Hard compression on opposing edges in a low roof. Start right hand in an incut slot, left on a flat edge. Use tension and foot tricks to reach good holds in a cleft.

Don't Peace Me Out Yo, Jimmy Simmons

Black Roof

The Black Hole

Anti Matter

V4 (left of jimmy)

Flat Black

This is the v4 listed in the guide, on the same Boulder as “don’t peace me out yo jimmy simmons”. I started with a left hand pocket, right hand on a sloper, and right foot out right. Move up right to a pocket, then big blind move up and left with the right hand again.  Unclear to me if I started this problem correctly or not. The guide suggested v4, I put more effort into this problem than Anorexic so I’m not sure. If any one has more details please comment and I’ll change accordingly. 

Begin with crimps on a flake low in the cave and make a long pull to the mail slot, then another long move to good holds in the cleft. Pull through to an elbow-scraping topout.

Two problems begin at a good pocket and a dish near the right side of the roof. The Black Hole starts with left hand in the pocket. Make a move up to a crimpy pinch, then head left on edges and pockets in the weakness till you can punch it to the mail slot. Finish left on the moderate problem.

Start on undercling and crack under left side of roof, make a big move into the seam then traverse right finishing out Flat Black

Start as for black hole, but reach up with the left hand and then climb right through continously hard moves to the lip.

This roof, stained black by campfire soot, sits right off the trail just a couple minutes out from the parking lot. The obvious left-right weakness gives rise to three of the hardest problems at the Draw: Flat Black, The Black Hole, and Antimatter, all of which require steep, hard pulls on very small holds. Another weakness on the roof's left side houses an unnamed, easier problem that's worth doing.

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Routes in Black Roof