A few bolts have been retro-added (by 1st ascent Myhre ). Now the 1st pitch (crux) is

much

better protected. And there are now 2 bolted anchor/raps (separated by a short 4th class ledge walk). 2nd pitch overhang is best part.

Ms Tremendous

Mr Tremendous

Pimp Juice

Lazy Boy

The Tree Route

This route is tremendous.

Some great slab climbing

There is some route finding, trending right past a couple of bolts, traverse more left up a ramp to a corner where you may be lured into a right facing corner with a fixed pin (10d), pass more to the right side staying on the face, make some steep face moves up an arrete to a belay. Or I have also stayed on the right side of the arete using a nice finger crack till you come to more bolts with thin face crux getting to anchor.1st pitch is about 115'

Move the belay diagonally left over sandy bench to next buttress on it's left end. There is a bolt on the slab above marking the route. Some good cracks, and then up and over a wave of granite with hidden holds, There is some confusion here, you can go straight up past a bolt, some chicken heads, a thin crux and 4 bolts up to the anchor, or right on more horizontal crack/flakes, pass another old bolt and end up on the far right end of slab, get back on the slab to pass 2 more bolts up to the anchor.

2nd pitch is about 130'

Cruxy moves right off the ground lead up the quartz streaked face

Lazy Boy is the most striking line in the Bro's Nest, a stacked area of hard climbing on the west (uphill) side of Lower Eight Mile Buttress.

Start by avoiding a bit of moss, and entering a section of clean undercling, finger, and hand cracks through a series of overhangy features.  This will deposit you below the eponymous flake.  There's a picture in the new Kramar book that shows a dude headed up the right side of this, which looked doubtful to me.

I headed up the left side, and found great holds, as well as a somewhat humiliating (and awesome) mantle onto the lazy boy.  It's fun to this point, but this upper crack is what you'll remember forever.

The upper crack is a long, pumpy, overhanging hand crack, with occasional finger locks, and stems out to sometimes good edges and smears.  I found the rock to be a little dirty in the upper crack, either through infrequent use, or maybe because it catches runoff from the cliff above.  One trip up there ought to clean out most of the dust.

Maybe those Leavenworth boys and girls are used to it, but I thought that this was one of the best cracks I have ever climbed.  No single move will stop you, but it's an awful lot of overhanging jams to the top.

It's no Astroman, but this route has a couple things going for it.   The best things about this route are that the rock is impeccable, the line follows the major weakness in the cliff (there's an elegance in this, when it happens, I think), it takes good gear at the 5.6 parts, and you get to climb for a good long while.  Except for the bleached crack at the top, the moves are fun.

Pitch 1 (5.6): Follow the huge left facing dihedral.  Find the line of least resistance, with a few possibilities.  The pitch ends to the right.  Use long runners, or carry a winch to bring the rope up at the belay.  There are some cool moves in an odd, low-angle chimney at the bottom, and a fun mantel/step up to the right.  Belay less than one rope-length above at a modern rap station.

Pitch 2 (5.easy/J1): With just a few moves of fifth class climbing, make your way through the low angle section to the base of the next pitch.  If memory serves me, this is a traditional anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.6): Fifth class pretty much the whole way, with a bleached, wide, low-angle 5.6 crack at the top. Belay at the trees - a 48" sling makes for an easy belay set-up.

It may be possible to do this in two pitches with a 70m, but communication difficulties, rope drag, and length will conspire against you.  The three pitch split-up feels natural.

I haven't done any routes above, but this is a great way to access the upper cliffs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Eight-Mile Buttress, Lower