Short, over hanging pillar. goes up center of face.  Put up as a solo.  Was supposed to have been bolted, don't know if it ever was. Open project if not.

Hanz Solo

REDACTED - formerly known as Hooter Turds

Binky's Tragedy

Goats, Horses, and Snakes

Eagle Nest Direct

Local Crow-Motion

No-Stick-Um

Slime Tube

Eagles Nest Dihederal

Locally Owned

Grip Master

Red Beard

Rolling Crow

Grave Consequences

Spudz

The Wall

Au-Natural

Binkys Revenge

Beholders Eye

Wild Women of the Planet Playtex

Baboon Safari

Start off on blocks and finsish up on crack to 4'th class top out.  Walk off south.

Slightly harder and steeper than Goats, Horses, and Snakes but definitely still a great beginner trad climb. Steep than a ramp then slightly steep before the top. Lots of stemming.

This is an alternate to Binky's Revenge. Follows up same beginning but then moves left out under roof and follows crack all the way up to similar finish as Binky's Revenge. Slightly more secure feeling with only a small amount of chossy face climbing at the very top. Okay if you've climbed most of the other stuff at the crag.

Really short, hard moves to super easy top section.  Crux is from the first to second bolt.

Steep but easy section followed by large ledge followed by longer steep section. You can choose to make this a crack climb or even climb the upper face without using the crack at all. Good beginner route.

Starts chunky but leads into fun, easy dihedral.

The crux is just before and after the first bolt.  After second bolt, climb on the right side of the arete.  If follow the bolt line on the left side, you will be climbing Locally Owned (11B). Rap Off

Climb right facing corner crack.  You will know this route when you see a big roof. On the right side of the roof is a bolted route.  This is the route on the left. Walk off top?

Ignore the pile of bones at the base of this. You're a better climber than they were. Also, you're bigger than an owl.Fun chimney crack thing that could use some cleaning up. Beware of loose rock, especially at the first big ledge. Go right at the top of the chimney to find another short chimney that takes you to the top. We did it in 2 pitches but it can be easily done in 1.

Continuous Climbing.  Directly under an old eagle nest, don't know if it's still there.  Start on a Left facing dihedrial an head up.  Come to left facing corner.  Finish on same anchors as Grip Master.

Shares the start with Local Crow Motion.  First crux at first bolt.  At second bolt, head on the overhangin left side of the arete.  11B after the third bolt.  Top out at same chains as Local Crow Motion.

To get to this excellent face climb consisting of small cracks and finger holds, you must climb either Wild Women of the Planet Playtex or Red Beard.  Look for the bolts on the right side of Red Beard's crack.  Start below the first bolt and end at the small ledge at the top of the face.  there are two 5.10b moves.  The first is just past the second bolt and the second is at the fourth bolt.  Use the two chains at the end to top rope or rap off.  You can also follow the 5.6 crack and blocks to the top.  Protecting there is sketchy, as you're at the top of the butte where the dirt meets the rock.

Follow the obvious crack up to the bulge.  The first part is the hardest.  Go around the bulge to the top.  The second half is 5.6.  Again, you can go to the right, just as you get into the small trough and do Grip Master.

Crux is from the second to third bult.  Runout to the chains, bring pro for the 5.8 bulge towards the top.  Shares two bolts for the anchor with NYX.

When boredom strikes, look to the less appealing areas of the crag. This turned out to be more fun than we thought, more easily protected, and less bird poo then we thought as well. Some fun stemming and chimney moves followed by some blocky face climbing that could use some cleaning. 

Heavily featured wall about 100' south of Hanz Solo.  Bad pro for first half.  Top out and walk off.

Climb a broken mixture of verticle and horizontal cracks to a blocky arete finish.  The anchors are two bolts with no chains.

5.9+.  Climb blocky steep face just to the right of the shallow corner.  At top, traverse to the left and clip the two bolt anchor of NYX/Rolling Crow.  Rap Off.

Start in big trough and do a buch of easy climbing for a while.  Come to block terrain and eventually hit steep face.  Belay second up to you and rap off the ancors for Grip Master.

A 5.9 face climb protected by four bolts for the first part.  The crux is the first part of the climb.  After the fourth bolt it gets easier.  Carry pro for the last part which is 5.7.  For a more interesting variation, go right after the fourth bolt and climb Grip Master.

Head up crack formed by wall and roof.  There is a crack that tops out and the crux is near the top.  Walk off.

Iron Butte is an interesting mix of climbs. One can find any thing from vertical and horizontal cracks to face climbing to walls made of blocks. The routes are all short, most can be done in one pitch. After finishing a climb, a top rope can be set up to protect more difficult climbs. There is good mixture of trad and sport routes, so bring your rack, as well as quick draws. On most climbs that reach the top, it is sometimes best to belay just below the top, as lack of protection can be problem at the top. Some of the climbs end at two-bolt anchors and in some cases you can rap off. Besides the named climbs at the butte, there are many short climbs ranging from very easy to extremely difficult, making Iron Butte a great place for beginners and experts alike.

 Spring and fall are great when it's cooler, however, it can get windy at the butte. Remember, this is Nevada and the weather can change dramatically in a short time.

 The rock quality ranges from poor to excellent. Expect the named climbs to be good to excellent quality.

 Supplies can should be purchased in either Carson City or Dayton. There is a new Smiths grocery in Dayton, about ten miles from Iron Butte. Bring plenty of water in the warmer months, as once you hike up to the butte, you won't want to hike back down till you're done.  If you are lucky you might spot a heard of Wild Horses. Rattle Snakes are very common here so be on the look out.

 Iron Butte breaks into two primary sections, Right and Left Side. The routes included on both sides break down as follows (The routes are listed in order from north to south):

 LEFT SIDE: Wild Women of Planet Playtex Grip-Master Red Beard Eagles Nest Dihedral Binkys Revenge No-Stick-Um Baboon Safari Local Crow-Motion Locally Owned

 RIGHT SIDE: The Wall NYX Rolling Crow Au-Natural Beholders Eye Hanz-Solo Spuds

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Iron Butte