P1. Locate a mellow corner with some large bushes that leads up to a hand crack about twenty feet up. Transition to the hand crack (crux), and climb up to a nice belay ledge (5.9).

P2. From the ledge, place some gear to the right, and slab up to a flaky traverse. Take the traverse to the end of the corner, and belay at a fixed nut under the roof (5.6).

P3. Undercling and jam out the roof. The crux is figuring out how to turn the corner to gain the 5.8 wide crack to the top. There is a nice belay on a ledge at a tree. It's a great pitch and is reminiscent of

Turf Spreader

on Cynical Pinnacle (5.11).

Enjoy the summit, and then easily descend by walking off the back side.

*The nut (and carabiner) at the 2nd belay were here when we climbed the route, along with some tat lower down. It appeared someone had bailed from this spot A VERY long time ago. The 1st and 3rd pitch were certainly FAs, as they required significant cleaning. We think that someone did the 2nd pitch from the easier right side and bailed.

The Horse Whisperer

Molar

Chisel Top

Disintegrator Crack

Wally World

Climb cracks and flakes to the right of

Wally World

. I did not take the left crack about 30 feet up, so I'm not entirely sure I did the right route. I ended up going right on a lower angled slab and up from there on broken terrain. Perhaps the crack on the left side would be harder and deserve another star.

This is one of the first pitches encountered here. Search for an offwidth/chimney that separates the lower two fins of rock. Climb the offwidth and either escape after the chimney or continue up on more hollow flakes. Overall, this is not classic, but there are a few good grovel moves. According to Gillett's book, Chisel Top was originally the name of Horsetooth Peak.

Bernard's old guidebook mentions this crack as an unclimbed roof left of Triangulation Point and Quaking Aspen. There are actually 3 crack lines through this roof. I led the middle line and hung several times. Jake followed, doing the same. We did the FA of the crack, although it's waiting a free ascent. We will be back! It is likely 5.13.

It needs cleaning. There is a tower of shit and some loose holds at the start. There is a fixed nut in the roof, which will help make a free ascent happen. Hard and painful 180 degree roof moves lead to a sinker hand jam and a cruxy lip encounter. Then it's about 5.10 wide/fists/hands to the top.

We may add a hand drilled anchor at the top, because the current configuration isn't great for working the route. Technically, these routes (and Sandbeach Rocks) are all in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Wally World climbs a nice hand crack in a splitter corner. There are several bushes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Kinickinick Crags