Starts up the chossy looking chimney feature with some fun stemming and chimney moves to a large bulge. Most of the way up the climbing looks harder than it is but does require some physical moves. The crux comes at the overhanging section but is protected nicely. A couple slab moves and a final mantle get you to the chains.

In It To Win It

Mach 5

Little Jack

Boom Shakalaka

Gyppo

Dogfish

Melted Soup

Patience

Good Intentions

Vajazzling

Dogfishhead

Quicklime

Pink

23 Red

Five Minute Solution

Triple Shot

The Shocker

One Beer

Bad Kitty

Filthy Lucre

Chert edges down low to sidepulls in a funky groove up high.  Not sure why the book only gives it 1 star...better than Dogfish Head, IMO.

Start on deep runnels on a steep slab which lead to a short overhanging section. Nifty edges and pockets lead to a ring anchor.  

  Shares anchor with "Five Minute Solution" to the right (corner).

Bolted on lead by Jeff Baldwin, according to the Limestone Bible guidebook

Begin with a high-ish first bolt (5.9 climbing to get to it), then get into the short-lived but stout and very cool crux.  Once you are through the flake section it is over and you are rambling through some scrambly looseness up high.

Dogfish is the short version of Dogfishhead.  Route traverses over to finish below the orange headwall at the Little Tank anchor.Route climbs up compact limestone through a couple of narrow chert bands down low.  Finish up the smooth, gray goodness with enough features to get by at a reasonable grade.Steep slab climbing without the crux of the orange headwall.

Popular as a single pitch route from the ground.Climb up just left of the flat face start of Pink.  Great rock and nice moves at around a 5.8 level makes for a nice single pitch.  Two bolt anchor to single 10mm (30kN rated) ring.Above the first pitch, take care with loose rock especially if there are people below.The second pitch climbs up good rock at the start.  Just past the third bolt, climb up blocky holds angling left across the shallow arete.  Up the wide-ish gully and transition over to the final narrow face just to the left, following the line of bolts and better rock.  Finish at the bottom of a flat face where the rock turns from gray to brownish red.  Two bolt anchor.  Longest pitch at around 80 feet.Third and shorter pitch climbs up and follows a short micro corner feature up left, then back up right.  Finish on easier ground past a break in the wall, then up to a shallow ledge traverse right, then up to the anchor.  Pitch is around 50 feet long.Fun climbing but be super careful past the first pitch with loose rock.  Recommended as a single pitch route at around the 5.8 level.

Interesting start, great movement, edges, side pulls, and decent feet the whole way. 

Aptly named route - climb it and see for yourself! Name and length info based on Limestone Bible guidebook.

My favorite route in the upper canyon/Redbud Canyon. Starts with less than vertical, nicely featured, and clean stone that leads to a great, although a bit sharp, steep crux finish.

This route starts with a cool undercling through an arch feature about ten feet off the ground. Higher up, traverse under a roof from right to left, bypassing it on the left side.

Cruiser climbing on mostly huge holds.  Good route and good intro to the grade.

A great obvious line that catches the eye, loaded with awesome features. The climbing is engaging throughout and the bolts are just where you want them and then some, I am told.(3 bolts were added by the FA party)

This is a good route that follows the cracks in the corner.

A route that has a little bit of it all.  Start beneath a scoop in sculpted gray limestone.  Technical moves on polished stone lead you out and left through a steeper section.  Continue up the bolt line to a two bolt anchor.  You can climb multiple pitches above this, but it is a high quality pitch in its own right.

Blue line is Triple Shot and red line is One Beer

Bad Kitty starts at the second pitch seam that runs across this wall.  So...not at ground level but above the first pitch of Pink.Start above Pink.  Scramble just right past the bush into the back of the shallow corner.  Scramble up lower angle ramp to low angle chimney slot.  Climb up then slightly right up blocky holds.Take care with loose rock especially from the anchor on Pink to the back of the wall.  Anchor is two bolts connected by a chain.  Lower hanger has a single ring for lower off or rappel.  Vertically oriented anchor in the style of the Fixe "traditional anchor".  Single rappel ring is a stainless 10mm ring rated at 30kN or higher.Options to gain the ground:  Rappel back to Pink anchor, or, Vajazzling anchor then descend from either of those anchors to ground (take care especially if someone is below or climbing or staging to climb either route).  Or Lower back to Pink anchor or Vajazzling anchor.  Unknown how long a rope would be needed (70m or more) to rappel to the ground from the Bad Kitty anchor.  Take care if attempting to lower to the ground (belayer/lowerer should stay tied in to rope at ground or Pink anchor).Fun route on solid, blocky holds.

A variety of interesting features including a few crack sections and some really good face moves.

This area is packed with single and multi pitch routes from 5.6 to 5.11.  The north side (south facing) is more prickly rock while the south side (north facing) is gray, well featured limestone with runnels and pockets. 

  The canyon runs east to west with the longer routes on the north facing side. 

  This area is shady and tends to be cooler climbing.  Count on about ten degrees colder than Mesquite for starters. 

  Some of the routes have loose rock (not that much traffic yet).  Take care and consider both belayer and follower wearing helmets especially on the multi pitch routes near the end of the Upper Canyon. 

  Fun spot and due to get more popular especially on account of quality routes and modest grades.   

  Current guidebooks are Bill and Misty's excellent Limestone Bible and Todd Goss' updated Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah (2015 edition).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Redbud Canyon