner to a bolted anchor. Secret Stash starts from this bolted anchor.

P2: From anchor head up and right to thin crack with a bush growing from it. Continue up crack to anchor.

Climb the first pitch of 'Supergrinder' and belay at the bolts (or link into Sidecar).

From the anchor bolts climb straight up into a slightly flared offset/dihedral tight finger crack.  Just a little bit tricky/insecure for a moment.  Continue upwards as the crack gets a little bit wider (bigger fingers with a few tight hands), with a deeper flare. This is more straight forward, but maybe a little more blue collar.  Bolted anchor at the top.

The bishop guidebook gives this 10c, but we thought it was closer to 10a.  Well protected and fine position up on the wall.  Very worth doing!

This route has good variety and is reasonably continuous. It starts with small holds face, has some seam climbing through the middle, and ends with steeper good sized holds.

Start by climbing the green face left of Notorious B.E.G. past 4 bolts on technical small holds crimping - the crux is probably in the vicinity of the second bolt. Move left at the 5th bolt, then up before going back right into the leaning seams, passing 3 more bolts. Above, climb the steeper face just right of the arête past the remaining 5 bolts, going through the initial bulge and then over two more small roofs.

This pitch is 35 meters long - be careful when lowering off.

Start immediately right of B-Gizzle on some face holds. Clip 2 bolts on the start of the face. Move into a steep layback crack and clip the 3rd bolt. Game-on from here. Move into the crack as it transitions back to the right. Go for it doing a sporty move to clip the 4th bolt or optionally place finger size gear to protect the move. Clip 4th bolt and stay focused for a burly awkward layback crack move that requires footwork and balance. Stand up and place a blue TCU/green alien and do a final easy move to gain the ledge and anchor of B-Gizzle. clip a bolt and long sling on anchor of B-Gizzle.

Move above B-Gizzle anchor and clip a high bolt. move into a steep layback crack crux and clip another bolt (7th and last bolt). Gain a stance and place a piece of gear. Continue placing gear (up to 2") up a steep 10+ crack finish just left of "Flame Thrower". Lower off.

This is one of the first routes you'll encounter as you walk into the gully. It's the obvious left facing corner with a thin crack. It's a bit on the short side compared to most of the other routes on Mustache Wall, but the moves are fun and it's worth doing. The crux is the first few feet of the lieback. The fingers are pretty good but there's no footholds to speak of.

Techy face climbing (11a-ish) gets you to a rest near the intermediate anchors on Flame Thrower.  From here the business starts with a smeary, reachy move.  The route then steepens and pulls the bulging roof above.  We are still looking for consensus on the grade, so please weigh in.  (The route name is in honor of Mega Marty Lewis, a key player in developing this part of Pine Creek Canyon)

Here is a fun one for those who like longer pitches or just want something new (mostly) on the awesome Mustache Wall. Also, a great one for those lugging around that 80m or longer rope. With rope stretch it works out perfectly with an 80m  if you unclip from the draws on the way down, then swing right to higher ground. Of course, you want to tie a nice fat knot in the end of the rope but you all do this anyway right? For shorter ropes, you can lower to your choice of lower anchors.

While technically (for me) the hardest move on the route is down lower, getting to the 4th bolt on Remington, many will find the moves getting to the last bolt a challenge. A wise climber will pay close attention to rope drag throughout the pitch. A few shoulder length runners and back-cleaning here and there can make the difference on that final clip.

Stay Dry!

Becky, not Beckey. This is a good warm-up for some of the harder routes in the area.

This route has crimpy, somewhat technical moves for it's first half, followed by patina/knob climbing on the second half. From below the first half appears to be littered with potential holds but a good share of them end up being unusable, making for interesting sequence reads.

The rock on the bottom half is high quality with the top half being similar to the patina climbing at the top of Gala Tumble.

Climb past five bolts to gain the break at the small bush. From the break climb the patina covered face past 4 more bolts to the anchor up and right of the Gala Tumble anchor.

Well, somebody needs to break down and enter this line as it's a glaring omission of a classic from the Mustache routes.

As noted in the Lewis/Croft guide this is a visionary route, the first sport climb on the wall.  Interesting that one of the hardest lines was also the first.

A little off vertical, techy, and somewhat sharp hold face climbing.

Follow the black patina up and a little left past four bolts.  A couple more bolts connect with the next set of black patina flakes.  Up and right a little as the patina disappears, then up to the anchor with a final sequence at the last bolt.

The first bolt is kind of high and a little difficult to clip.  It is nice having it high once clipped.

Plenty of thin, technical climbing on this one, with an exciting yet well protected mantle at the anchor.

P1: Start up a gully, pulling over a few bulges before reaching a 2 bolt anchor near a bush and dihedral. 8 bolts

P2: Instead of continuing up the crack/dihedral, clip a bolt, step down, and then traverse left on some inobvious crimps. A few more powerful moves past the next bolt lead to an awesome finish where incut edges abound. 7 bolts

You can link these pitches together with twin ropes or if you extend most of the bolts.

Rap with one rope in two rappels using the anchors on Window Shopper.

This is a fun route that will test your route finding skills as much as your crimp strength. Start up the hill a hundred feet or so from Flamethrower. Follow the bolts left on sustained and technical face climbing. Look for the path of least resistance which sometimes requires you to downclimb a couple feet from the bolt before traversing over.

Eventually you'll reach a big jug on steep terrain. Make some cruxy moves to get up onto a thin slab. Move left on the slab and finish on the arete.

From the anchors you can also toprope the burly Dakota Street Bypass (5.12a) which begins directly below and climbs out some steep roofs.

Two pitches of climbing off the Supergrinder ledge.  Do Supergrinder/Sidecar to approach.

P1: Climb the right leaning chimney for 2 bolts before moving left into a crack, from the top of the crack patina climbing leads to a belay at a nice small ledge.  11-, 9 bolts. (Ending here makes for a pleasant 3 pitch 11- route.)

P2: A couple of bolts lead to a crux section.  Do a surprising weird move to obtain the slightly right leaning flare.  Follow this until it thins down to some finger locks and face.  Move left at the last bolt, then easy to the mussy anchor.  12-, 12 bolts.

Can be done, just, on a single 70m.  80m is nicer...

Descent: 4 35m rapps. If using an 80m it's possible (with a few feet of easy downclimbing) to make it to the ground in one rapp from the Supergrinder ledge.

Bolted line that starts left and downhill of Phenomenon and pulls a roof down low. Finish on Phenomena.

Start on the classic B-Gizzle 10d and climb into Firebomb 12a except you skip the beginning crux of Firebomb and do the 11b bolted crux just above the B-Gizzle Anchor. Continue into the top half of Firebomb making it only 11b.

This climb wanders back and forth a bit and involves some crimping, delicate foot smears, and a couple balancy high steps. If you have good technique it'll feel a bit easy for the grade.

Diagonal up and left for four bolts to a bulge and then straight up for three more bolts to a stance in the wide, right slanting crack. Clip a bolt out left and do a powerful move left (crux) to unite the two faces. Another bolt leads to a chain draw under a roof. Pull the intimidating yet easy roof where 7 more bolts lead up and then slightly right to a two bolt lower off.

Link Aromatic and the upper half of the first pitch of The Toiler.  The quality Toiler climbing combined with the classic Aromatic yields an excellent pitch.

Start by doing Aromatic (12 bolts including anchor, 12d.)  Move a little left, then straight up The Toiler (7 bolts, 12a.)

Due to the jog left take care to avoid rope drag from the first bolt of the Toiler.

A single 70m will barely reach the ground. (rapp, don't lower if using a 70m)

Excellent three pitch sport route on the right side of the Mustache Wall.

P1- Follows the arete over a small roof up to a two bolt belay stance outside a flared slot. The crux(11c) is low on the pitch, below the roof.

P2-Continues up the crack then takes a wild traverse out left where you encounter a thin move(11c) before traversing back right to the second bolted anchor.

P3-Follow another wild traverse back left that ends with an under cling to a cruxy move up onto the arete. Continue up the arete then follow a series of thin moves back right(another cruxy section) to yet another cruxy move, big reach to a nice hold. From there continue up to a nice ledge with the last two bolt anchor on the left.

Rap the route

This fine route climbs great moderate terrain through several right leaning diagonal seams, progressively getting more difficult.  One of those jacked up 'stand up' moves that give me trouble is just the start of the business.  From this point the route is in your face until nearly the end, with tricky, technical, thin climbing that requires the climber to look around and think ahead.  A brilliant route that seemed significantly harder for the grade than many of the routes in the area.

A long link up pitch that combines most of the good climbing on Close Shave, Window Shopper, Shattered Glass, and Supergrinder. Long curving pitch, watch the rope run.

Do all but the last bolt of Close Shave, move to the cabled draw at the overlap on Window Shopper, do the remainder of WS into the crux of Shattered Glass, then finish on the patina of the second pitch of Supergrinder.

A single 80m will not get you down (barely makes it back to the cabled WS draw.)  However, there are several options available to descend on a single rope (even a 70m) from the Supergrinder P2 anchor.

Alternative finish: instead of moving into the patina at the height of the Supergrinder P2 crux, reverse that sequence by going right and then down climbing a few moves to the Supergrinder P1 anchor (the first bolt of Supergrinder P2 protects the follower nicely.)  This simplifies everything with a pitch that reaches the ground using a single rope.

This can be viewed as an extension, an added second pitch, or an overrun at Cuss Terr's Last Stand.  It more than doubles the length of Cuss Terr's. Doing the entire thing in a single pitch is outstanding.  It takes a nice line on the right edge of the upper face and seems to go on forever.  About the same technically as Cuss Terr's, with consistent and difficult enough climbing to hold attention - all the way to the end.  Like stacking two Cuss Terr's on each other with additional 11- thrown in.

Estimated 200' as Cuss Terr's is given 90'.  Somewhere in that range.

Another option: Start on Becky's, go to the obvious spot where one can move across onto the arete of the left wall of the chimney, finally joining at the bolt just above Cuss Terr's anchor.  A few less bolts this way as well as a couple of feet shorter.  Runners helpful.

A typical comment when watching someone high on the pitch: "Man, they are

way

up there."

A nice long pitch.

Sustained 5.10 face climbing leads to a crux undercling beneath a roof. The Notorious B.E.G. (5.11c) starts to the left on thin face and can be linked into the upper crux of this route for a very sustained pitch of 5.11.

Thin side pulls and crimps lead you up a blunt arete past a crux at the 2nd bolt and a bulge at the 3rd. The climb is fairly sustained, and many of the feet are pretty slabby, making it a fun and diverse climb.

The natural line/finish of Double Dog. Climb most of Double Dog Dare, then instead or going left, move right above the Aromatic anchor, clip the first bolt of the Toiler with a shoulder length sling, and continue up the crack to the Stone Cold anchor. Nice to have a few shoulder length slings to prevent drag.

Follow the double grooves until you're forced left into another crack. Bolt anchor

Climb up a ramp, cross a big right slanting crack, and face climb to a ledge in a flared corner. The crux is getting off this ledge but there are still more thin and balancy moves above. A step up in difficulty from Gala Tumble and Supergrinder.

One rope won't get you back to the start of the route, but with a 70 meter you can reach the ledge Gala Tumble starts off of.

Two pitches of climbing in a nice location above the Supergrinder ledge.  Do Supergrinder/Sidecar to approach.

P1: Start in the right leaning chimney and continue in the right fork to the obvious exit onto the patina face.  Trend up and right to a good small belay ledge.

11-, 10 bolts. (Ending here also makes for a pleasant 3 pitch 11- route.)

P2: Unique (for the Mustache) face climbing up a shallow runnel that slowly becomes more pronounced

.  The crux is early but there are other moves sprinkled throughout.  12-, 16 bolts, a couple of runners can be helpful at the top.

Same caveats as Three Amigos for rope length and descent.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mustache Wall