Laybacks, easy jamming, and a few solid stems on surprisingly solid and clean rock.

Llamas Ate My Homework

Llamas Don't Die, They Rollerskate

New Beginnings

Cheyenne’s Ex

Pigpen this here's the Rubber Duck

Mt. Crumbleton

Hot Rod Lincoln

Gunpowder's (not-so) Gold

Begin small finger crack, progress to horizontal seam (crux), face climbing above seam to top out. [5.10- option, at seam move left to reachy/balance moves and top out ontop of Gunpowder's (not-so) Gold.

Same start as Llamas Ate My Homework, then trend right towards obvious left facing corner. Tricky move or two to get into the corner, then solid laybacks and a few jams flow nicely through good, but dirty rock.

Climb the long Arete from bottom to top. Cruxes are mid-way and at the top. About half-way, layback then stem into a corner before traversing a couple feet right and mounting the arete then mantling your way onto the ledge.  Shortly after on a foot ledge, do a short dyno up left onto a bomber ledge, get a great left heel hook, then mantle your way up. A cruxy and balancy corner gets you to the top.

 This was climbed on a single strand rope self-belayed with a gri-gri. You should validate whether a 70m rope will work because the climb is quite tall.

Follow a series of cracks and side pulls, pull a short layback-type fun roof move off of a sharp edge, follow the arete to the top.

 This was climbed on a single strand rope self-belayed with a gri-gri. You should validate whether a 70m rope will work because the climb is quite tall.

 

Follow a series of chossy ledges with the occasional stem, trending leftward, ending just right of the left buttress.

Don’t allow anyone you like to be within 75’ of the base due to guaranteed rock, gravel, and dirt falls.

 This was climbed on a single strand rope self-belayed with a gri-gri. You should validate whether a 70m rope will work because the climb is quite tall.

Corner(ish) Crack located directly next to Gunpowder's (not-so) Gold. Climb dirty (and loose) crack to top out.

Blocky holds lead to a horizontal seam, heel hook the seam(crux) and work your way left through poor quality jugs (beware of loose rock) 

  Enjoy your view up top and of the local farms across the river. 

  Be careful up top, the public land quickly transitions into private land if you wander far enough into the woods at the top of the crag...A rusty airstream trailer with an assortment of strange looking large antennas has been spotted near the crag so BEWARE!

Rock quality ranges from fair-poor. Fantastically secluded, explore the base of the wall to find some sweet little caves. If you are looking to set up a TR, when you are facing the wall make a left and walk to the edge of the wall, there should be an obvious trail leading to the top. Most climbs are too tall for a 60-70m rope, so bring lots of static or webbing. Plenty of solid trees up top for natural anchors, and a variety of gear placements ranging from #3-4 range to #.75 range. If you are planning on leading a climb, check the quality of the rock, as what appears to be a beautiful jug can quickly turn into a watermelon sized hand weight.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little Gunpowder Falls Crag