Moab Rim Tower is a Navajo Sandstone spire, detached from the main wall of the Moab Rim. There are actually 2 routes on the tower. The original, thought to have been established by Jimmy Dunn, shares a starting pitch with this route, then climbs a crack system left of Requiem. It is mid 5.12, with a soft, face climbing crux on bad bolts at the top of the spire. The pitches below that are ok, but not what you would write home about.

Requiem  follows the crack and face up the front of the tower. It is very exposed and is a beautiful line. Unfortunately, the last pitch is on fryable rock and despite its "Redrock" looks, is of questionable character. To large degree this is to be expected as it is Navajo, not Wingate. Moab RIm Tower is probably the tallest of the Navajo Towers in the Moab Area. Josh and I established the route this fall, but the fixed pro was placed in the past.

Other than Castleton in Spring, when the fields are green and there is still snow on the La Sals, I would have to say this is the most scenic climb I have done it he desert. The views are just beautiful.

Pitch 1 = Climb up and left passing a bulgy slab on soft rock. The crack is quite soft near the top, but is not difficult. But be careful. A fixed anchor exists on the next ledge. 5.11-, 60 feet

Pitch 2 = Climb the crack above the anchor on relatively good rock, passing a small roof on fingers. Tunnel through and pop out on a perfect belay ledge with a fixed anchor. 5.10, 75 feet

Pitch 3 = Climb up and left to reacha finger crack. Ascend this througha bulge, then gain a bit back on a slabby section. Mover further on to a dihedral and arete doing technical and pwoerful moves on mixed ground. Your on pretty good rock here and the pro keeps you safe, but its very difficult climbing. Exit to a ledge on technical face climbing on the arete. 5.12+, 110 feet

Pitch 4 = From the most exposed ledge in the desert, from which you feel you could step off and land in the Colorado 1000 feet below, follow face holds to the summit. This pitch was not redpointed as we continued to break holds. They look solid and if they were on Potash, where they are protected from the elements, this would be a hyperclassic bit of desert climbing. As is, its 5.10 A0. You can, with some stretching and a move here and there, you can aid through on excellent protection. There is a stinger in its tail though; the last 25 feet is not as difficult as the rest, but its questionable rock and is 5.10-. For those wondering, we feel the grade would probably be 12c if you could redpoint it without breaking a hold and weighting the rope. 5.10, A0, 80 feet

Rappel the route on a single 70 meter cord. Thats a seventy, as in longer than a sixty. Be very careful on the rap of the crux pitch as it is a stretcher.

Requiem

Super Seam

Super Chimney

Baby Huey

Kane Creek Spire

Super Seam follows the obvious seam strait up the wall from the Super Chimney. It ends at an anchor 75 feet above the pillar where the seam deteriorates.

Lean across from the pillar and clip the bolt, then pull onto the main wall. Do a few moves on Peckers to another bolt (helping to alleviate the factor two-ness). Continue on with peckers and the odd Lost Arrow type pin, with an occasional cam. Another stud helps the transition to the second crack. A few more pecker placements and you are re at the anchors.

This route, though only 5.10+, should not be attempted by those who are near their limit at that grade. The falls are not long but if you take one you will hit something... one side or the other of the chimney.

P1 - climb a soft crack to a ledge, then into the chimney on ruble. Belay in the back of the chimney at the ledges highpoint.

P2 - climb up a crack for 3 or so feet, then onto a loose ledge, then begin the stem fest. Clip about 7 pieces of fixed gear for the next 100 feet. Some pins, some  bolts. Stem onto the pillar and do some easy moves, then a fun arete move to reach the summit. A chain anchor is now on the top.

Pitch 1: Climb up the crack through a small roof (5.10 C1) for about 90' to a nice ledge at the base of a semi-rotten pillar. P2: Start up the right facing corner behind and above the pillar C1 up for 50' when you can tension traverse to the right to a thin splitter, aid until the crack opens, then free climb up to a two bolt anchor (80'?). P3: This can be done as one long pitch or split up. Start up a 3-4" crack passing a wider pod and then the crack even seams out a couple of times. Head straight up passing a drilled angle and into the crack again. This is where the rock starts getting really soft. Get a piece in as high as you can and traverse 15' left to a right facing dihedral. Follow this up for another 30' to the top. At one point near the top I drilled a pecker hole to pass some really rotten rock, but I've been told this loose rock has been trundled. 2 bolt anchor(130'). Be sure to hike up to the true summit for the spectacular view in all directions!

Not sure on the name of this one but gave it a name so it's not another "Unnamed Tower".  If you know the history let me know and I'll change it.

The route starts on the South side of the tower.  Climb up to the ledge on the SW side and spot the bolts.  Climb some slab up and right past the first bolt to a second bolt where the route gets steeper.  Continue up placing some cams on the way.  Summit was two bolts if I remember correctly.

I've talked to a few people that were calling this Arnold Ziffle, however if you look in DR3 you'll see that the description for Arnold Ziffle doesn't match this at all.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Moab Rim Trail Towers