Bandito is the leftmost bolted route at Mallette Park and is the easiest at 5.7.  It is not as clean or direct as Moonshine, but is still enjoyable and a good beginner sport lead route for the grade.  Scramble up the blocky start and continue up the indentation just left of the smooth face containing Bounty Hunter.  Good balance and body positioning help higher up, as the angle of the rock tends to force a slight swing towards the face.

Bandito

Bounty Hunter

Moonshine

Desperado

Prohibition Party (aka It’s Your Birthday)

This is the climb directly left of bandito. You climb the right side of the wide chimney and place gear on that side. Some chicken wings are at your disposal as well as an east mantle. Feet are everywhere and when you need a jug there it is. This shares the anchor with bandito, the bolts are off.

Bounty Hunter is an excellent thin face sport climb up a clean slab.  The intimidating undercut start is fairly easy if you start from the right.  Quality thin face climbing until a distinct crux at a small roof at the 2nd to last bolt.  This crux is fun and tricky, and once you're through: there's still one more really thin move to the chains.  Like Tyler's other climbs here, bolt placements were well thought out.

A clean granite slab with intriguing movement and sustained difficulty the whole way. Blocky down low but clean up high. Looks like its going to be harder than it is, but as you keep climbing, just enough holds appear- keep your eyes open for them. Enjoyable liebacking at the top. 

Moonshine is a great climb for anyone especially 5.8 leaders because of well-thought out bolt placements.  One of the best sport climbs of its grade in the state.

Desperado is a harder variation to Moonshine, adding sequency moves through the steep blocky in the lower portion of the cliff.  The crux may be off the ground, or around bolt 4.  It joins Moonshine at the 6th bolt, taking in the exposed and cleanest rock on that route. 

  Like the other climbs on this cliff, bolts placements were well-thought out, making this a good choice for those looking for their first 5.9. 

  The face to the right is a 5.11 toprope problem.

Red River has 6 bolted routes overlooking Mallette Park, and one Trad climb. This crag is South facing and is climbable most of the year. Routes are listed from left to right:Prohibition party (it’s your birthday) 5.6Bandito (5.7)The Seam (5.12a/b?)Bounty Hunter (5.10c)Moonshine (5.8)Desperado (5.9)Unnamed-Top Rope Face (5.11)Gus (5.11+)There are bolted anchors on the top of all the climbs for easy top rope set ups. ****Some of the climbs need two ropes or a 60m!****

Description

Protection

Routes in Red River (Mallette Park)