A route originally bolted by Paul Turecki. It climbs on really grippy rock with an assortment of feet for the crux between small interspersed hands to a long dead-point. The route starts in a black water streak and then moves up to the arete and upper slab, to the right of an arching roof. 

Crux Spoiler:

 The crux is a long deadpoint with multiple good feet from a small crimp and sidepull to a sloping left sidepull. Follow the arching line of bolts 1-3 through the crux staying away from the arete until the bolt line transitions to the arete. The crux starts at bolt one and is almost over after dead-pointing to where bolt two is, but ends when you gain the clipping stance for bolt three. The crux finishes as you set up and clip bolt three. From there follow the arete and face to the anchor. If you don't follow the arcing bolt line and head for the arete without doing the deadpoint, the route is much easier. 

  The crux is approximately V6 to V7-.    Rotate torso left and inward and latch the sidepull and lock down the thumb, lie back hard, adjust right foot and move to positive crimps and gain the arete. Good rest at the 4/5th and then .11 slab 2nd crux. 

  OR 

  Start the route and transition to the arete on more positive holds to the arete before the 2nd bolt and climb the arete the entire way for a decent 5.11 sport route.  

  Choose Life....Choose your own adventure.

Broken Head

Wishbone Right?

Unknown 5.10a

The Rain Game

Don't Throw Rocks

Unknown 5.12

Wishbone Left

Blades of Glory

Sacktapped by a Grigri

In Record Time

Stan Deazy

Start the same as Wishbone left on good chicken heads an fairly easy climbing to the crack. Fun layback climbing with a spicy crux in the middle and a well protected crux at the end.

This is a long route that features varied, steep climbing with generally good holds.  Exciting finish on the upper face where the features become much thinner and the climbing more technical.  Currently a great route that will become classic with more traffic and cleaning.

This route is newish, it starts between Stan Deazy and Wishbone left. The bottom is enjoyable, the + rating is for awkwardness higher on the route. Climb the arete and then meet up with stan deazy for the last bolt. 

It's a real shame that this route is so short. Really nice climbing, very similar climbing to Yellow Brick Road. Really nice rock on nice features 

Cryptic moves low on the route if you start direct, or start left on the arete and climb enjoyable moves but have a difficult first clip. The climbing eases up at the second bolt but keep your shite in order or risk cratering into the deck. Enjoyable as a top rope. 

Climb the left leaning corner feature that makes the left side of the "wishbone" the wall is named for. Climb unprotected face and chicken heads to flakes. Tiptoe over a hollow sounding one to thin gear in the corner. A single 1/4" stud protects the topout moves to the anchor. Fun and heady.

This route traverses up an awkward ramp to an awkward move to a chockstone rest (you stand on it) to some poorly spaced bolts on a blunt arete. If you're climbing this route a few of the following things might have happened: 1) you looked in the guide and saw it had 4 stars, 2) you don't have a guide 3) It looks dry and everything else looks wet, 4) You hate your life and like climbing dumb stuff. Some notes from the FA: From the belay anchor follow interesting and unique moves through a ramp that pulls out below a face. Traverse right to the edge and stand on the giant chockstone to head up the arete. Once at the anchor you can belay here and walkoff to the right or lower back down to the anchor for In Record Time. This is a great place to belay your follower and watch their responses at the strange movement. Here are a few important notes: 1. The guidebook lists this as 4 stars and that is not correct. Its fun if just for the strangeness of the moves, but not 4 stars. 2. Don't fall between the first and second bolt or beware the Blades of Glory.3. Important Follower Info!: Don't unclip the draw that protects the crux move exiting the ramp until you are standing on the ledge! The swing would be unpleasant. 4. You can rappel from the top of the pitch back to the ground with a 60m. Tie knots in the end. you may ask yourself what this route means, no one knows what it means. 

This enjoyable route climbs through thin cracks and a mini-roof  not a bad pitch, too bad it's so short.  

  Rated 5.10b in the guidebook.

This is an interesting little route, short but fun! Climb a corner system that has no gear, but nice stainless bolts. 

Fun crack climbing from the ground with biggish, physical moves but great stances between them for placing pro (that seemed pretty reliable).  Slabby face climbing for a couple bolts from the crack to anchor that is currently good and will get even better with more traffic and cleaning.

Nice sunny wall up the hill from the trail to Fairangel Gap. To the left of the Jungle gym and around the corner. Good mix of routes from 5.7 to .13-.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wishbone