Take a ride on the old grey mare, but don't take her for granted, she still has a lot of kick: Starts below, just slightly left of arête up easy section to first bolt, then commit to moving right and using arête and features on face right of arête. Sweet, thin and balanced moves lead along arête then to crux 5th bolt and rest ledge then sweet bulge with juggy,exposed finish. Great route, fun the whole way.

Old Grey Mare

The Godfather

Symmetry

Antigravity

BattleAxe

Sweet Singularity

Crack Humper

Torreoncito

Chicken Fingers

Belly Beans

Heckle and Jive

Asymmetry

Linedance

Moonwalk

Differential Equations

Last Chance

Bat Ass Crack

Rabid Snake

Tiny Dancer

Between chicken fingers and asymmetry is a mostly moss covered wall. This line goes up a mostly clean crack up and right into a large flake. start is bouldery with smeary feet and insecure hand to place first piece. after that easier, a little sand but will clean up. a fun, short warm up for the area. the flake is good fun and easier than it looks with a juggy finish. Rap off.

Start rattley fingers with insecure movement, crux in first 10 feet, then gradually gets easier. Good pro.

Obvious beautiful splitter crack on right portion of crag. Wonderful pure crack climbing.

Thin, balancy sequences of crimps up good rock. Continuos, requires some endurance.

25 ft to the right of battle axe and 50 feet left of Chicken fingers is a featured wall, you'll see it there. Great rock, mixture of horizontal seams/rails and intermittent shallow finger cracks. crux getting to 3rd bolt but quite consistent at grade.

Angling fist crack to start, into awkward pod then finish on flake. A bit loose on top. Fun route

Getting through the thin crack up high is difficult. We aided it but it would go free with hard tips and fingers. The first part of route to a pod is not too difficult; center very difficult then the last third of route where it goes left on a rail is exposed and has some brittle rock next to great rock (pro is solid).

Obvious dihedral on left portion of wall. split by thin crack, beautiful line on good rock. thin fingers and stemming. most of climb is 10+, crux is 5 feet of bouldery movement that you can aid through by using the bolt at the crux if necessary.

Crux is pulling over steep start. Fun route, good pro.

Just right of Sweet singularity. Crux is first two bolts. Steep start, trick is sorting out multitude of holds for the best ones. Surprisingly good rock for the area. First half steep and sporty, second half fun 5.9+ trad on good rock.

Starts on ledge, angles right then straight up convoluted but well protected crack.

Stem past the first Bombay to reach a stance below a second Bombay corner. Tackle this short squeeze before ramping up twin seams with stemming to another resting stance. An overhanging hand crack trends left into a finishing chimney. Deceivingly good!

Work up to the top of the ledge with micro gear; the moves here aren't hard but the micro gear placement may get you a little heady (PG-13 but not hard). Once on the ledge, make a boulder move, which can feel harder than 5.9 (depending on how you piece it together) to get established in the crack systems. Work up and into the great hands crack to the left. Follow it up through the squeeze exit to a two bolt anchor with chains above a ledge to the right. Don't miss the nice seam in the back of the squeeze for good finishing protection.

Middle crack of the x,y,z crack trifecta.

Starts nice crack then into thin 15 ft chimney. Chimney is a lot of work, especially if you are big. Good pro in the bag of the chimney then pull bulge and continue on nice fingers, tight hands to top. Rap off.

P1: easy start on good pro to awkward short chimney to ledge and first bolt. Go up chimney/arete on chossy rock but easy climbing and bolts to anchor.   P2: Past 2 bolts angled traverse past low angled slab to dark black open book. The book is the crux pull buldge to top. Descent is rap from top if 70 meter rope can reach P2 belay, if not go to one of bolts on P2 then short rap to anchors and a 3rd rap to ground.

Left crack of short face split by 3 wide cracks. 

Around the corner right from chicken fingers but before DE is an overhung jagged crack going to a roof. Strenuous, very good rock. If you want to finish just below the roof, the rating goes at 11a and there is a single bolt which you can back up with a bomber nut to TR. Climbing past roof is the really serious part at solid 5.12: Fingers and crimps over roof. Rap off.

This is a crack in center of wall, from wide fingers to chimney. Starts on easy crack to wide roof. Step on the mass of the roofs lips above, not on the edge.

Work up to the top of the ledge with micro gear; the moves here aren't hard but the micro gear placement may get you a little heady (PG-13 but not hard). Once on the ledge, make a boulder move, which can feel harder than 5.9 (depending on how you piece it together) to get established in the crack systems. Follow the fingers to broken rock seam up to ledge, followed by an excellent fingers finish. If the chunky rock in the middle section gives you strife, you can easily reach left and place "bomber" hand sized protection in the hands crack of Moonwalk. Shares two bolt anchor with Moonwalk - on top ledge, to the left when finishing.

A collection of stellar crack climbs, some with a few bolts. These were all done ground up. Rock quality is good, scenery is superb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Anti-Crag