Varnished vertical face climb with sustained, thought-provoking movement.

Richard Parker

no cap

Dross

Insubordinate

Artie The One Man Party

The Girlfriend Route Direct

The Godfather of Soul

Angry Johnny

Chalk A Lot, Shake

Bullfrog

Standin On A Corner

Negative 29

God Save the Queen

Fontainebleau Heron Addict

Wriggler

The Filth and the Fury

Avulsion

Sauce

Special Dark

Om On The Range

Burning Tree

Slabalanche

Payday

Muddy Waters

Skull Fracture

Spontaneous Baby Consumption

Boss

Aqua-Vulva

Get On Up

Lost Teva Crack

Choss

The Runnels Route

Sugar Brown

The Black Knight

Sleepwalker

Cleon Jones

Atlas Shrugged

Infinity Slab

Churlish

Lizard Man

Swamp Thing

Mulva

Route Canal

Unknown chimney

Perchance

Cold Sweat

Shiva's Lunchbox

Gloss

Contact High

Mr. Glass

Sex Machine

Moss

[Redacted]

Mental Quicksand

The Soda Special

Circe

Unlicensed Nuclear Accelerator

Unknown, 50' L of Standing on a Corner

Mannish Boy

Ricky Baker

Tech Sergeant Chen

Cherry Twist

Fronthand Backhand

Safety Dance

Verticalish face climb split by an obvious mid-way ledge.  

Featured rock leads to a steed arete with big pockets. Turn the difficult arete and enter the striking dihedral. A stance with a crack in the back is followed by a final crux before the anchors.

Pocketed start to more tenuous climbing in a shallow dihedral.  Others don't think the route is all that great, but I like it.  Cool hourglass pocket for your index finger, if you can find it.

Stemming up a dihedral to technical edging on a slabby blunt arete.  Shares anchors with Churlish.  Water/raft start.

While not a classic this route adds another 5.10 to the canyon.  The route is a nice puzzle and safe.  The final move is a bit sandy. 

  This route was put up in memory of ex-NAU student Artie Bresina who died in a plane crash in Wisconsin on May 2, 2000.

Climb a low angle arete to some steeper face moves.

Begin in the same spot as Mulva but go up the arete 10 feet to the left.  

  Shares anchor with Mulva.

Climb up a right leaning crack.  At the top, step right to a nice rest atop the pillar.  Then up a couple moves to a left-facing corner & some good pro, then continue up the corner past a nice hidden horizontal to the chains.

The bottom of this route is at least 3 stars, but the top is not as nice.  Work up a few surprisingly steep & fun moves to gain the patina face.  Work up through great rock (first crux) to easier ground.  Continue up through lighter rock to a scoop.  Work up & right out the scoop (second crux) to a ledge.  Head slightly left to a bolted anchor.

Vertical face climb with a nice mix of pockets, edges and jugs.  Water/raft start.

A fun warm-up.  Shady early in the morning and sunny before noon.  Half-way up, don't get suckered out left by a bolt; stick with the bolt line on the right.

Originally conceptualized as two pitches, Negative 29 is best done as one rope-stretching pitch, climbing through one of the largest scoops in the canyon!  

  Dry start on the isolated, small rocky beach and venture up the excellent dark-grey stone. Put your skills to the test on side-pulls, smears, crimpers, mantle-ish moves, and more. A rest ledge that hosts the anchors follows (anchors are a couple feet to the left). The climb to this point is reportedly 5.11+, but should be done to warm-up for what follows: the SCOOP!  

  Get your stem on to surf the progressively overhanging crack and impeccably smooth desert varnish to sequences on sinker-pockets. Unfortunately, choss guards the chains, reminding you that youre not actually in Heaven.

A short engaging route that is always in the shade.  5 bolts up a slightly overhanging face and flake system.  Very bouldery and powerful.  Across from Atlas Shrugged.

This route is a very beautiful and interesting line. It's a mostly super fun slabby climb so you will probably love it or hate it. This climb's features and movement pushed my conception of what sandstone slab could be. In other words it blew my mind so hop on  Start with a mantel into a seat big enough to lace up in. Clip the first bolt and move up and right to engage the techy and committing slab sequences (5.11) to a stance below the bulge. Use some good pockets and probably some small sloped rails to pull over the bulge (12c) and reach a couple little amazing quarter sized iron protrusions. From here the climbing is easy and fun to the top on varnish and rails.

Way harder than it looks, and quite unique.  Interesting feature climbing on this less than vert face with some great pockets thrown in.  Get ready to push, pull, stem, smear, and wriggle.  This climb may require some scrubbing, especially after a rainstorm, as it drains part of the enormous Infinity Slab.  Water/raft start.

A good route that climbs through a slight overhang and rolls over onto a slab.

Starts in the sandy alcove between Mental Quicksand and Swamp Thing.  Climb the flake and stem the chimney for the first 4 bolts to a jug. Pull onto the face and be prepared for thin crimps and delicate feet.  Get prepared for the crux encounter at bolt 8, but don't be fooled as the rest of the climb to the anchors is no gimmie. This is a thin crimpy route that is very technical.       As I have stated before at WW, this is a new route and the holds can still be a bit crispy.  I cleaned a bunch, but it will need more traffic especially if different beta is being used for feet.  

Great crimping on very good rock. The holds are like sharp little chocolate bars.

A short, slopey route that gets you to the base of The Scoop Nazi.

Slab climb to a stance with a high first bolt, followed by big pockets up black streaks. A mediocre ledge then traverses right toward a steep crack in a corner, before a small dihedral leads you into the final slab finish.

Alternate exit up an easy slab climbable with a pack on your back.  Puts you on a spacious belay ledge just a few feet away from the chimney rap anchors.  Hopefully, this route will save some wear and tear on the fixed ropes.  At the roof which splits the slab at 2/3 height, it's recommended to pull onto an obvious pillar to the left (super-easy) rather than disturbing an obvious and easily-avoided triangular block under the roof which refused to be pried loose.

This route is just like the bar...sweet, salty and straight up satisfying.  This route starts just left of Special Dark.  Head up 3 bolts and tackle crux #1.  Get a rest before tackling the bulge and then another small rest before the diagonal left crimp redpoint crux. Power through many small crimps to the top of the patina where you transition to the headwall.  Easier climbing for the last 2 bolts to the anchors.  The route does get a bit close to the crack of Muddy Waters, but never felt the desire to use the crack.  

A really cool start up a bolted arete leads to a finger crack.  Follow this up & left, then up right past a bolt to another finger crack, which leads to some insecure face climbing past bolts to the anchor.

The quintessential varnished edging route in East Clear Creek. The first half of the route is characterized by white micro edges and high steps, followed by a steeper pumpy finish.   Look for the image of the White skull on the wall in the lower half of the route.

A route of many styles, shapes, and angles.  This route is a crash course in winslow wall style.  For best belay have belayer move over to the pod on climbers right (lets you see the climber).

Nice pockets and sidepulls to a tricky finish.  Shares anchors with Sauce.

Another great scoop route.  This one starts just right (up-stream) of Mulva.  A thin face move (hence the cheater stones) leads to the first scoop.  Work up through this, then 2 more scoops to the chains.   

  There is a second pitch that was added later, but I don't personally recommend it.  It is 5.12-ish and not bolted very well (IMHO), and we both thought it was scary.

East Wall. Rt side of obvious brown wall, to the right of Sex Machine. Climbs detached feature to a seam. Technical face climbing up seam to anchor. Good route.

This crack is nice & steep for the grade.  Climb up to the overhanging crack, then jam & face climb up to the anchor.

Scaly rock at the bottom quickly leads to interesting sidepulls.

Amazing features.  May need some scrubbing, as it is rarely climbed.

Tricky section around bolts 3/4. Then eases up significantly to a mega boulder problem finish.

None shall pass the crux.  Amazing features and rock quality.  Water/raft start.

Good 12- and great addition to the northeast wall.  Crimpy climbing on positive edges all the way up.  Balancy and techy.  

Start up slabby face, then fun moves up steep face.

Obvious varnished face Lt of Rt leaning crack on the East Wall across from the  "Lunch" rock. Awkard move onto slab to a sustained, crimpy face. Sustained and very fingery. Excellent. Hard.

180-foot, 25-bolt slab extravaganza starting on a small beach and ending on top of a big buttress featuring a natural bathtub. The top of this climb is just a short distance (via hike/scramble) to the rim and the Sunset Trail.  Rappelling the Infinity Slab provides convenient access to the water-start climbs in the corridor. Climbing the Infinity Slab is a fun and relatively easy way to exit the canyon. Mid-way anchors allow the route to be rappelled with a single 60m rope, and also allow the climb to be broken into two halves if you’re lacking the requisite number of draws to climb from bottom to top in a single stretch.  

Steep slabbing which shares top anchors with Insubordinate.  Raft/water start. 

Varnished, verticalish face climb accessible via a short rappel from the mid-way anchors of Infinity Slab.  Shaded in the morning; bakes in the sun in the afternoon.   

In the grotto to the Rt of the prominent pilar leaning against the wall on the east side....down a bit from The Winslowner. ( Proabably have to get wet to access).   Totally in the shade. Not visible until at the base of the route. . Gently overhanging thin holds to a biggish cruxy move out left. Reach Rt to sidepulls, high step and stand up.    GREAT Route!!    Easier finish..

This route is super fun and one of the better "scoop routes" in a place known for them.  Stemming though the second scoop is wild!   

  Up and right on a short slab, then straight up through the first scoop, then up and left through the second scoop (crux) to a chain anchor.

Pockety start to funky moves in the “canal” above.  This climb may require some scrubbing, especially after a rainstorm, as it drains part of the enormous Infinity Slab.  Water/raft start.

The best route in Winslow? You decide. 

  Blank-ish, wide-ish stemming. Cramping hips await. 

  Please post a comment if you know the name of this route.

Interesting moves entering and exiting an enormous scoop.  Shares anchors with The Black Knight.  Water/raft start.

Goes almost all the way to the top of the James Brown wall, following great patina edges.  

  CAUTION: YOU NEED A 70M ROPE TO LOWER OFF THIS ROUTE! Tie a knot too. Its a stretcher. Also a stick clip for the first bolt would be nice

This route is always shady.  Start up high on a ledge and wander past many bolts to the chain anchor.

This nice route is rarely climbed.  Stem up & out the cave to a nice left-angling crack to anchor.

Tall face climb sharing start with Safety Dance and rising to the right of the obvious dihedral. Thin tech crux halfway up followed by easier, but engaging, climbing to the top.   

Ninety vertical feet of crimps and edges.  The route starts with interesting pinches and a black patina face. The upper half follows a left leaning weakness that provides an occasional pocket. 

  This route is in the same vein as 'Standin On A Corner' and 'Bro Job'.

A short but sustained incredibly tenuous, technical route. The only discernible features are seemingly etherial; like a light breeze could knock you off. Sometime in the 2000s a log bent the first hanger flat So this route should be stick clipped or TR from the Fontainebleau Heron Addict anchors.

MQ is a 2 pitch line just left of Avulsion on the black varnished face.  The 1st pitch goes at 12a/b and is 5 bolts.  A little spicy, but all the falls are safe!  The 2nd pitch requires a couple of cams, but otherwise is bolted.  The grade for the climb in 1 single pitch is 12c.  

Climb up an easier ramp to a stance.  Stem out the slot, then up the nice corner (thin gear) to a ledge up high in white, not-as-good rock.  Traverse left 20' or so, with surprisingly decent gear, to the anchors of Chalk A Lot, Shake.

Beguiling pockets to a tricky finish.  Water/raft start.

Short but amazing.  A collection of incredible features including runnels, pockets, jugs, and a mini-ring from which the anchors are clipped.  Raft/water start. 

Nice little route, about 7-8(?) bolts. A moderate as far as the Winslow wall goes.  

  Start from side of creek, piling rope in a dry pothole. Go up and right onto tricky face, move back left and gain no hands rest. Pull bulge at the top and mantle onto ledge with anchors.

A super route with a great crack in a scoop sandwiched between 2 fun faces.  Start up the face past 3 bolts to a nice rest in the huge scoop.  Climb up & right through the scoop via a fun, steep crack, then up & left past 3 more bolts to the anchor.  Depending on water levels, one may need to belay from across the creek.

Technical, less-than vert climb surmounting two ledges.  "R" rating for the potential to break an ankle falling onto the first ledge.  (Another bolt will probably be added.)

Start with some thin slab moves (5.10ish) to a high first bolt. Move left to the arete, then power through steep sandy jugs over a bulge. Cop a rest on a little ledge, than continue up the bulging arete above through some thinner moves (crux). Finish on cool black patina. This route has cool movement but lower rock quality than most routes at WW. In particular, watch for one large loose jug in the first overhang, and one large loose bit of patina up high. And watch for sand all over the damn thing.

Sculpted pockets up flawless stone to a bouldery crux which comes like a slap to the face.

Tall face climb on the left side of the obvious dihedral. Fragile rock in places, but generally good and solid if you don't stray far from the bolt line. Close bolt spacing, but that's kind of nice if you are climbing out with a pack on your back at the end of the day.  

Description

Location

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Routes in East Side