Fun, easily protected crack right of

Es Muy Bueno

. This climb ends at the large block wedged on the ledge.

Western Farm Service

Black Magic Poodle

Golden Spike

Bye Crackie

Pass the Bucket

Red Brewster

Saddle Tramp

Hootenanny

Es Muy Bueno

Golden Poodle

Coyotes at Sunset

Eight Second Ride

High Noon

Right facing flake to face just to the right of Bye Crackie.

Start by stemming until possible to grab holds out right and pull onto the rock. Once on the rock climb up to a bulge which can be pulled directly or slightly to the left (easier). Higher, interesting face climbing on good holds leads to a steep finish with amazingly good holds. The route ends at a bolted anchor just where the angle starts to kicks back.

Lots of fun climbing on this with a few tricky moves down low and a slightly pumpy finish on incut holds.

Boulder up into a thin crack and pull a small overlap before getting established below a prominent bulge. Power over the bulge via some committing and strenuous moves to gain a jug and then continue up and left to the anchors.

A little steeper than the nearby routes which can perhaps make it feel a little harder for the grade.

This high-quality route was one of the very first bolted routes at the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, and to this day remains a popular classic.

Climb well-featured face to arete past six bolts utilizing the amazingly good holds that sprinkle this route. A classic and recommended route for the grade at this area.

The FA was originally done with 2 bolts, a few pieces and some tie-offs for plates; years later the original bolts were replaced, more bolts placed and an anchor added so that 5.7 climbers might better enjoy the route.

Pass the Bucket was climbed soon after Bye Crackie. It climbs the face between Golden Poodle and Coyote's at Sunset, finishing in a left leaning diagonal crack. Fun climb for practicing natural pro.

Red Brewster climbs the seam right of Western Farm Service. Familiarity of R.P.s and wires in oppostion are required to achieve "safe" protection. Named after a cheap Red Ale available back then.

This short troprope climbs the vertical face immediately right of

Eight Second Ride

. Fun movement that, like it's neighbor, is over all too soon.

Climb unprotected face up to a bolt, make the crux moves and then follow the left-slanting crack system to anchors atop

Golden Spike

. An alternate (and better) start is to climb the first portion of

High Noon

and then continue into the crack.

Originally done with RP's at the crux a bolt was added later by unknown parties to "tame" the crux.

Climb broken but easy rock to a bolt about 20' up (optional gear to 2.5" available), clip it, and then get stood up to confront the crux just past the second bolt - thin edges along a vertical seam. Once past the crux the holds get progressively larger and more incut as the bolts get spaced further apart. After clipping the last bolt head straight up to chain anchors atop the highest portion of the wall.

Well protected, with engaging moves on suberb rock which make this an often done climb on this popular wall; this would be the next logical step after leading the nearby

Bye Crackie

and

Coyotes at Sunset

.

This route, like it's neighbor to the right, is a local classic and a highly recommended route for the grade that provides fun climbing on mostly large holds up a vertical wall.

Start down and left from

Bye Crackie

and just right of

Golden Poodle

and climb broken rock to a bolt 20' up (optional gear to 2.5" available). From here the wall steepens and well-protected climbing on mostly incut patina plates and edges leads to anchors on a sloping ledge.

Boulder up to a high first bolt and then make a tricky series of moves (crux) along the rounded arete to gain the 2nd bolt, after which it's mostly jugs to the top. Enjoyable climbing that ends all too quickly - the fun may last for more than eight seconds, but not much more.

This seldom done route rarely sees any traffic, but would be an ideal warm-up, or route to do while waiting for the more popular lines on Coyote Crag to free up.

Climb a lower face past three bolts to gain a small stance below a bulge at the 4th bolt. Power over the bulge on somewhat hidden, but incut sidepulls and edges that get larger the higher you go. Above the bulge the angle turns to steep slab and the bolts become more spaced with a slight runout to the anchors.

Fun moves over the bulge but not as high quality as some of the surrounding routes - still worth a spin.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Coyote Crag