Starts on a nice rail but soon transitions to crimps.

Bendin' Tendon

Tunnel Vision

Gladys's Blouse

Valley of Bones

Life Finds a Way

Lazarus 5.9

I like your sleeves they're Big

Whirled Peas

West Nile Virus

Upside Down Metronome

Shroud of Turin 5.10a

Too Much Bush

The DT Route

Either start on Tunnel vision or hike up onto the ledge.  Follow the bolts over the big hole.  Getting your feet over the gaping hole is the crux.  A great balance problem.  If you avoid using the crack on Tunnel vision down low the climbing moves are more funner, also if you avoid traversing around the gaping hole the moves are more funner, or you could follow everyone else and opt for the 5.8 version. Also a nice photo op.

Two Cruxes, First is pulling the overhang at the first bolt and second near the top.  Good movement with interesting features makes this a Big Rock Classic.

This line goes up the obvious crack to the right of Valley of Bones, up to the top of the rock and then traverses left to the final bolt of that route, continuing to the VOB anchors.  The crack is 5.9 and the face traverse is 5.10a.  The crack is awkward in more ways than one, but life finds a way.  I'm a huge fan of traverses, and the one on this route did not disappoint.

I find it hard to imagine that this hasn't been done before, so if it has message me with details of the ascent and we'll update the info.

4 bolts up the arete.  Balance problems with proud position.  Three cruxes.  The first crux is getting off the ground the second comes at the second bolt, you will be tempted to climb left, don't do it.  Instead high step left into the perfect triangle hold and stand up then do a foot swap (not enough room to match).  The Final crux is at the third bolt, get your feet high and start groping with your right hand for the secret hold.

A nice alternate start for Gladys's Blouse.  A bouldery traverse right to the second bolt then a exciting run out to get back on the Blouse.

A small bit of trickery will get you slightly off the ground which lends to an awkward overhead clip that you will wish you had waited until you climbed up 10 inches higher to clip. After that wander up and ever so slightly left on the easy ramp to the second bolt. Then traverse right a little bit and clip the 3rd bolt before tackling the bulge. You will want to climb a little right of the bolt to keep it in the 5.8 range and high step right will put your foot on the only foothold around. Continue up easier ground to the 4th bolt which hides until you are on it. A short steep section gets you to the top but the holds are positive. Long slings at the anchor recommended to reduce rope drag.

This tasty little line looks deceptively easy.  Follow the angling crack  up to an interesting mantle. Any beta i try to spew on this one would probably not help anyway.

Crux is the first 10 feet.  Route traverses left along the arete.  Staying on the left side of arete makes the climb significantly more sustained.  All of the clips can be made from reasonably good positions.

Route is mostly 5.5 difficulty, up until the crux, a short chimney above the the currently overwhelming blackberry bush, which earns it a 5.6. Up through the chimney and an easy, bouldery finish. (This route is barely climbable in it's current state; the bush needs to be removed).

This is a great route if you are just starting to lead sport! Easy moves with interesting features makes this a great beginner lead. Crux is going over the small overhang near the bottom.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Big Rock